10 posts tagged "Fall ’14"
Is that Anya Hindmarch riffling through our kitchen cupboards again? That’s what it felt like at her wildly entertaining Fall ’14 show yesterday. As soon as the crowd took their seats, there were cues to what was coming—namely a bunch of fit male models in ballet shoes. We were then told by PR not to step on the holes in the floor…the plot thickens.
Sure enough, to the tune of a joyous, happy soundtrack, the bags marched out. The first boasted a portrait of Tony the Tiger from the Frosted Flakes box, followed by Cocoa Puffs, The Kellogg’s rooster, and Daz (basically the U.K. version of Tide detergent).
All of this was presented by models on a conveyer belt pushing shopping trolleys. And those trolleys kept getting fuller with handbag goodies: a clutch in a tubular shape of Digestive biscuits, then clutches in colors of the English chocolate Quality Street, with its distinctive, jewel-toned foil wrappers, then the Swan matches every English household has for lighting fireplaces or gas stoves. We’ll never look at a mundane shopping trip the same way again.
Colorfully striped clutches with oversize tassels followed, which balanced the whole look off nicely. Also on offer were scarves, new to the brand, which were printed with smiley faces.
Then it was showtime: The male models suddenly shifted into dance, toeing the line between the floor and the (still moving) conveyor belt against the strains of Judy Garland’s “Get Happy.” Holes in the wall suddenly had trumpets and basses thrust through them—body-less, though, as the “musicians” were on the other side. The final touch? At the last moment, hands…jazz hands popped through the holes in the floor, causing this writer to jump out of her seat. The audience was filled with grins—Anya Hindmarch helped the fash pack find its funny bone. And she created some of the most covetable bags of the season in the process. Relive Hindmarch’s elaborate runway production with the exclusive debut of her Fall ’14 video, above.
Lie Sang Bong, often referred to as “the Korean McQueen,” is one of Korea’s most revered designers. He was even bestowed the title of Asian Couturier Extraordinaire by the Asian Couture Federation last fall. But while Seoul is home (he launched his namesake line there in 1993) and Paris fashion week his usual stage, the designer took to the pavilion at Lincoln Center this season to take on a new challenge: courting the American market.
Instead of his fanciful gowns and demi-couture designs, Lie sent out a coterie of sensibly dressed girls for Fall ’14. Textured overcoats in techno fabrics and woolen cashmeres, leather paneled sheaths, silk-satin dresses, tailored crepe blouses, and trousers came in a color palette of cobalt blue, molten red, black, and white. Seemingly disparate details like Bauhaus swirls, flesh-colored lace, and graphic printed houndstooth were inspired by natural landscapes, be it an active volcano or Yellowstone National Park’s Grand Prismatic Spring.
“I’ve added more practicality,” Lie told Style.com. “It’s also another luxury to wear things in different ways, so a lot of things are reversible and more wearable.… I think that fits New York.” The designer was also happy to wander the city and meet fashionable New Yorkers, later commenting on the dynamic energy, youth, and artiness of the city. He even revealed top-secret plans for a future stateside home. “I’ve shown in Paris for twelve years, so I felt like we could expand to the U.S. market, and one of the most important reasons is that we’re opening up our flagship store here this fall,” Lie said. “We’re working on it now and I’m very excited.”
Label: AllSaints, designed by Wil Beedle
Need to know: British retailer AllSaints sent out a global message inspired by the torn billboard posters and all-around industrialism of its native East London at a presentation this week, which marked its second showing in New York. The brand is best known for its rocker-turned-city slicker aesthetic, and the Fall ’14 range was a hard-bent attempt on creative director Wil Beedle’s part to bridge the geographic reach that now encompasses its international fan base. A textural interplay of bonded cashmere and leather coats and asymmetrical blazers was on hand, while supple leather skirts and drop-waist trousers provided the structural base. There were more literal interpretations of the theme: thick fuzzy sweaters stripped at the shoulders and an asymmetrical dress with a grid-like pattern all in gray, white, and black, with occasional touches of saffron. The melton biker pants and velvet scuba shoes were highlights to the menswear repertoire, which also had leather bonded onto T-shirts and sweats for sportive flair. The brand also launched its first-ever handbags, which came in printed croc and napa leather. After all, this collection was meant to move.
He says: “These days, people wear the same things to the airport as they do in a nightclub,” explained Beedle. “We need a global versatility. And it’s important that this works as well in New York as it does in London, Berlin, Tokyo, Seoul, and beyond.”
Where to find it: AllSaints stores, Bloomingdale’s, and online at www.us.allsaints.com.
Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.
Label: Baja East, designed by Scott Studenberg and John Targon
Need to know: The Baja East boys couldn’t have timed their NYFW debut better. Their Spring stock, which they showed to retailers last October, has finally hit stores, and they have a New York fashion week window at Barneys to boot. Studenberg and Targon, who come from luxury sales backgrounds (the former worked at Lanvin, the latter at Burberry and Céline) aren’t the fast-talking, highfalutin types. They’re casual and cool, the perfect spokesmen for their unisex label that’s equal parts beach bum and city chic.
For Fall, they’ve expanded their knitwear to include sumptuous cashmere knits and drop cotton tees. Harder elements, like tough luxe leathers, leopard pony hair, distressed flannels, and oxidized metal details, were combined with softer silk crepes, baja maxis, jacquard tunics, and cotton khadis to complete their collection of approximately eighty pieces, all inspired by social tribes. “There’s definitely a more aggressive stance, a little bit more of the urban jungle,” Studenberg said. “And then we go back to really soft, beautiful sunset colors in our cashmeres and cottons.”
Everything is made in New York or Los Angeles and worn effortlessly in its “travel, pack, and go” spirit. Stylist Karen Kaiser also helped the duo to develop edgy leather chokers and bracelets, all of which featured cultured Australian pearls. Total outfits were swapped among the girls and guys to showcase their versatility for both him and her, while graffiti ikat-print beanies and black Nikes completed looks. “It’s back to this whole luxe loungewear idea, where you can be at home or on the beach,” Targon said. “It’s personal time, and that’s the biggest luxury for most people.”
They say: “We would love to have our own Baja East stores!” Studenberg remarked of their future plans. Targon added, “We definitely want to do bags next, and shoes later…but it’s only the two of us doing everything, so we need a team to do anything more than this.”
Where to find it: Barneys New York, Jeffrey, and Kirna Zabête in New York; The Webster in Miami; A’maree’s in Newport Beach, Calif.; and Maxfield in Los Angeles, among others.
Mention Los Angeles-based designer Brian Lichtenberg and two things come to mind. The first, of course, is his line of cheeky, logo-tweaked T-shirts, in which Hermès becomes Homiés, Celine transforms to Feline, and Balmain is swapped for Ballin’. Rihanna wears them. Miley Cyrus is a fan. And they’re sold at such highbrow retailers as Net-a-Porter, Colette, and Browns of London. For those with a slightly longer celeb-fashion memory, Lichtenberg is also a ready-to-wear designer known for some very high-voltage body-con dresses.
He let his ready-to-wear line go when the T-shirts picked up. “It’s a small team that I’m working with,” Lichtenberg explained. “It’s growing, but in the beginning, when it became all about the sweatshirts, the T-shirts, the beanies, the hoodies, it was like we really only had to focus on that or it wasn’t going to get made.” But this evening at The Hub at the Hudson Hotel, Lichtenberg relaunched his now-several-seasons-dormant luxury collection. “It was like, OK, I can keep doing this and not do any more dresses or leggings and just kind of be known as another L.A. sportswear designer,” Lichtenberg related from the couch in the Hudson’s lounge. “But I [wouldn't have been able to] live with myself. I want to do my dresses. I want to do the patchwork and the fun editorial moments. It’s in my blood.”
The collection, of which Lichtenberg gave us an exclusive preview, is a motocross-inspired compilation of mesh, spandex, and fishnet patched leggings; sexed-up bandage dresses; and lambskin leather drop pants (for both girls and guys). A fox fur taupe jacket and more than a few transparent lace and leather evening crop tops make it clear: This is not for a shy client.
The line—first inspired by a pair of vintage moto pants Lichtenberg found at a thrift store (“I love thrift shopping and I love just going to the Rose Bowl and shopping for ripped-up T-shirts,” he said)—is not without its tongue-in-cheek elements. A red-and-white men’s sweatshirt reads “Lichtenboro” in place of Marlboro, while a casual tee is printed with “Be Licked” as a stand-in for Bud Light. “It started with those pants, then it got me into the patchwork of the legs and doing the dresses and also kind of a white-trash element,” Lichtenberg said. “‘Be Licked’ is just a throwback to smoking and beer and all that kind of stuff.”
The designer hopes that fans of his T-shirts will embrace his ready-to-wear. It’s for somebody “who doesn’t take fashion too seriously, but loves to dress up,” Lichtenberg explained. “A free spirit.”