66 posts tagged "Fall 2013"
The Swarovski Collective has helped over 150 fashion talents since its inception in 1999. This season, the crystal house’s initiative has given its support (and its stones) to fourteen cutting-edge talents. To celebrate and document the designers’ creative processes, Swarovski has produced behind-the-scenes films that follow every label on its journey down the Fall ’13 runway. We’ve been debuting exclusive looks at a selection of Swarovski’s videos from each of the four fashion weeks. For our final installment in the series, we bring you up-and-coming designer Masha Ma, who debuted her Fall collection in Paris on Wednesday. To view all of our Fall ’13 Swarovski films, click here.
Label: Sophia Webster
Need to Know: Twenty-eight-year-old Sophia Webster used to be Nicholas Kirkwood’s right-hand gal. Last season, however, she struck out on her own with a signature accessories collection that’s produced in Brazil. The concept behind the designer’s Fall ’13 presentation was “fairy-tale Narnia,” which should tell you almost everything you need to know about her whimsical, upbeat wares. Unicorn handbags and rainbows were part of Webster’s Fall fantasy. And a combination of girly florals, iridescent finishes, and bows made for some seriously princess-y pumps that would make Barbie pale with envy.
She Says: “Fall 2013 is a bit of Jackson Pollock meets Marie Antoinette, but I was also inspired by films like Edward Scissorhands and Clueless.”
Where to Find It: Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, and Saks Fifth Avenue
Newcomer Tanya Taylor presented her third collection of feminine, vintage-inspired wares at the MoMA this season. But she wanted an auxiliary artistic outlet to convey her concept. “I always think it’s nice to add an extra element to explain what you’re thinking,” Taylor told Style.com. She settled on a retro fashion film, which played off her Fall ’13 inspiration, French artist Jean-Pierre Raynaud. “He used a lot of grids and had a modular, linear approach to art,” said Taylor. “So the concept of the film was this girl with really bright clothes and a quirky personality within a very sterile grid.”
Directed by Brina Thurston and David Riley in collaboration with creative directors Arch & Loop, the film and its minimalist backdrop let the designer’s energizing mishmash of checks, floral prints, sixties silhouettes, pink fur (a new textile for Taylor), and considered details (crystal embellishments, eyelets, leather collars, and driving gloves) shine. Model Mina Cvetkovic has a Bardot essence about her, with dark eyes, a modern bouffant, and an enduring expression of ennui. “She’s kind of mysterious. She pulls you in and makes you wonder what she’s thinking,” said Taylor. But Cvetkovic and the designer’s clothes aren’t the only stars of the film—Taylor’s 5-year-old Persian cat, Oscar, makes a cameo. And boy, does he ham it up. “He just happened to be in the studio that day, and we thought, Why not throw him in a few shots?” she explained. “Now, though, his head’s getting pretty big.” Watch Taylor’s new collection, and Oscar’s grand debut, in her Fall film, which premieres exclusively above.
Nicolas Kirkwood has been pondering luxury materials of late. And his musings about fur, lace, and python resulted in a sumptuous and over-the-top Fall '13 collection. Take, for instance, his towering black ankle boots with Baroque embroidery, his open-toe heels garnished with tufts of purple fur, or the fin-like lace that grew out of some of his sky-high pumps. On the classic side, there were pearl-trimmed offerings, and some of Kirkwood’s details, like sharp zigzags, provided a graphic punch. “I really approach my collections by just doodling, and those lines evolve into shapes kind of organically,” explained the designer, adding that he enjoys exploring new techniques. “This was my second try at embroidery, and it was really fun.”
Speaking of fun new things, back in January, Kirkwood debuted his first men’s collection. The designer lifted some techniques from his women’s line for the range, like ticking out patterns in tiny gold studs or using black and blue zigzags to jazz up a classic brogue. The reaction to those models was so strong among Kirkwood’s female friends that he spun out some of them, like the Chelsea boots, for women, too.
Label: Courrèges, run by Jacques Bungert and Frédéric Torloting
Need to Know: André Courrèges turns ninety this week, but the house he ran with his wife Coqueline for over fifty years is attempting to work up a youthquake. Since it was acquired a couple of years ago by business partners and former ad men Jacques Bungert and Frédéric Torloting, the label has been quietly boosting its wares on all fronts, reimagining the Courrèges look in modern cuts and fabrics for a new generation. For instance, the fall collection includes a black and white woven shift and white zip-up dress in a specially-made textured silver weave, as well as the house’s iconic cape, vinyl bomber, and “100″ dress in vibrant hues. Colorful sunglasses and handbags plus reborn fragrances round out the current offerings. And there are even rumblings of possible new iterations of the electric cars the designer began toying with in the late sixties.
He Says: “We’re not going the traditional route. There’s no star designer, no fashion shows,” notes Bungert. “I like to say we’re ‘making haste slowly’ in building a creative platform.”
Where to Find It: Exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue and www.courreges.com.