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April 20 2014

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8 posts tagged "Ermenegildo Zegna"

In Milan, Sci-Fi, Chiseled Male Models,
And Disco—Direct From The Church

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Francesca Versace—yes, of those Versaces—writes in from her jaunts around Milan fashion week.


There’s nothing quite like the feeling of fashion week in Milan, and there’s definitely an electricity in the air today. I love to take a moment and observe the madness at Café Cova—you can watch trends start to happen before your eyes. For this one week, everyone is trying desperately to outdo one another. The sidewalks and streets are the greatest runways of all.

I take in a few shows—the sci-fi looks at Ermanno Scervino, the English roses at Luisa Beccaria—and stop by my friend Kristina’s for a hush-hush fitting before she presents her collection. Then it’s off to the Zegna 100th anniversary party with my father. I see the lovely Anna Zegna, who reminds me that her first and only job outside her family’s company was her time with my late uncle Gianni. I do a tour of the gorgeous new store, designed by the brilliant Peter Marino—and stop to check out some of the chiseled Zegna-clad male models along the way. A man really cannot go wrong with a Zegna suit; it is the utmost mark of elegance and quality.

Finally, I rush over on my bicycle to see a former classmate of mine from Saint Martins, Mark Fast, and his super-hip, super-fun collection for the Italian label Pinko (pictured). Although we’re in a church, the mood is pure disco and high-octane glam. I love that Mark can maintain his vision yet breathe new life into an existing brand—that’s the beauty of these collaborations. The new and the old colliding—on the stores, on the streets, and on the runways.

Photo: Courtesy Photo

The Suit: An Appreciation

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We’re knee-deep in Milan men’s fashion week, and suit aficionados—myself included—should be happier than pigs in, well, what pigs like to wallow in. Womenswear designers have lately been hearing the call of the suit, too (witness the power-suit-heavy Fall ’10 collections), and looking at both those ladies’ options and the finely tailored Italian versions currently parading through Milan, it’s easy to see why. There’s something so perfect and self-contained about a great suit, whether it’s a classic version, like Ermenegildo Zegna’s, or a jazzed-up new standard, like Prada’s denim-on-denim (pictured), or Martyn Bal’s new eighties revivals at Versace. The suit is a uniform, but worn right, it can be one in the best possible sense of the word—something worn because it enables. I think that’s what Rick Owens was getting at, when, a few years ago, he professed his admiration for the Parisian interior designer Jean-Michel Frank, who whittled his wardrobe down to one perfect item. “Supposedly he has 40 identical gray flannel suits,” he said. “That always impressed me.” Find what really works, and don’t change it. Or change it ever so slightly to fit you. That’s what I thought when I read Karen Wright’s catalog of her run-ins with the incomparable painter David Hockney in More Intelligent Life. Tucked away at the bottom was a great little detail: Hockney, who has famously taken to sketching using iPhone (and now iPad) apps in place of pencil and paper, has his suits altered to accommodate. Each one—even his tuxedo—has a deep inner pocket sewn into the jacket, one that precisely fits the iPad. If you want to be a master, you’ve got to dress the part.

Photo: Marcio Madeira / FirstView.com

Stam Sketches, Lacroix Goes With The Grain, And More…

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Jess Stam (pictured) has already got her muse credentials down—she inspired Marc Jacobs’ best-selling Stam bag—but now she’s adding designer to her list of titles. The model revealed (via Twitter, of course) that she’s hard at work on a capsule collection for Rachel Rachel Roy. [Vogue U.K.]

The latest from Lacroix: Four new licenses have already been signed by the company’s new CEO, for eyewear, home textiles, stationery, and decorative wood paneling. Because if there’s one thing we always lamented about the Lacroix atelier, it’s that it wasn’t focused enough on decorative wood paneling. [WWD]

Ermenegildo Zegna is going back to school. After 100 years in the suit-making business, the label has established a master’s program in menswear at Milan’s Istituto Marangoni. [WWD]

And Page Six is gleefully reporting that Linda Evangelista has rented an uptown pied-à-terre—in addition to her downtown loft—to be closer to her son’s school during the week. We hate to dredge up Linda’s famous wouldn’t-get-out-of-bed quote again, but… [Page Six]

Photo: David X. Prutting / PatrickMcMullan.com