36 posts tagged "Erdem"
By now, the Linda Farrow story is one of lore. Ten years ago, Tracy Sedino and her boyfriend, Simon Jablon (Linda Farrow’s table tennis-champ son), were redecorating an old warehouse that belonged to his designer mom. And by pure fortune, they discovered a box filled with old sunglasses that Linda had created for Balenciaga, Dior, and YSL in the seventies. The rest is history.
Ten years on and happily married to Jablon, Sedino has been busy fulfilling her mother-in-law’s design dream that was put aside for love, marriage, and children. In the past decade, with Jablon quarterbacking the business angle, Sedino has developed the Linda Farrow brand to an extreme: Their stand-alone products have drawn a legion of fans (think Rihanna, Gaga, Queen Bey, Madonna), and their collaborations have raised the bar even higher. Jeremy Scott, Erdem, Dries Van Noten, Oscar de la Renta, The Row, and Matthew Williamson are just a few designers with whom the brand has worked hand in hand.
To fete their ten-year diamond anniversary, Sedino is taking the brand and its muse—a giant doe-eyed raven-haired doll called Penelope—on a whirlwind road show. First stop was Colette, where Penelope wore Sedino’s Alexander McQueen wedding dress, and now, to Selfridges, where the brand has a “shop-in-shop”—the new parlance for pop-up shop. Sedino and Jablon have called upon ten brands, including Nicholas Kirkwood, Mawi, Falke, and Agent Provocateur to come up with a limited-edition selection of goodies (which will be available until October) to celebrate. And these products are not your typical eyewear. A gold detailed heel from Nicholas Kirkwood, some very naughty bow-detailed pantyhose from Falke, a super-sexy aromatic candle from Cire Trudon, and a Lycra playsuit-cum-harness from Agent Provocateur (which reminds us of something out of Fifty Shades) gives us a clue as to what is on the couple’s minds as they commemorate ten years of marriage and business. A clutch from Bottega Veneta PT 1 and a fur from Saga give the collection just enough grown-up veneer to sugarcoat the boudoir naughtiness. Good to know the flame hasn’t gone out—all ten-year anniversaries should be like this one.
Lace—both the literal and trompe l’oeil varieties—has emerged as a notable trend during the Resort ’14 presentations. And while it started out racy—a see-through panel on a Dior gown, a waist-high slit on a Versus skirt—crocheting has now crossed over to a purer sort of application, invoking heavenly associations in hues of cloud-white and sky-blue. On the casual front, Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg showed a dégradé anorak that went from pure blanc at the shoulder to what resembled a lacy bramble of baby-blue vines at the hem (above, center). It lent a soft dichotomy to the collection’s otherwise bold prints by artist Guy Yanai.
Joseph Altuzarra took a more formal approach, webbing ornate, ivory-colored filigrees across powdery cyan skirts, jackets, and dresses (above, left). The effect was doily-dainty in tone, but visually impactful nonetheless. “The idea came from vintage French monogrammed napkins,” Altuzarra told Style.com. “I wanted to reference Gloria Vanderbilt and an air of the seventies.” And Erdem Moralioglu effectively implemented delicate white lace in his mid-century British-seaside-inspired lineup, employing it as an overlay on a pair of blueberry pants, which were paired with a lace top covered in sheer black organza (above, right). The stuff also appeared on a long-sleeve dress shown over a periwinkle slip—a look that inspired a hint of breezy nostalgia.
Black might be the motorcycle jacket’s de facto hue, but a number of designers have rendered ornate, polychrome twists on the wardrobe staple for Resort ’14. Take, for instance, 2013 CFDA Accessories Designer of the Year winner, Phillip Lim, who offered up an asymmetrical, cropped iteration of the moto jacket, replete with banded shoulders and an aerodynamic pattern that cut across the front (above, left). Combining a graphic eighties punch with a downtown sort of futurism, the topper was a prime example of Lim’s clean, sporty brand of quirkiness. Meanwhile, Erdem Moralioglu (above, right) showed an option that was thick, greasy, and yes, noir, but printed with a venerable thicket of English seaside flora (for inspiration, the designer looked through his mother’s old photographs from vacations to the British littoral). And up-and-coming New York-based designer Jonathan Simkhai turned out a custom-printed pony-hair jacket with sleeves in contrasting leather (above, center). “We wanted to create a Western feel, but with a techy spin,” the designer told Style.com when asked about the splatter motif. “It’s meant to be a futuristic cowhide.” And for the woman wondering how to pull off such an item, Simkhai offers: “Pair a statement jacket with soft silk track pants—it makes for a comfortable yet stylish transitional outfit.”
“There are boys and girls, there is night and day, but above all there is love,” Dries Van Noten told Style.com’s Tim Blanks backstage before a Fall show that balanced the masculinity of Fred Astaire with the overt femininity of Ginger Rogers in Top Hat. The Belgian designer (who might want to consider a second career as a poet) mixed menswear fabrics in tailored silhouettes with frothy feathers for a result that was surprisingly realistic for daytime. Although plumage is typically reserved for special occasions, we couldn’t help but notice that many of this season’s collections were filled with afternoon-appropriate quills. The Proenza Schouler boys paired a tiered ostrich skirt with a degradé novelty sweatshirt, while Christopher Kane trimmed biker jackets and kicky kilt skirts with the downy stuff. Used sparingly—as seen at Erdem, Pringle of Scotland, and Louis Vuitton—feathers offered an unexpected alternative to fur accents. We have a feeling the peacocking street-style set, in particular, will take to this trend.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of noteworthy Fall plumage.
With the London shows wrapping today, and editors and models jetting off to Milan, it’s time to reflect on the catwalking highlights from the past two weeks. More so than any in recent memory, this season has been dominated by fresh faces. Nearly every new girl on our top-ten list from Spring, like Marine Deleeuw, Irina Kravchenko, Manon Leloup, and Esther Heesch, had majorly successful sophomore outings. But the Fall shows have brought in an additional crop of noteworthy rookies in demand.
Let’s begin with the handful of former Balenciaga exclusives, whose takeoffs were all but inevitable. Sam Rollinson (above, top left), who starred in a Burberry ad back in 2010 and was handpicked by Nicolas Ghesquière last season, had a strong NYFW. (She opened Reed Krakoff and walked Jason Wu, Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler, and Narciso Rodriguez, among others.) With a hometown advantage, the British brunette—whose cheekbones could cut glass—kept it up across the pond, scoring spots at Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders, and Giles. Two other Balenciaga favorites—Kremi Otashliyska and Chiharu Okunugi (above, lower right)—are also becoming runway regulars. The former hit catwalks at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler, and Marc Jacobs, while the Japanese stunner took turns at Rag & Bone, Rodarte, and Marc Jacobs in New York, and Erdem and Giles in London.
Opening the Alexander Wang show is usually a surefire way to go straight to the top, but this season, the second girl out—Tess Hellfeuer (above, top right)—is getting all the buzz. The model finished New York by closing Marc Jacobs, then emerged as a clear favorite of Michelle Lee in London, where she opened Jonathan Saunders and walked in Christopher Kane. Mijo Mihaljcic has also been making all the right appearances in London. Her tomboy appeal landed her spots at Burberry Prorsum, Jonathan Saunders, and Richard Nicoll. Continue Reading “Modelizing Fall ’13 Thus Far” »