4 posts tagged "Esteban Cortazar"
Last week we reported that Esteban Cortazar is relaunching his label with a new concept we’ve dubbed “see-now, wear-now.” A few weeks after his upcoming collection is shown in Paris this September (he’s calling it Spring, but it’s really trans-seasonal), the first deliveries will arrive at Barneys New York and The Webster, as well as on Net-a-Porter. It’s a forward-thinking concept, to be sure. In this video, Cortazar turns back the clock and reflects on his 1990s youth in Miami, when the likes of Gianni Versace, Herb Ritts, Madonna, and Todd Oldham were discovering South Beach. “It made me who I am today,” he says. Watch the clip above, exclusively on Style.com.
Esteban Cortazar caused a sensation when he landed on the New York catwalks back in 2002. His very first collection was snapped up by Bloomingdale’s, and he found himself face-to-face with Oprah, the youngest designer ever, at 18, to stage a fashion show. Fast-forward twelve years (which included a brief stint at Emanuel Ungaro) and Cortazar is angling for the headlines again. This time the news is the manner in which he’s presenting his expanded eponymous range.
For two seasons, he distributed his collection strictly through Net-a-Porter. Now, with new investors, London’s MH Luxe, behind him, he’s got Barneys and The Webster signed on, too. Those stores have already previewed his Spring collection (normally seen in September and October) and placed orders that he’s currently in the midst of producing. Come Paris fashion week, he’ll present the collection to the press, and, as he puts it, “the first drops will start right after [the show] at the beginning of October. When all the communications start happening, the client can know she can have it right away.” (The collection, which ranges from a molded saddle leather top to a soft T-shirt with a good yard of fringe circling the hem and includes more traditional tailoring, is designed to be trans-seasonal.)
Fashion has been griping for years about the lag time between runway shows and store deliveries. “Why not do something that speaks to the future?” Cortazar asks. “It doesn’t make sense anymore to show a collection that won’t be in stores for six months—the momentum and the desire dissipate. Everyone likes to see everything instantly now, but [up until now] no one’s been able to buy instantly.” Will other designers follow Cortazar’s lead? If they do, the trickle-down effect could be huge for traditional fashion magazines, which need production time of their own to turn around new issues. But he reports that buyers “are responding in a really positive way.”
Style.com debuts a video about the project exclusively here.
After parting ways with Emanuel Ungaro back in 2009, Esteban Cortázar revived his namesake line with the help of Net-a-Porter‘s Natalie Massenet and co. They gave him the opportunity to create an exclusive capsule that launched last September, and now they’ve invited him back for a second season. At a preview of the sophomore range, which will be available beginning July 3, the Colombian-born designer explained, “I’m putting all of myself and my past experiences into this new journey, and [Net-a-Porter has] given me all the freedom and confidence to experiment.” Cortázar created eighteen pieces (maxing out at $1,900) that explore the lines and the curves of the female form via body-con silhouettes and architectural cutouts. A stretchy double-faced cady sheath came with a capelet that bisected and highlighted the décolleté (Shala Monroque debuted the look at the Chloé party earlier this week), for example, while long-and-lean jumpsuits featured stingray details reportedly inspired by a migration of manta rays. There were several sportier pieces, like a deconstructed tunic that had a sweatshirt-like ease and a dramatic stone-colored gown with a stretchy, armor-esque bodice and a structured skirt that flowed into a cascading train. The jewelry here, which was done in collaboration with Alican Icoz, completed the total look. Gold contour collars that wrapped around the nape were reminiscent of stingray barbs, while knuckle rings and chokers could’ve passed for medical equipment.
The images from Cortázar’s second capsule for Net-a-Porter debut here on Style.com.
The rumors were true. Hurricane Lindsay is headed for the house of Ungaro, mere months after Esteban Cortazar’s departure following reported tension over bringing the starlet on as permanent muse. Lohan, whose official title is “artistic adviser” (maybe “pantless paparazzi fodder” was taken?), joins new head designer Estrella Archs in a bid to drum up some Lohan-caliber press for the brand. To wit, Ungaro has a paltry 1.3 million Google hits compared to Lohan’s 26 million; turns
out all press is good press. Starlets looking for a design gig, take note. [WWD]