3 posts tagged "Faconnable"
Over the past sixty-plus years, Façonnable has established itself as a brand that captures the essence of the Côte d’Azur lifestyle (think: a round of tennis followed by an afternoon spent sailing off the coast of Monaco). Best known for its classic men’s suits and signature sporty staples, such as polo shirts and chinos, the label is repositioning itself and reviving its womenswear program for Fall ’14 with the help of its new artistic director, Daniel Kearns. Before taking the helm at Façonnable, Kearns served as the design director of menswear for Yves Saint Laurent under Stefano Pilati, and also worked at Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, and John Galliano. With this proven prowess in masculine tailoring, he rose to the challenge of creating his first women’s collection. “This is the first time I have mixed both tailoring and flow. Womenswear needs a more sensitive approach and is another mind-set,” he told Style.com.
For his debut ladies’ lineup, Kearns kept the look elegant and understated (for the most part), whipping up sharp tuxedos, slim sheaths, and plush outerwear. His looks feature subtle accents that recall Façonnable’s heritage, such as braided trims and belts (a nod to the brand’s nautical roots). With an eye on the modern customer, he added several pieces that felt a bit more fashion-forward, including novelty bomber jackets and a metallic rose-gold pencil skirt. Another major development here was the reintroduction of eveningwear, which plays an important role in Façonnable’s history. When Jean Goldberg founded the label, in 1950, many actresses sought him out for gowns to wear to the Cannes Film Festival. With that in mind, Kearns showed a handful of beautiful, body-skimming column dresses with capelet details in back—the style in crimson-hued silk was a particular standout. “When you think of the French Riviera, you think of Cannes and women like Romy Schneider and Grace Kelly in Monte Carlo, as well as the photography of Helmut Newton and all the artists who retreated here for inspiration,” he explained. Altogether, Kearns’ impressive first foray into womenswear (in addition to new advertising campaigns, updated branding, and refurbished stores) suggests a bright new future for Façonnable.
Façonnable’s Fall ’14 womenswear lookbook, which was shot at the historic Cap Estel hotel, debuts here, exclusively on Style.com.
Fall 2013 marks Lebanese-born, Paris-raised Mira Mikati’s first ready-to-wear collaboration with traditionally French brand Façonnable. Titled Ç x Façonnable, the capsule explores the label’s fun, feminine side. “I wanted to go back to the brand’s French identity,” said Mikati of her “very blue, very Riviera” collection. She started by mining the house’s necktie archives, using vintage stripes and patterns for trim on a trench and a scuba top. Mikati even turned a necktie into a belt, which was shown with a pair of pajama-style evening separates. (The outfit looked so comfortable, one might be tempted to actually sleep in it.) For brisk fall days, there was a toggle coat with jacquard lining, a wool Perfecto, and outerwear with thick ribbed knit sleeves. “Façonnable is all about a relaxed, fresh, high-energy look,” noted Mikati, who knows a thing or two about what’s out there and—more importantly—what’s missing. A fashion designer by training, and cofounder of the concept store Plum in Beirut, Mikati already has a keen sense of the look women will be craving next season. What might that be, exactly? “Less black!” she laughs.
The sliced-and-diced trenches created by Dryce (one name only, svp) for his Paris-based line, Lahssan, have attracted their share of brainy fans. Rei Kawakubo is one such admirer; the Comme des Garçons designer grabbed a few to stock at her 10 Corso Como store in Tokyo. But they’re still a relatively difficult item to track down (except, that is, on Tommy Ton’s Style.com street-style coverage, where they pop up with ever-increasing frequency on showgoers, like Dryce’s friend Elisa Nalin). But Lahssan wares will become a bit easier to find this spring when a new collaboration between the label and Façonnable hits stores. Its origin story is simple enough: Façonnable’s owner loved the Lahssan trenches and, fresh off a project with Lapo Elkann on sunglasses, was in a collaborative mood. “We had a nice café in Paris near Le Palais-Royal and she proposed me to rework their iconic stripe,” Dryce says. “I wanted to design something a little less conceptual but still fun—something between Façonnable and Daniel Buren.” (Buren, for the uninitiated, is one of the grand sires of French conceptual art, with a particular predilection for stripes; his installation Les Deux Plateaux sits in the courtyard of the Palais-Royal.) The striped trenches, in brilliant blue, green, yellow, and red, will have farther reach than usual: They’ll debut at Barneys in the States, Le Printemps in France, and Isetan in Japan this spring. To celebrate them, Dryce did what now comes naturally: Tossed a few Nalin’s way and set her and Tommy Ton loose in Paris.