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April 18 2014

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20 posts tagged "Emmanuelle Alt"

In Paris, A Varied Crowd Vies For The ANDAM

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Paris Vogue‘s Emmanuelle Alt, Colette’s Sarah Lerfel, Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon, and other fashion insiders—myself included—gathered at the Ritz in blazing-hot Paris today to cast our votes for this year’s ANDAM Fashion Award winner. Last year, the €200,000 prize went to Hakaan Yildirim. This year, Adam Kimmel, Anthony Vaccarello, Commuun, Jeremy Laing, Palmer/Harding, and Yiqing Yin are in the running. (Yin was also up for the newly launched Young Fashion Designer Prize, alongside Calla Haynes and Barnabe Hardy.) I can’t reveal who won until tomorrow night when it will be announced at the French Ministry of Culture, but I can tell you how different the presentations were.

Kimmel, fresh off his “dark surfing” Spring 2012 men’s runway show, said he hates public speaking, then spoke off the cuff and at length. The most interesting tidbit: “For many seasons now, it’s been a dream for me to do womenswear,” he told us. (He designed wife Leelee Sobieski’s suit for the CFDA Awards, left.) Vaccarello, a shy Belgian, barely opened his mouth at all, preferring to let his three prototypes for next season do the talking. Commuun’s Iku Furudate and Kaito Hori tag-teamed, sharing such inspirations for their upcoming show as late fifties cinema, natural graphics, and Japanese architecture. Laing read from well-prepared notes, citing influences from Kawakubo and Yamamoto to Cristobal Balenciaga and Madeleine Vionnet to McQueen, for whom he freelanced for four seasons. Palmer/Harding’s Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding, among the least well-known of the bunch, introduced us to their shirting concept. And Yin gave a sneak preview of her haute couture show next week. She’ll be working extra hard between now and then: She lost one of her three dresses to a scooter tail pipe on the way over. Check back tomorrow for the results.

Photo: Neil Rasmus / BFAnyc.com

Kimmel, Laing, Vaccarello, And More
Among The 2011 ANDAM Prize Nominees

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ANDAM, the French organization devoted to the development of young fashion talent, announced its six finalists for its annual award today, and it’s an international bunch of up-and-comers—some better known than others. Adam Kimmel (a look from whose Fall ’11 men’s collection is above, right), Anthony Vaccarello, Commuun, Jeremy Laing (a look from whose Fall ’11 collection is above, left), Matthew Harding, and Yiqing Yin will go head-to-head in Paris at the end of June. Up for grabs is a €200,000 prize, courtesy of the National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts, and a yearlong mentorship by Ralph Toledano, formerly of Chloé. Like previous winners Hakaan Yildirim, Giles Deacon, and Gareth Pugh, the designer who takes the prize is obligated to set up operations in France. I’ll be sitting on the jury with, among others, Toledano, Hilary Alexander, Emmanuelle Alt, Sarah Lerfel, Humberto Leon, and ANDAM founder Nathalie Dufour next month. Stay tuned for the blow-by-blow.

Photos: Amanda De Simone / GoRunway.com (Laing); Courtesy of Adam Kimmel (Kimmel)

Balmain’s New Gal, Alt’s First Cover, Dispatches From The Rumor Mill,
And More…

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Emmanuelle Alt’s ascension to the throne of Paris Vogue meant that her former employers—Balmain and Isabel Marant—were left without a stylist for their shows. Christophe Decarnin (left) has officially filled the position: longtime Helmut Lang stylist Melanie Ward is doing the honors for the label this season. [WWD]

And speaking of Alt, the editrix has revealed her first cover star: Gisele. “There was no question,” she tells British Vogue. The Brazilian supe wears Dolce & Gabbana and was shot by Inez and Vinoodh. [Vogue U.K. via Fashionista]

The rumor mill is churning again, using its new favorite echo chamber: Twitter. Someone at @KenzoPR has heard—and publicized—that “a certain designer at an established French house,” one whose CEO has just left, is being replaced after this season by “someone major” who “moved away from design the last couple of [years] but stayed in fashion.” [Racked]

And meanwhile in London, the Telegraph‘s Hilary Alexander drops backstage at Giles to chat with designer Giles Deacon and Katie Grand. This season’s look is austerity, Giles-style—which means austerity with plenty of goat fur. [Telegraph]

Photo: Photo: Monica Feudi / GoRunway.com

Roy Reigns At The State Of The Union, Prada Won’t Partner, Plus Ça Change At Paris Vogue, And More…

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Michelle Obama’s Alexander McQueen dress at a state dinner recently stuck in the craw of some American designers, who chastised the First Lady for failing to promote U.S. brands and industry. She sidestepped the controversy at last night’s State of the Union address: Mrs. O chose Rachel Roy for the occasion (left). [WSJ]

This morning in New York, the Spring +J collection hit Uniqlo. A little freezing snowstorm wasn’t enough to keep the fans away—people began lining up outside the retailer’s Soho shop as early as 6:30 a.m. [Racked]

Miuccia Prada sounds off on fast fashion and art in the latest installment of her two-part interview with Women’s Wear Daily. In short: Don’t expect a Prada collaboration with any high streeter any time soon. [WWD]

And speaking of expectations, what to look for in the new Paris Vogue under Emmanuelle Alt? “The same but different,” the editrix told the Telegraph at Couture. Got it. [Telegraph via Daily Front Row]

Photo: Jim Watson /AFP / Getty Images

Emmanuelle Alt To Be Editor In Chief Of Paris Vogue

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Announced this morning: Emmaneulle Alt (left), longtime rédactrice en chef mode at Paris Vogue and Carine Roitfeld’s front-row companion, will take the reins of the French glossy beginning February 1, 2011. Condé Nast France president Xavier Romatet made the announcement on Vogue.fr; Alt calls the appointment an “honor” and “a great pleasure.” She’ll continue to work alongside Olivier Lalanne, Paris Vogue‘s rédacteur en chef adjoint, whose duties will be enlarged in scope; Lalanne will continue to edit Vogue Hommes International independently.

Photo: vogue.fr