3 posts tagged "Esther de Jong"
Many designers claim to make real clothes for real women, but that claim isn’t quite convincing when the collections are presented on twiggy teenagers wearing wigs and a bucketload of makeup. However, several of the Pre-Fall lookbooks that star non-models suggest change is coming. Take, for example, Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, who showcased their latest lineup for The Row on silver-haired beauty entrepreneur Linda Rodin as well as old-school catwalkers Esther de Jong and Ursula Wallis. Their mature casting underscored the sophistication of the collection. Roland Mouret also likes to feature strong, creative characters. After spotlighting DJ Mimi Xu for Resort, Mouret snapped eccentric knitwear designer/arts patron Tiphaine de Lussy for Pre-Fall. Last but not least, stylist and street-style favorite Ursina Gysi posed for Sonia Rykiel this season. We’re hoping to see fashion promote real people more often in the future.
In recent years, fashion designers, casting directors, and model agencies alike have been scrutinized for using underage models. But while the phenomenon is still troublingly widespread, so is a happier trend from the opposite end of the spectrum: the ongoing prominence of the comparatively mature model—which, in the fishbowl of fashion, means north of (gasp!) 29. But beauty, of course, doesn’t end with your twenties. Who can forget the buzz that Naomi Campbell—looking as good as ever at 43—stirred up when she opened and closed Atelier Versace back in July? Throughout the Couture shows were appearances by Yasmin Warsame and Alek Wek at Christian Dior, as well as 30-year-old Chinese super Du Juan closing at Giambattista Valli.
Veteran models fared well at the Fall ’13 shows, too. Carolyn Murphy turned up at Calvin Klein Collection, and Alexander Wang put Malgosia Béla in the lineups for both his namesake collection and his Balenciaga debut. Meanwhile, Tom Ford brought back Liya Kebede and Julia Stegner for his first major runway spectacle, and Miuccia Prada mixed cult favorites—including Kirsten Owen, Liisa Winkler, and Esther de Jong—in with the newcomers at her Fall show. Going into the Spring ’14 season, here’s hoping we’ll see more of these familiar faces return to the runways. At the top of our list is Christy Turlington, who currently stars in Fall ad campaigns for Prada, Calvin Klein, and Jason Wu. Christy, the catwalk is calling you back.
Milan is notoriously regarded as a difficult city for new models. But it’s not hard to see why big-name labels like Versace and Gucci prefer to cast established catwalkers like Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, and Karmen Pedaru: Veterans simply know how to carry sexy clothes. That said, many of the rookies we’ve had our eyes on since the beginning of the season have proven that they can strut toe-to-toe with the big girls. Chiharu Okunugi, Sam Rollinson, Sasha Luss, and Katya Riabinkina, in particular, seem to be at the top of most casting directors’ lists this season. We’re also going to add Manuela Frey, a Spring ’13 Saint Laurent exclusive who opened Calvin Klein in New York and did turns at Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, and Emilio Pucci in Italy. She’s kept up the momentum so far in Paris, with appearances at Dries Van Noten, Rochas, and Damir Doma.
Perhaps the best way to evaluate Milan’s crop of newcomers is to compare two of the week’s most hyped shows: Prada, which is cast by Ashley Brokaw, and Jil Sander, which is cast by Maida & Rami. Both are characteristically chock-full of unknowns, but there was more of an overlap than usual this season. Girls who walked both include past Balenciaga exclusives Juliane Gruner and Kirstin Kragh Liljegren (who actually opened Balenciaga last season). At Prada, they were sandwiched in between well-known faces such as Mariacarla Boscono, Liisa Winkler, Adriana Lima, Kirsten Owen, Jessica Stam, Iselin Steiro, and Esther de Jong (easily one of our favorite casts thus far), as well as a few more novices like Maartje Verhoef (above, left), Elise Smidt, and Jessa Brown, who also did Sander. As we move into the Paris shows, we’ll have our eyes peeled for these girls and a few others, including Amanda Murphy (above, right), who bookended Prada after opening Proenza Schouler, and then followed that up with appearances at Dries Van Noten and H&M today.
Speaking of, H&M turned out a cast of heavy hitters (you can chalk that up to a mega-budget and George Cortina’s styling), including Arizona Muse, Cara Delevingne, Daphne Groeneveld, Delfine Bafort, Edita Vilkeviciute, Isabeli Fontana, Joan Smalls, and closer Malgosia Bela.