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July 25 2014

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5 posts tagged "Eric Daman"

Miguel Adrover Sounds Off

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“It was important for me to really open up,” said conceptual fashion designer Miguel Adrover at yesterday’s screening of Call It a Balance in the Unbalance—a documentary about the uncompromising talent’s meteoric rise and fall. The film—which made its U.S. premiere at the Pratt Institute last night—follows the career of the Majorcan-born talent, highlighting his now-legendary Lower East Side debut in 1999 and the conception of the many memorable pieces that followed (his infamous Burberry trench-turned-dress, a town coat hand-stitched from materials drawn from Quentin Crisp’s discarded mattress, and a pair of drooped trousers made from Adrover’s grandfather’s wardrobe all make cameos). “When you see a documentary of Marc Jacobs or Valentino [you never see them] wash their clothes,” Adrover told Style.com. “You saw my house. You saw my mom, my dad, my bathroom…you saw me pulling the clothes out of the washing machine,” he added.

The film details Adrover’s post-9/11 commercial descent and subsequent return to Majorca, and the designer’s friends and supporters, like Suzy Menkes and stylist Eric Daman, spoke candidly in on-screen interviews about his uncensored vision. Not surprisingly, so did Adrover. “I don’t give a shit about [money]; I don’t believe in Chanel; I don’t believe in Karl Lagerfeld; I don’t believe in Yves Saint Laurent; but I do believe you can change society,” he professed during a Q&A.

The screening comes on the heels of Adrover’s departure from organic German label Hessnatur after eight years as its creative director. What’s next for the outspoken rebel? “I have three shows already prepared,” said Adrover, whose designs will be featured in the Met’s upcoming Punk: Chaos to Couture exhibition. “Anytime. You give me the money, I will make it happen. I don’t need a big stadium or a lot of lighting or things. I can do it right here.”

Photo: Courtesy of the Pratt Institute

26-Year-Old Maxime Simoëns Takes On Couture

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The haute couture shows start on Monday, and in addition to the schedule’s usual suspects—Lagerfeld, Gaultier, Galliano, et al.—newcomer Maxime Simoëns is throwing his (presumably) hand-beaded hat into the ring. At 26, Simoëns is the first designer to join the official Couture calendar without ever having staged a runway show—unless you count his prize-winning 2009 debut at the annual Festival International de Mode et de Photographie in Hyères, France. Kris Van Assche was on the festival’s fashion jury that year, as were Jefferson Hack and Zoe Cassavetes. Obviously the kid keeps good company. Further proof? He’s currently operating out of Christian Lacroix’s old atelier.

On the eve of his Couture debut, Style.com talked to Simoëns about abandoning his first love for fashion, landing the Gossip girls, and his plans for re-shaping couture.

Your first interest was film. Why did you abandon it for fashion?

Starting from the age of five or six I was totally taken by James Dean, Charlie Chaplin, and Marilyn Monroe. Then I got to film school and found it too technical and scientific—all physics, math, chemistry. I wanted to express myself more concretely; I was thinking less about science and more about the narration of a heroine. Then came Madonna’s “Drowned” World Tour and I took one look at the costumes and silhouettes—and of course the corsets—by Jean Paul Gaultier, and I knew. I went home and started to draw. It totally threw my parents off because after ten years of talking about film I turned around and told them it was going to be fashion.

What happened once you arrived in Paris?
I attended the Chambre Syndicale, and I figured that since Gaultier was my inspiration my first internship should be there. It’s very complicated to get an internship there, so I knocked on all the doors I could, and then I hand-embroidered a letter on a corset that I made out of python and painted. It took my whole summer vacation—the corset, the packaging, everything. Mr. Gaultier never saw it, but his assistants did. It made the rounds in-house and that’s how I got my internship in the accessories department.


You also interned at Christian Dior and Balenciaga. What were the takeaways there?
Continue Reading “26-Year-Old Maxime Simoëns Takes On Couture” »

A Few Good Men—Besides Marc Jacobs—Try Skirts

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As the costume designer of Gossip Girl, Eric Daman knows from plaid skirts. So he was an obvious choice to jazz up the proceedings at the eighth annual Dressed to Kilt party and men-in-skirts fashion show, hosted by Hollywood’s go-to Scots, Sir Sean and Lady Connery. “Oh, I did my research. I hunted around and found this great Web site, SportKilt.com, that sells them in all sorts of fabrics,” Daman said of his classic red tartan. He was on hand to judge the charity runway show (proceeds went to various veterans’ causes through the Erskine Hospital), but with his stacks of bejeweled bangles and layers of necklaces, he showed up a few of the catwalkers. “Well, yeah, I had to put my own spin on things,” the stylist admitted with a smile. “But I would love to see Gerard Butler in a kilt.”

Daman wasn’t the only one hoping for a glimpse of The Bounty Hunter star, but it turned out Butler, who was expected to hit the catwalk, missed the event because he went a bit closer to the source—the actor was rumored to be currently in Scotland. Never mind, there was plenty of action on the runway sans Mr. 300. Kyle MacLachlan (pictured) accessorized with combat boots. Joan Jett managed to make her Scottish ensemble very Gareth Pugh by accessorizing her look with a maxi patent black leather coat and a Mohawk feathered headdress by the young milliner William Chambers. Al Roker, who told us he “wasn’t all that nervous” despite it being his first ever fashion show, ended up doing a jig down the runway. And Donald Trump, Jr., pulled off a mustard yellow and black kilt with admirable style while Trump, Sr. (who gamely stated earlier, “Sure, I would wear a kilt”) and Melania cheered him on. But it was Marcus Schenkenberg who nailed the motto of the evening. A Dressed to Kilt veteran, the male model had this bit of advice: “You just let it all hang loose.”

Photo: Lloyd Bishop

When Waldorf Met Williamson, A W Farewell, And More…

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The new age of media, part 1: Longtime W creative director Dennis Freedman will leave the magazine. [WWD]

The new age of media, part 2: The Times takes a moment to celebrate these rising young stars called bloggers! Have you ever heard of such a thing? But we are glad to see Fashionologie‘s Tommye Fitzpatrick get a deserved nod. [NYT]

News that should make the tweens of the world squeal: Blair Waldorf will wear Matthew Williamson (pictured) in an upcoming episode of Gossip Girl, and Williamson is returning the favor by having GG costume designer Eric Daman do the windows of his Meatpacking District store. [WWD]

The Richemont Group—which owns Cartier, Chloé, and Dunhill—has officially made a £350 million offer to buy Net-a-Porter. We could make some corporate comment, but really, more Chloé on N-a-P doesn’t bother us a bit. [Vogue U.K.]

Photo: Nick Sadler / Startraks Photo

Gossip Girl‘s Secret Staple Revealed!

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In his new book You Know You Want It, Gossip Girl costume designer Eric Daman goes boldly into some of the styling trade’s most intimate regions: “underwear and breasts and bras and things that can push and pull,” he explained last night at Henri Bendel, where Ed Westwick and Leighton Meester were co-hosting a launch party.

“It was a battle with the publisher to get the book to where I wanted it to be—very in-your-face. But that’s who I am,” Daman said, adding that at his Tyra taping earlier that day, the America’s Next Top Model girls had been all over it. What’s his secret? “The text is really big.”

Give Daman credit for practicing what he preaches—he had duct tape under his bowtie and tuxedo shirt—and for educating Jessica Szohr, among others. “I’m a girl from Wisconsin,” Szohr said. “Everything I know about fashion is because of Eric and Gossip Girl.” What she now knows—and the rest of the cast, too—may have much to do with that pushing and pulling. “Spanx are on the set every single day,” Daman dished. “Who’s wearing them, I’m not gonna tell you.”

Photo: Louis Burgis / Retna