42 posts tagged "Emilio Pucci"
With the haute couture, menswear, and Resort shows finally wrapping up this week, high summer is officially here—just in time for the fashion set to enjoy the long holiday weekend ahead. To celebrate, many will be taking off for vacation destination spots and breaking out their statement-making bathing suits for the shore or the pool. While there were plenty of crop tops, bikinis, and sporty rash guards in the latest pre-spring lineups, it was the sophisticated maillots (no cover-ups required) in the mix that really piqued our interest. Classic, flattering one-pieces turned up at Chanel, Dior, Dion Lee, and Bottega Veneta, while designers including Jason Wu, Emilio Pucci’s Peter Dundas, and the Cushnie et Ochs girls turned up the heat with sexy cutouts. Unfortunately, these water-ready numbers won’t be hitting stores until the new deliveries arrive this fall, but they’ll give us ideas for the balmy months ahead.
Beyoncé—superstar, tastemaker, Givenchy flame wearer—kicks off the U.S. leg of her Mrs. Carter Show World Tour in L.A. tonight. She already debuted a wealth of flashy wares in Europe, like custom costumes by The Blonds, David Koma, Dsquared², and Emilio Pucci. But, for her Stateside performances, Mrs. Carter is adding a few sartorial surprises. And she tapped emerging Israeli designer Alon Livné to make them.
The pair ignited their creative relationship back in February after Beyoncé’s stylists, Ty Hunter and Raquel Smith, attended the 27-year-old’s debut New York Fashion Week presentation. Smith reported back to Bey, who quickly fell in love with with one of Livné’s metal-embellished Pre-Fall gowns, and requested customized versions—in red—for her and her backup dancers to wear on the tour.
Based in Tel Aviv, where he owns two stores, Livné returned to New York earlier this month to show his Resort ’14 collection to retailers. And not long after his arrival, he got a call. “They asked me if I could do something special,” Livné told Style.com—the “they” being Beyoncé’s stylists, and her mother, Tina. “I said yes, of course.” There was one problem, though: he had nowhere to work. But when you’re designing for pop culture’s reigning queen, nothing is impossible. Beyoncé’s camp set him up in an office with an industrial sewing machine, and he got to it. “I think the fact that they were willing to help me make these dresses, and to give me a studio, was so amazing,” offered Livné. “I mean, it’s Beyoncé. She can go anywhere from Chanel to Givenchy and pick whatever she likes, and she helped me.”
The fruit of his labor is a scarlet corset sprinkled with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS crystals, the sketch of which debuts exclusively above. The look will serve as Ms. Knowles’ show opener this evening. Livné also made the star a printed gown with metal details, and a bevy of costumes for her backup dancers.
Not surprisingly, the Beyoncé connection has done wonders for Livné’s budding career. “Obviously, in Israel, it was huge, huge, huge amazing news,” he said. “Everyone was talking about the Israeli designer that dressed Beyoncé, the biggest star in the world.” But it’s helped him in New York, too—which is key, since he’s packing up his atelier and moving to Chelsea this summer. The designer, who interned at Alexander McQueen and worked with Roberto Cavalli before launching his dark, dramatic signature line nearly four years ago, just got picked up by Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. He’ll also put on a runway show at Lincoln Center this September. “I want to live my dream and work on the biggest stage that I can,” he said before catching his plane back to Tel Aviv on Thursday night. “So coming to New York is a dream come true.”
Bras outside the boudoir seem like a natural progression for a burgeoning season that oft abides by midriffs and swimwear. At Resort, designers are blurring the line between bedroom and warm-weather wares, giving tiny tops a bustier feel. Take, for instance, Jason Wu‘s balconette-meets-bandage bra (above, center), which he paired with matching botanical-print board shorts. “I’ve always loved these lingerie-esque looks, and I’ve always loved a little swimsuit for Resort,” offered Wu when asked about his belly-baring wares. “The lower-waisted proportion felt right, and there was almost like a surfer-ish attitude about it. And I think it’s a sexy place to bare,” he added. “You work very hard for it. So why not?”
Others, like Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs, offered a seemingly more conservative approach to the crème de la crop top. The pair showed a red pencil-skirt-and-elongated-blazer combo which, upon further inspection, reveals an itty-bitty top with an iteration of Cushnie et Ochs’ signature cutouts. At Versace (above, left), Donatella turned out a spearmint gingham top-let coupled with a playfully patterned pant. Meanwhile, Hervé Léger‘s Max Azria and Calvin Klein‘s Francisco Costa served up a sportier approach to the bra-turned-top by incorporating full-frontal zippers. The same sense of ease was seen at A.L.C. and Emilio Pucci (above, right), where banded bras seemed more staple than statement maker.
With her signature hair flip and authoritative pen, Suzy Menkes, who was appointed as the international fashion editor of the new International New York Times last Wednesday, epitomizes “one of a kind.” However, while there is, and always will be, only one Ms. Menkes, this summer, some ambitious bidders will have the chance to dress like her. On July 11, Christie’s will launch a twelve-day online auction of over eighty pieces from Menkes’ wardrobe, including a custom Chanel clutch boasting a gold “Suzy” in the place of the house’s double Cs, as well as vintage wares from Yves Saint Laurent (like a cocktail jacket from 1980 and an ivory pantsuit), Emilio Pucci, Ossie Clark, Christian Lacroix, Dior, and more. Menkes, who reportedly hasn’t purged her closet since 1964, says she initiated the auction because “…there is something sad about clothes laid in a tomb of trunks. They need to live again, and this auction provides the opportunity for them to walk out in the sunshine, to dance the night away, and to give someone else the joy that they gave to me.” While Ms. Menkes is, of course, priceless, most of the auction items will start at under 1,000 pounds.
Hedi Slimane sent out dresses that called to mind the “kinderwhore” fashion pioneered by Courtney Love and company during grunge’s nascent years. But the Saint Laurent designer wasn’t the only one who embraced baby dolls for Fall. At Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli updated the youthful silhouette with couture-level craftsmanship, while Emilio Pucci’s Peter Dundas and Undercover’s Jun Takahashi showed wispy lingerie-inspired takes on the trend. For proof that the abbreviated shape has legs off the catwalk, look no further than Alexa Chung, who can rock a mini like no other—those pins! Sky Ferreira, meanwhile, could’ve passed for Love’s sophisticated little sis in the sparkly Saint Laurent number she wore to the Met Gala.