26 posts tagged "Fall 2012"
In the leadup to New York fashion week, designers go through hundreds of behind-the-scenes preparations to arrive at the completed show. This NYFW, we’ve sweet-talked a few of them into giving us a peek behind the curtain as they cast, score, style, and ready their presentations. Here, Olivier Theyskens gives Style.com the backstory on the Theyskens’ Theory collection he unveiled in New York this afternoon.
“We are the day before the show…collection boards with pin symbols: The moon means ‘style only for the show,’ the green hearts mean ‘good style for sales,’ and the orange sun means ‘good for both!’”
“This dress is beautiful but I didn’t keep it for the show because I thought this black velvet was too dramatic. I love that there is access to deep pockets behind zippers.”
“My finale dress doesn’t need a hanger to stand on its own. It’s made out of an outrageously thick polyester satin that is so modern.”
“I had a crush for the first time of my life on fox fur. I promise I will not do it again for a while…”
“Olivia came from Sweden to help me prepare the looks of the show. She’s the sweetest girl in the world.”
As sisters and design partners, Phoebe and Annette Stephens of Anndra Neen enjoy an especially symbiotic relationship based on their shared history growing up in Mexico City among an artistic family, a background which informed their decision to launch the brand in 2009. Since the beginning, the duo has focused on shapes “inspired by the imperfect geometry of nature” and a handcrafted aesthetic. The results are dramatic yet approachable pieces forged from mixed metals, with solid cuff bracelets encrusted with abstract renderings of sea creatures and cascading breastplates etched with wave formations.
During their latest presentation at Milk Studios, Phoebe explained this season’s evolution. “We’re still using a lot of texture, but we also have cleaner silhouettes with the geometric breastplates and the quilted clutch.” The pieces, displayed on sculpted formations evoking driftwood, achieved a careful balance of natural authenticity and a bold statement, much like how Annette describes the women of their rapidly expanding fan base. “She’s fashion-forward and has a strong personality, but is also open-minded. She truly dares to wear.”
“I’m trying to make the process of getting dressed a little simpler,” New York-based designer Norisol Ferrari tells Style.com. “You don’t want to have to fuss—I am a busy woman and I can’t be looking to see where my blouse is all the time. I have to look smart from morning until I get to dinner.”
It was that personal need for smart, transitional separates that inspired the Venezuela-born designer to launch her namesake bespoke line in 2009. “I had been looking for the perfect coat, and after searching everywhere I just decided to make one. The first day I wore it, I walked out of my apartment and I had a woman chase me down the street asking me where I got it—within three weeks I had three custom orders,” she says. Since launching with a ten-piece collection, her luxe but functional jackets have caught the eye of Maxfield buyers (where the lines is sold exclusively) and high-profile women alike.
On Tuesday, Ferrari is set to roll out her latest collection at Lincoln Center. She already gave Style.com a look at what’s to come: “Pockets in absolutely everything—I thought a lot about that,” she says. “My motorcycle jacket has an iPad pocket, seriously.” The jackets come in strong, masculine men’s fabrics, tempered by lace, stretch silk, and organza tailoring details, a combination inspired by “Jean Harlow meets Tina Turner in Mad Max,” she explains. Ferrari has a sharp eye for detail and a strong understanding of a good fit, and it shows in her work. As she continues to grow as a designer, she is one we have our eyes on.
In the leadup to New York fashion week, designers go through hundreds of behind-the-scenes preparations to arrive at the completed show. This NYFW, we’ve sweet-talked a few of them into giving us an exclusive peek behind the curtain as they cast, score, style, and ready their presentations. Next up: Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders.
“Nicole hard at work.”
“Tina working through the casting board.”
“Lucy, our tailor, having deep thoughts by the sewing machine.”
Pier 57, the venue for Joseph Abboud’s Fall 2012 runway show, is positively enormous: Is this the size of expectations for creative director Bernardo Rojo? It’s the Spaniard’s third collection as creative director, not to mention the first time the hallowed menswear brand has sent a collection down a catwalk since 2005—a punk-inflected show that Rojo has publicly acknowledged as “controversial” but didn’t seem particularly eager to discuss before the new show yesterday.
And who can blame him? The latest collection is about transformation: The middle-aged silhouette one associates with the brand has gotten some needed pruning, with jackets nipped in at the waist and trousers narrowed. Rojo hasn’t strayed too far from the label’s roots, either; those pants are pleated, dammit, and Abboud loyalists will recognize the interplay of traditional patterns (including plenty of checks) and textures, grays, and camel tones. The chunky sweaters, another of what Rojo calls the brand’s “intrinsic elements,” haven’t gone anywhere, either.
If a single accent signals the new direction, it’s the ultra-wide jacket lapels. A reference to the dapper thirties and early-forties style that Rojo took as this season’s inspiration, they arguably stand out even more in the formal looks, which the designer rolled out four models at a time on a triple-wide brick catwalk.
“I wanted to make sure the clothes are worth it, are perfect, and are ready to be shown in the right way,” Rojo said—apparently, that means an environment in which the creative director can swing through the VIP lounge before the show to chat with Kellan Lutz about the Twilight actor’s Hawaiian vacation.
Rojo threw out a word that seems just right for the place Joseph Abboud wants to be right now: “ageless.” Striding down the runway to the sort of music that might play during a climactic scene in a James Bond movie, that’s how he saw the models. “I don’t think most of them look their age. When you see them with their skateboard, yes. But very different when you see them dressed up.”