5 posts tagged "Eric Daman"
“It was important for me to really open up,” said conceptual fashion designer Miguel Adrover at yesterday’s screening of Call It a Balance in the Unbalance—a documentary about the uncompromising talent’s meteoric rise and fall. The film—which made its U.S. premiere at the Pratt Institute last night—follows the career of the Majorcan-born talent, highlighting his now-legendary Lower East Side debut in 1999 and the conception of the many memorable pieces that followed (his infamous Burberry trench-turned-dress, a town coat hand-stitched from materials drawn from Quentin Crisp’s discarded mattress, and a pair of drooped trousers made from Adrover’s grandfather’s wardrobe all make cameos). “When you see a documentary of Marc Jacobs or Valentino [you never see them] wash their clothes,” Adrover told Style.com. “You saw my house. You saw my mom, my dad, my bathroom…you saw me pulling the clothes out of the washing machine,” he added.
The film details Adrover’s post-9/11 commercial descent and subsequent return to Majorca, and the designer’s friends and supporters, like Suzy Menkes and stylist Eric Daman, spoke candidly in on-screen interviews about his uncensored vision. Not surprisingly, so did Adrover. “I don’t give a shit about [money]; I don’t believe in Chanel; I don’t believe in Karl Lagerfeld; I don’t believe in Yves Saint Laurent; but I do believe you can change society,” he professed during a Q&A.
The screening comes on the heels of Adrover’s departure from organic German label Hessnatur after eight years as its creative director. What’s next for the outspoken rebel? “I have three shows already prepared,” said Adrover, whose designs will be featured in the Met’s upcoming Punk: Chaos to Couture exhibition. “Anytime. You give me the money, I will make it happen. I don’t need a big stadium or a lot of lighting or things. I can do it right here.”
The haute couture shows start on Monday, and in addition to the schedule’s usual suspects—Lagerfeld, Gaultier, Galliano, et al.—newcomer Maxime Simoëns is throwing his (presumably) hand-beaded hat into the ring. At 26, Simoëns is the first designer to join the official Couture calendar without ever having staged a runway show—unless you count his prize-winning 2009 debut at the annual Festival International de Mode et de Photographie in Hyères, France. Kris Van Assche was on the festival’s fashion jury that year, as were Jefferson Hack and Zoe Cassavetes. Obviously the kid keeps good company. Further proof? He’s currently operating out of Christian Lacroix’s old atelier.
On the eve of his Couture debut, Style.com talked to Simoëns about abandoning his first love for fashion, landing the Gossip girls, and his plans for re-shaping couture.
Your first interest was film. Why did you abandon it for fashion?
Starting from the age of five or six I was totally taken by James Dean, Charlie Chaplin, and Marilyn Monroe. Then I got to film school and found it too technical and scientific—all physics, math, chemistry. I wanted to express myself more concretely; I was thinking less about science and more about the narration of a heroine. Then came Madonna’s “Drowned” World Tour and I took one look at the costumes and silhouettes—and of course the corsets—by Jean Paul Gaultier, and I knew. I went home and started to draw. It totally threw my parents off because after ten years of talking about film I turned around and told them it was going to be fashion.
What happened once you arrived in Paris?
I attended the Chambre Syndicale, and I figured that since Gaultier was my inspiration my first internship should be there. It’s very complicated to get an internship there, so I knocked on all the doors I could, and then I hand-embroidered a letter on a corset that I made out of python and painted. It took my whole summer vacation—the corset, the packaging, everything. Mr. Gaultier never saw it, but his assistants did. It made the rounds in-house and that’s how I got my internship in the accessories department.
You also interned at Christian Dior and Balenciaga. What were the takeaways there?
Continue Reading “26-Year-Old Maxime Simoëns Takes On Couture” »
The new age of media, part 1: Longtime W creative director Dennis Freedman will leave the magazine. [WWD]
The new age of media, part 2: The Times takes a moment to celebrate these rising young stars called bloggers! Have you ever heard of such a thing? But we are glad to see Fashionologie‘s Tommye Fitzpatrick get a deserved nod. [NYT]
News that should make the tweens of the world squeal: Blair Waldorf will wear Matthew Williamson (pictured) in an upcoming episode of Gossip Girl, and Williamson is returning the favor by having GG costume designer Eric Daman do the windows of his Meatpacking District store. [WWD]
The Richemont Group—which owns Cartier, Chloé, and Dunhill—has officially made a £350 million offer to buy Net-a-Porter. We could make some corporate comment, but really, more Chloé on N-a-P doesn’t bother us a bit. [Vogue U.K.]