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April 17 2014

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26 posts tagged "Fall 2012"

Bidermann’s Bijoux

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“Each piece is very sculpted—the work is minutely detailed,” French designer Aurélie Bidermann tells Style.com. She’s referring to her Fall ’12 jewelry collection debuting in Paris on Saturday, but she could easily be referring to the sleek cars that compete in Le Mans—one of the world’s toughest endurance auto races. Using Steve McQueen’s 1971 film Le Mans as a starting point, Bidermann combined the worlds of auto racing and jewelry in this short (below), debuting exclusively on Style.com, starring the daughter of the late photographer Jeanloup Sieff, Sonia Sieff.

While Sieff keeps her eyes on the winding road like a Grand Prix pro, we have ours fixated on her long gold drop earrings and her wristful of bracelets and bangles—both pieces from Bidermann’s new collection and a few of her signature classics. The Fall ’12 bijoux, she tells us, were inspired by the land of the Maya, Inca, and Aztec civilizations as well as Latin America in the pre-Columbian era. “The centerpiece of the collection is the earrings,” she says. And fittingly (since gold flowed more freely in the pre-Columbian era), gold was the main material used in the collection: “This season we are using solid 18-karat gold as well as 18-karat gold vermeil with a patina to give the pieces a lived-in quality.” In Bidermann fashion, she’s also worked emeralds, enamel, jade, and hand-dyed feathers into the mix in the same unusual but chic way she’s been doing since we fell in love with her work years ago. Check out the video to get an exclusive sneak preview of her latest jewels.

Photo: Courtesy of Aurelie Bidermann

Wang Watch

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It’s rare to see new designers joining the Milan fashion week ranks. Rarer still for that designer to be a Chinese woman. Uma Wang, an alumnus of China Textile University and Central Saint Martins in London and the founder of a nearly seven-year-old eponymous line with a flagship store in Shanghai, made her Italian debut on Sunday night. Guests who managed to squeeze her show in between Aquilano.Rimondi and Versus witnessed a collection from the Yohji Yamamoto and Ann Demeulemeester school of fashion. Colors were mostly blacks and neutrals, with a hit or two of red, and her cuts, for the most part, were asymmetric and unconstructed. There was a focus on innovative knitwear and dramatic coats—often in one piece. It’s too soon to say if Wang will be back next season (she showed in Paris once last year), but wherever she ends up, she’s a designer to watch.

Photos: Giovanni Giannoni

The Art Of Erdem

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For his latest collection, Erdem Moralioglu took the pretty girl from his Spring show and turned her on her head. Well, not literally, but the London-based designer toyed with the codes of femininity in a darker way by incorporating latex used for bondage and mixing it with soft lace. And his followers like the results: “So far, the pieces that people seem attracted to are the latex dresses and the trompe l’oeil tweed chiffon pieces,” he tells Style.com.

The road to the final product, however, was a long (and not always easy) one: “The finale dress was a challenge. It took weeks of hand embroidery—we almost didn’t finish it in time,” he says. The Canadian-born designer’s sister, Sara Moralioglu, followed his entire creative process this season, from design concept to the show, and caught it all on film. “This collection was particularly interesting as he would talk about various fabrics, things like latex or colors that you wouldn’t necessarily think of as beautiful,” she says. “There were lots of elements in this season that on paper sounded really off, but then he would transform them into these fabulous dresses and gowns.” Style.com has the exclusive Swarovski-presented film, here.

Photo: Filippo Fior / GoRunway.com

Fausto Puglisi’s Cheerleading Squad Expands

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When Style.com’s editors walked into Milanese designer Fausto Puglisi’s showroom this morning, they arrived to a room full of buyers, editors, and stylists (very different compared to our visit last season, when it was just us). Let’s call it the Super Bowl effect. Puglisi, if you recall, is the man behind M.I.A. and Nicki Minaj’s Super Bowl halftime wardrobes, and based on today’s turnout, it looks like he scored some big points with the fashion set in the process. Luckily for him, his turn as designer to the pop divas was also the starting point for his new collection, which he describes as “Helmut Newton, New Pagan emperor” with “neoclassical influences.”

“The development of this collection was born with B. Akerlund while working on Madonna, Nicki Minaj, and M.I.A’s Super Bowl show,” the designer tells Style.com. That would explain the fetish leather pieces, embellished with crystal starbursts, gold thread, and metals—it was a look quite similar to the Super Bowl outfits. “I pushed to play not only with black plonge leather; there is a gladiator Hellenic American College print and peroxide blond leopard print. It’s unusual to see these prints on leather.” He did more of his now signature Grecian-Roman cheerleader dresses (and did them well), but there’s also structured menswear-inspired jackets, “rock star” biker pants, cashmere twinsets, and eveningwear in the mix. Overall, it was another strong outing for the designer. As for what’s on the horizon, he tells us, “the goal, for sure, is a first shop in the U.S.”

Photos: Courtesy of Fausto Puglisi

Bend It Like Beckham

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Victoria Beckham’s latest collection, which she showed in New York on Sunday, presented a sportier side than we’ve seen from her in the past. Style.com already gave its full review of Beckham’s cheerleader skirts and rib jersey dresses a few days back, but here, check out this exclusive video (below) taken backstage at the show.

Photo: Courtesy of Victoria Beckham