26 posts tagged "Fall 2012"
It might have taken Woody Allen fans some real restraint not to yelp out something about Midnight in Paris when Nicholas Kirkwood was explaining his Fall collection a couple of days ago in his Marais showroom. But as he explains it, the magical era of Chanel and Cocteau was a logical next step from the romantic Pre-Raphaelite color of his pre-fall collection.
He used a white bouclé and surreal Art Deco mask graphics, while a wavy graphic motif that echoed marcelled curls was a more subtle reference. In general, there was a richer sense of romance, like pumps covered in a delicate vintage pale-mint brocade and decadent little mesh and black suede booties with a multicolored metallic floral embroidery (pictured, below). The latter looked like something Marie Antoinette might wear. Kirna Zabête’s Beth Buccini was trying on a pair during a sales appointment to the oohs and ahhs of everyone around her. Another marvel: Kirkwood’s new heel, a black lacquer and gold-trimmed Deco-esque cone with a bow at the top. From Paris to New York, the designer reports that his Washington Street store is now scheduled to open on March 21.
In the past few seasons, jewelry designer Arielle de Pinto has been refining the look of her crocheted metal accessories, reining in her experimental side to create pieces that are both avant-garde and easily wearable. For Fall, the designer took another step in that direction, churning out structural chain and brass necklaces, earrings, and cuffs, all with a newfound elegant sophistication.
“I spent a lot of time in Toronto in the suburbs when I was making this collection,” says the designer, who splits her time between Montreal and New York. “I think that definitely influenced the collection,” she added, citing the building materials and the lichen-colored carpet in her parents’ condo as reference points. And while de Pinto jokes that suburban life isn’t for her, she translated her surroundings into cool, conceptual elements, like riveted brass tubing and brick motifs that bring shape to her organic steel threads. Crisscross scaffolding-inspired necklaces and bracelets are also an eye-pleasing interpretation of her unlikely influences.
In addition to her Fall offerings, de Pinto has created a palladium-plated capsule collection, which features her favorite pieces from past seasons in charcoal. Coming up next from de Pinto: a shoe collaboration with designer Simona Vanth, which features chunky sandals, boots, and platforms garnished with de Pinto’s delicate chain webs.
Eddie Borgo may be showing his Fall 2012 jewelry collection in Paris this week, but the downtown designer is in a perpetual New York state of mind. As are his baubles, which, this season, were inspired by Gotham’s underground metropolis. “There’s this subterranean landscape beneath major cities like New York, from subways to waterways to sewage tunnels. It’s almost the real skeleton of every major metropolis,” Borgo tells Style.com. After studying these intricate systems, the designer turned out a sophisticated range of gold and gunmetal accessories that balance literal translations of his influences with strong, fluid lines and sharp geometry. NYC’s industrial underground appears on a cuff finished with a textured gunmetal plate that resembles a manhole, bracelets garnished with lava rock (which the designer intended to mimic asphalt), screw and mallet earrings, and a necklace crafted to look like a spouting pair of drainpipes.
Borgo notes that this is his most technically complicated collection to date, which is apparent in the assembly of both his Mainline bangle, a sewage pipe-inspired piece that’s fused together with hand-cut pavé crystal rings, and his Expansion Joint cuff (pictured), a mammoth piece of hardware that, bound with rows of raw nuts and bolts, looks as though it was pulled right out of New York’s netherworld.
“Grates, sewage pipes, joint connectors, and coils may be familiar to our eyes but there’s a way to make these sculptural things that are such a part of our daily lives beautiful,” says Borgo, who revealed that he plans to take a tour of New York’s subterrestrial maze when he returns next week. Of course, a bit of bling always helps, too. Nevertheless Borgo succeeds in making the mundane, and even the ugly, into covetable pieces of hardware.
The Berlin-based eyewear label Mykita first made its debut with a metal frame collection and has since rolled out more eccentric styles, like the futuristic, buglike Moncler frames released in December. For Fall, the brand, favorited by the likes of Lady Gaga and Sarah Jessica Parker, looked to the Panto shape of the twenties and thirties, which resurfaced in the late sixties and again in the eighties, and gave it an update. The four new styles revisit classic round frames in stainless steel with red or blue lenses ($472), but the more square versions (pictured) in amber or gray acetate ($462) are our favorites. Style.com has the first look at the latest sunnies, above. To see the full collection, click here.
“The English school uniforms I wore have always stayed with me,” Tocca designer Emma Fletcher (formerly of the beloved Lyell clothing label) tells Style.com. Her complaint, however, about those pleated skirts and button-up shirts is one that is age-old: “If only they were a bit more fitted.”
Thus, for the third season of Tocca ready-to-wear, the Australia-born designer took those classic uniforms and added strong tailoring. “I love that masculine-feminine balance,” she says, mentioning a few of her personal 1960′s Gareth McConnell photos as a reference point for the collection. “This really is the first time I have gone into strong tailoring, and I felt we needed to do it across the entire line. The tailoring incorporates everything from the lace pieced dresses to the plaid suiting pants and jackets.”
She’s kept the delicateness and femininity tied to the Tocca aesthetic but continued her mission of bringing a new sophistication and refinement to the Tocca woman. Highlights include the netting inset blouses and dresses and the smart plaid blazers. “The pieces have an edgy sexiness that feels current while still nodding to that British mod style,” she muses. Also of note, Fletcher recently expanded the line to include handbags, with shoes coming soon.