16 posts tagged "Elsa Schiaparelli"
When we set out to tell the story of 2011 by the numbers, one loomed especially large: 661,509, the record-breaking number of visitors who lined up, often for hours at a time, to see the Costume Institute’s Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (left) at the Met.
But it wasn’t just a banner year for the Met and the late, great McQueen; designers and museums forged a strong bond this year, one that looks likely to continue well into the next. Museums across the globe invited designers into their halls and the results have made for some of the best exhibitions in memory.
During Couture week, Hussein Chalayan opened a retrospective at Paris’ Musée des Arts Decoratifs, where next year, Marc Jacobs and his work for Louis Vuitton will take up residence. The City of Light also played host to Ralph Lauren and his collection of automobiles (it also now boasts an enormous new RL store and restaurant, one of the town’s new favorite spots for burgers). And Florence is the new home of the Museo Gucci, opened during Milan’s Spring 2012 week with all due fanfare, and a Blondie performance to boot.
In America, socials flocked to San Francisco for the opening of Balenciaga and Spain (which also traveled to New York) and to Dallas for The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier, which debuted earlier this year at Montreal’s Museum of Fine Arts. Just this month, Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte opened RODARTE: Fra Angelico, a show of the dresses their created for their June presentation at Pitti, at L.A.’s LACMA.
Farther afield, Dior went to Russia, where house jewelry designer Camille Micelli sent us this postcard, for Inspiration Dior, attended, naturally, by a lavish party. And the Netherlands continues to be a slightly off-the-radar destination for fashion’s cultural tourists. A retrospective of the work of Azzedine Alaïa is now on view in Gronningen, outside Amsterdam, and the capital’s contemporary-photo museum, FOAM, which hosted the likes of Jefferson Hack for a panel on What’s Next, which followed a retrospective of work by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin—one which eventually became the germ of their new career-spanning anthology, Pretty Much Everything.
Here in New York, the more traditional homes of fashion, like FIT’s Fashion Museum, were busy, too. The museum recently opened the first part of The Great Designers, including Armani, Dior, Givenchy, and McQueen, and plans to open part two in March. Chief curator and museum director Valerie Steele also worked with clotheshorse and collector Daphne Guinness on an exhibition of her own holdings—which, it turns out, Guinness keeps organized via computer database.
Next year, all eyes will be on Miuccia Prada for the next Costume Institute exhibition, Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada on Fashion. But before then, there’s a Louboutin retrospective in London to look forward to, on the heels of the shoemaker’s victory-lap 20th anniversary year. And WWD reports today that several fashion labels are taking a renewed interest in their own histories, too. Balmain is ramping up its archival holdings, and Chloé recently brought on an in-house archivist, in anticipation of a retrospective planned for its 60th anniversary next year.
In Manhattan, where a walk-in closet is a covetable luxury, finding the space to house over 50,000 garments and accessories is no small feat. Over the course of several years, that’s exactly what the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) has managed to do. Now, a hand-picked selection of looks are coming out of storage for two consecutive exhibitions, The Great Designers: Part One (opened yesterday) and Part Two, along with a pair of books to match (due out next year).
“For the general public it’s going to be the big names—Armani, Chanel, Dior—that are the attraction, but personally, I’m really excited about the opportunity it gave us to build out our contemporary collection,” Valerie Steele, the museum’s director and chief curator, said at the press preview of the Part One exhibition (co-curated by Jennifer Farley and Colleen Hill) this morning. Of the tomes, highlighting 500 looks by 100 designers from the twentieth century onward, Steele added, “I have wanted to do a book for the museum with Taschen for a long time, ever since they did a fantastic publication for the Kyoto Costume Institute.”
Both the exhibitions and books gave Steele a fun excuse to “shop”—two of the most exciting purchases are a black wool coat with delicate gold embroidery from Alexander McQueen’s Fall 1997 collection for Givenchy and a liquid silver Thierry Mugler mermaid dress from 1987. Part One features approximately 50 garments from several generations of designers. It was surprising to see how easily current looks by designers like Prada (a black and baby blue guipure lace and cotton frock from the memorable Fall 2008 collection) blended with early-twentieth-century pieces. The black Paul Poiret silk faille coat from 1908, trimmed with fine black and gold fringe that doubled for fur at a distance, is great for today’s pelt-wary. An Elsa Schiaparelli gown in black rayon, cut on the bias and with a swirling flower print, had an asymmetrical shoulder seen on many of the gowns in recent runway seasons.
The Great Designers, Part One at the Museum at FIT, Seventh Avenue at 27th Street. On view November 29 to May 8, 2012.
Elsa Schiaparelli And Miuccia Prada Are The Centerpiece Of Costume Institute Exhibit, Kanye On The Runway Again, A New Collaboration From Acne, And More…
The theme of the Costume Institute exhibition at the Met next year will be Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada: On Fashion. Baz Luhrmann has been announced as the exhibition’s creative constultant and designer for the May 7 benefit. [WWD]
Kanye is going to be on the runway again next month, but this time he’s performing for the annual Victoria’s Secret show. Miranda Kerr is also making her return to the show after being on maternity leave, along with fellow angels like Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Alessandra Ambrosio. [Vogue U.K.]
Acne has collaborated on a 28-piece collection with the Brit sculptor Daniel Silver, T reports. The “utterly cool” collection includes tribal animal prints and biker jackets. [T]
Jean Paul Gaultier and the chocolate factory? The designer has created a “one-off gold bar” for a French gold investment company, engraved with Gaultier’s name and a heart. The chocolate bar goes on sale October 14. [WWD]
Fendi’s New Designer Drive, Miuccia Prada And Elsa Schiaparelli Could Be The Next Met Stars, And More…
Now you can have your Fendi and drive it, too. As part of The Whispered Italian Grand Tour, a new Fendi project that includes a documentary about Italy’s craftsmen, the luxury brand created a special-edition Maserati. The designer car will make its debut at the 2011 Frankfurt Motor Show in September. [Vogue U.K.]
After the Met’s record-breaking Alexander McQueen exhibit, the Costume Institute has another fashion-focused show set to follow, WWD reports. Miuccia Prada and Elsa Schiaparelli could be the next subjects under the museum’s spotlight. [WWD]
Dasha Zhukova’s new magazine, Garage, caused a stir this week with its controversial crotch shot cover. The cover model, Shauna Taylor, says, “I would have been stupid not to be part of this project. Not one single person can ever say they gave birth through a Damien Hirst piece of art. I can [if I ever give birth].” [Page Six]
To celebrate the 40-year anniversary of Alice Waters’ famed Chez Panisse, the restaurant and Levi’s partnered with writers and artists like David Byrne, Sofia Coppola, and Dave Eggers to create a series of limited-edition T-shirts. Of course, the shirts are 100 percent organic cotton with “plantable letterpressed hang-tags.” [The Food Section]
There arguably couldn’t be a more perfect time for Stephen Jones to be in New York talking hats—what with the American fascination with fascinators (see Princess Beatrice, newly minted Internet meme) lingering from last Friday’s Royal Wedding. The natty milliner was in town for Monday night’s Met gala and to introduce his collaborative exhibit with the Victoria and Albert Museum, called Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones. The show, which arrives in New York City at the Bard Graduate Center this September, includes hats and headpieces from throughout time and all over the world, curated by Jones and the V&A’s Oriole Cullen. “It’s funny,” he said yesterday. “I realized there’s a hat in the show called Martian’s Claw from 1960 by Michael of Lachasse that’s just like Princess Beatrice’s but in sequins.” He made 25 hats for the wedding, and reports that Philip Treacy made 36. “It was the ultimate hat day, I guess,” said Jones, a bit wearily.
Hats is, fittingly, the ultimate hat show, but pulling it together was no easy feat. Jones and Cullen researched for two years, eventually sourcing the 250 pieces from 72 separate lenders along with the V&A’s extensive collection. The works shown range from a Coptic fez from 1100 A.D. to the pieces by the latest young British milliners, like Nasir Mazhar and Noel Stewart, from the aughts, nearly a millennium later. Hats is meant to give you a 360-degree view of the craft, with a re-creation of Jones’ first atelier and a section devoted to hat wearers. You can expect to be in the close presence of Very Important Headgear like Schiaparelli’s shoe hat from 1937—of which there are only two in existence—and one of Jackie Kennedy’s pillboxes, pulled in especially for the show’s American tour. (The shoe hat is top right; a flower-adorned 1955 Christian Dior veil by Mitzi Bricard is top left. One of Jones’ own creations, “Warped Perspective,” is abpve.) Jones and Cullen also like to connect the dots with a wink and a smile. To wit, you’ll be able to see Darth Vader’s helmet sharing a vitrine with a samurai’s, the likes of which directly inspired it. Perhaps the most unexpected piece, also exclusive to the stateside show, is Andy Warhol’s shaggy silver wig. “He really wore it in the spirit of a hat,” said Cullen. “It was a statement.”