8 posts tagged "Erickson Beamon"
Few designers can list the struggling metropolis that is Detroit among their muses. Vicki Sarge is one of them. “You can take the girl out of Detroit, but you can’t take Detroit out of the girl!” quipped the jewelry designer, a Motown native, by phone. Though she decamped to London circa 1985 (and to New York before that), Sarge spoke to us during a recent visit to her mother’s Detroit abode. “I never wanted to live here,” she admitted. “But the amazing roots that I have here from my youth have stayed with me the whole time.”
While you may not know her name, you’ve most certainly seen the over-the-top, often dark-tinged baubles Sarge designed during her nearly 40-year tenure at celebrated bijoux brand Erickson Beamon. Together with her co-founders, Karen and Erik Erickson and Eric Beamon, Sarge adorned countless celebrities (Madonna, Beyoncé, Kate Moss, and Lady Gaga among them), collaborated with a bevy of designers (like John Galliano and Dries Van Noten), and transformed “costume jewelry” from a dirty secret to a coveted accoutrement.
But four decades in the same gig is a long time—especially for someone like Sarge, whose colorful path to accessories stardom included a job as the coat-check girl at New York’s Mudd Club (Keith Haring was the creative director at the time), spells as a regular at both Studio 54 and London’s Taboo, and a stint working in the Jim Henson Company creative department, where she got to do some “Muppet stuff.” So last year Sarge struck out on her own to begin a new chapter.
The resulting collection of costume jewelry is an intriguing fusion of the designer’s tongue-in-cheek approach to opulence, and her memories of the Motor City. “In the sixties and seventies, Detroit was a really great rock ‘n’ roll place,” Sarge recalled. She credits Iggy and the Stooges—who used to play at her high school dances—with making it as such. “My girlfriend had sex with Iggy after a concert once,” she mentioned casually. “But the music was just this raw sound that could only come out of Detroit. It was really great.”
Sarge explained that the “cool casualness,” and rocker vibe of her line—now in its second season—come from her hometown. But what about Fall 2014′s vibrant red flowers, shimmering crystals, and tribal ear cuffs? “Well, there are glam-rock bits there, too,” Sarge conceded. Surely her wilder days in Eighties London, during which she partied with John Galliano and her close friend Stephen Jones, have wiggled their way into her subconscious, too. “But it all comes from my soul, so it’s authentic me: bold, clean, beautiful, and a little edgy.”
In addition to Sarge’s sophomore solo effort (above), which made its debut during London fashion week, the designer crafted jewelry for Erdem’s Fall show and is working on an upcoming project with hairstylist Sam McKnight. She also hints that a second store (her first is on London’s Elizabeth Street) might be on the horizon. As far as stateside stockists go, the collection was picked up by Net-a-Porter right off the bat (it should be mentioned that Sarge also worked with Mario Testino on his Peruvian capsule for the e-tailer), but the designer hasn’t officially introduced her range to the U.S. market. That unveiling is reserved for a forthcoming spring event with Birmingham, Mich.-based retailer Linda Dresner and the Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit. “Detroit has given me a hell of a lot—at the very least, my attitude comes from Detroit—and I want to give something back,” offered Sarge. What’s more is that a few of her fancy London friends might tag along for the party. “Stephen’s always telling me he wants to come to Detroit,” she said. Looks like the hatter finally has a good excuse to make the trip.
Music and fashion go hand in hand, particularly during New York fashion week, which consistently boasts performances that can make or break the showgoing or after-party experience (we’re still reminiscing over Valentino Garavani’s karaoke rendition of “I Did It My Way” a year ago). True to form, there will be a mix of acts both familiar and brand-new this week. Cyndi Lauper, for example, will be keeping the energy up with hits like “Girls Just Want to Have Fun” on the Betsey Johnson runway and at the designer’s 70th birthday bash, while the 17-year-old vocalist Alexandra McDermott will make her live debut at Erin Fetherston’s presentation tomorrow evening. Fetherston discovered McDermott, who has been described as having “the attitude of Fiona Apple with the voice of Adele,” at a casting and was taken with her beauty (she also stars in the new collection’s lookbook) and talent.
Rebecca Minkoff’s Friday show will feature performances by husband-and-wife indie pop duo Tennis as well as DJ Cassidy. Speaking of turntable sets, Brendan Fallis (a.k.a. Theophilus London‘s manager and Hannah Bronfman’s boyfriend) will spin at Jill Stuart’s Saturday show, where his soundtrack will include “moody and ethereal” tracks like Grimes’ “Vanessa” and Purity Ring’s “Odedear.” On Thursday morning, ?uestlove (pictured) of The Roots (not to mention Late Night With Jimmy Fallon) will be providing the beats at Dannijo’s brunch presentation, hosted by Brooklyn Decker.
Some designers are thinking out-of-the-box when it comes to entertainment. Following up its burlesque Fall presentation, Erickson Beamon is re-creating the iconic opening scene of the 1960s French film Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo? by bringing members of the audience into the action, while Concept Korea‘s Friday morning show will offer a special performance by the Martha Graham Dance Company. Rising designer Mandy Coon commissioned Miike Snow’s Pontus Winnberg to create an original song for her new collection. In addition to playing the track at her Monday show, Coon also incorporated the track’s midi file as a digital print.
Other noteworthy concerts include Black Rebel Motorcycle Club at the Converse by John Varvatos shoe launch party on Saturday night plus Three Six Mafia at Supreme’s shindig at the Westway on Thursday. There will undoubtedly be a few surprises along the way. Azealia Banks is in town for Fashion’s Night Out at the MAC store, and a performance at Alexander Wang’s notorious after-party doesn’t seem out of the question, right?
New York is triumphant, Gisele disappointed: The Giants walked away with a new Super Bowl ring last night. But for the legions of fashion fans tuning in last night, it was the halftime show that was the main event. Madonna delivered a rousing (if potentially lip-synched) performance that incorporated plenty of old hits, including “Vogue,” “Open Your Heart,” and “Like a Prayer,” along with her new single, “Give Me All Your Luvin’,” for a ten-minute-plus medley that ended with a full-on gospel choir. Along the way, LMFAO, Nicki Minaj, M.I.A., and Cee-Lo Green all made appearances. (M.I.A. even managed to elude censors to give the finger to the live television audience.)
And the wardrobe? Courtesy of stylist and costume designer B. Akerlund, who worked with Madonna on videos including “Celebration,” “Jump,” and “4 Minutes,” they incorporated an Egyptian goddess’ store of gold headdresses and jewels and a dash of Versace-inspired Greece. Her three looks all came courtesy of Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy Haute Couture: to begin, a gold cape hand-embroidered with gold metal, studs, crystals, and lined in leopard-print chiffon; in the middle sections, a black minidress in silk cady with leopard-print cape in silk charmeuse (also hand-embroidered) and hand-studded python belt with removable flaps (above); and to close, the long black coat in silk cady with hand-embroidered sequins and micro pearls. (Sketches of all three looks are below.) Philip Treacy created her gold metal hat for Givenchy, and the label also created her nappa leather gloves. In a statement, the designer said, “People say everything has a limit, but limits do not exist with Madonna.” (Twitter seems to concur: The site reports that her performance garnered an average 8,000 tweets per second for five straight minutes.) Madonna accessorized with 19.6 carats of white gold and diamond earrings by Bulgari and over-the-knee boots by Miu Miu. Her hair was styled by Andy Lecompte and makeup by Gina Brooke.
The rest of the evening’s fashion credits continue to roll in. Madonna’s “Music” backup dancers wore Jeremy Scott for Adidas; Nicki Minaj wore a headdress by Erickson Beamon.