April 20 2014

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23 posts tagged "Erdem Moralioglu"

Fit for a Queen


 Princess Margaret's kaftan and turban

Fashion Rules—a new exhibition at London’s Kensington Palace showcasing twenty-one gowns once worn by Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Margaret, and Princess Diana—provides a peek at the royals’ wardrobes. “These three women were perhaps the most high-profile dressers of their time,” offered the show’s curator, Cassie Davies-Strodder. “Whatever they wore was photographed by international press and seen worldwide. The influence they had on fashion was bar none, and from a historical perspective, we felt it was critical to highlight that.” Now open to the public, the show comes before the much-anticipated September release of Oliver Hirschbiegel’s Diana biopic, in which Naomi Watts stars as the People’s Princess.

Sponsored by Estée Lauder, the exhibition’s opening party was held on Thursday evening at the Palace (once home to Queen Victoria, Princess Diana, and now the Duchess of Cambridge and Wills). And while the historic home’s new renovations—including a majestic stone hall with a thoroughly modern blue light sculpture by Loop.pH, quirky wallpaper boasting illustrations of Diana by artist Julie Verhoeven, and brick walls adorned with Mario Testino-lensed portraits of Princess Di—nearly overshadowed the dresses, several stood out. Key pieces include a gold caftan and turban worn by the party-loving Princess Margaret for a fete in Mustique (above), five gowns worn by the Queen in the fifties (below), and several Bruce Oldfield looks for Princess Diana. Oldfield himself was in attendance, joined by Poppy Delevingne, Tali Lennox, Minnie Driver, and Mr. Selfridge‘s Jeremy Piven. Designers Manolo Blahnik, Erdem Moralioglu, Richard Nicoll, Henry Holland, and Marios Schwab also stopped by to survey the scene. Continue Reading “Fit for a Queen” »

Lacy In the Sky


Lace looks from Joseph Altuzarra, Band of Outsiders, and Erdem

Lace—both the literal and trompe l’oeil varieties—has emerged as a notable trend during the Resort ’14 presentations. And while it started out racy—a see-through panel on a Dior gown, a waist-high slit on a Versus skirt—crocheting has now crossed over to a purer sort of application, invoking heavenly associations in hues of cloud-white and sky-blue. On the casual front, Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg showed a dégradé anorak that went from pure blanc at the shoulder to what resembled a lacy bramble of baby-blue vines at the hem (above, center). It lent a soft dichotomy to the collection’s otherwise bold prints by artist Guy Yanai.

Joseph Altuzarra took a more formal approach, webbing ornate, ivory-colored filigrees across powdery cyan skirts, jackets, and dresses (above, left). The effect was doily-dainty in tone, but visually impactful nonetheless. “The idea came from vintage French monogrammed napkins,” Altuzarra told “I wanted to reference Gloria Vanderbilt and an air of the seventies.” And Erdem Moralioglu effectively implemented delicate white lace in his mid-century British-seaside-inspired lineup, employing it as an overlay on a pair of blueberry pants, which were paired with a lace top covered in sheer black organza (above, right). The stuff also appeared on a long-sleeve dress shown over a periwinkle slip—a look that inspired a hint of breezy nostalgia.

Photos: Simon Cave/ Courtesy of Altuzarra; Courtesy of Band of Outsiders; Courtesy of Erdem

Hello, Moto


Ornate moto jackets from 3.1 Phillip Lim, Jonathan Simkhai, and Erdem

Black might be the motorcycle jacket’s de facto hue, but a number of designers have rendered ornate, polychrome twists on the wardrobe staple for Resort ’14. Take, for instance, 2013 CFDA Accessories Designer of the Year winner, Phillip Lim, who offered up an asymmetrical, cropped iteration of the moto jacket, replete with banded shoulders and an aerodynamic pattern that cut across the front (above, left). Combining a graphic eighties punch with a downtown sort of futurism, the topper was a prime example of Lim’s clean, sporty brand of quirkiness. Meanwhile, Erdem Moralioglu (above, right) showed an option that was thick, greasy, and yes, noir, but printed with a venerable thicket of English seaside flora (for inspiration, the designer looked through his mother’s old photographs from vacations to the British littoral). And up-and-coming New York-based designer Jonathan Simkhai turned out a custom-printed pony-hair jacket with sleeves in contrasting leather (above, center). “We wanted to create a Western feel, but with a techy spin,” the designer told when asked about the splatter motif. “It’s meant to be a futuristic cowhide.” And for the woman wondering how to pull off such an item, Simkhai offers: “Pair a statement jacket with soft silk track pants—it makes for a comfortable yet stylish transitional outfit.”

Photos: Courtesy of 3.1 Phillip Lim, Courtesy of Jonathan Simkhai, Courtesy of Erdem

Peter Lindbergh Shoots The CFDA’s Big Book


Tim Blanks by Peter Lindbergh

The CFDA Awards—in all their glittery glory—are set for June 3 (tune in on June 4 to see our broadcast). Each year, the Council compiles a mega-watt journal, including portraits of and information on all the nominees and honorees, which is handed out to guests at the event. Last year, Craig McDean had the honor of shooting the portfolio, and for 2013, the CFDA and the journal’s art director, Trey Laird, tapped Peter Lindbergh to lens the 150-page tome (the book was styled by Vanity Fair‘s Jessica Diehl and written by Max Berlinger). Here, black-and-white snaps of honorees Riccardo Tisci, Vera Wang, and Oscar de la Renta make their exclusive debut (below), as does a portrait of our very own Tim Blanks (above), who, having been named the Eugenia Sheppard Media Award honoree, is featured today on in an in-depth interview with our deputy editor, Matthew Schneier. To celebrate Blanks’ win, the likes of Raf Simons, Mary Katrantzou, Dries Van Noten, Thom Browne, and more came together to talk all things Tim in our exclusive video, A Change in Perspective.

Very Wang, Riccardo Tisci and Oscar de la Renta by Peter Lindbergh

Nicholas Kirkwood’s Big Win


Today in London, it was announced that shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood won the 2013 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund award, beating out nominees Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincic, Peter Pilotto, and Emilia Wickstead. Kirkwood walks away with a £200,000 prize and mentorship from industry insiders. This marks the start to a big year for Kirkwood, who launched his first men’s range during the London menswear shows earlier this month. Considering previous winners have included Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders, and Erdem Moralioglu, Kirkwood’s got some big shoes to fill, but we have a feeling he’s up for it.

Photo: Dave M. Benett/ Getty Images