66 posts tagged "Fall 2013"
Fall 2013 marks Lebanese-born, Paris-raised Mira Mikati’s first ready-to-wear collaboration with traditionally French brand Façonnable. Titled Ç x Façonnable, the capsule explores the label’s fun, feminine side. “I wanted to go back to the brand’s French identity,” said Mikati of her “very blue, very Riviera” collection. She started by mining the house’s necktie archives, using vintage stripes and patterns for trim on a trench and a scuba top. Mikati even turned a necktie into a belt, which was shown with a pair of pajama-style evening separates. (The outfit looked so comfortable, one might be tempted to actually sleep in it.) For brisk fall days, there was a toggle coat with jacquard lining, a wool Perfecto, and outerwear with thick ribbed knit sleeves. “Façonnable is all about a relaxed, fresh, high-energy look,” noted Mikati, who knows a thing or two about what’s out there and—more importantly—what’s missing. A fashion designer by training, and cofounder of the concept store Plum in Beirut, Mikati already has a keen sense of the look women will be craving next season. What might that be, exactly? “Less black!” she laughs.
Accessories designer (and Ottoman princess) Yaz Bukey has been spending time in Istanbul of late. And the city’s landmark nineteenth-century hotel Pera Palace was the starting point for her Fall 2013 Yazbukey collection, which she’s titled “Murder She Wrote.” The designer donned several of her new Plexiglas wares at her party at the Maison Darré last night, including a heart-and-dagger headpiece that grazed the temple of anyone who attempted to kiss her cheek. “My sister lived in Pera Palace years ago, before the renovation,” she recalled. “It was eerie, kind of haunted, and there was a legend about a missing key. Now, it’s a luxury hotel, but I was thinking about the way it used to be, because that’s where Agatha Christie lived while writing Murder on the Orient Express. This collection is an homage to her and to Angela Lansbury, both.”
At the back of the boutique, a living tableau of characters inspired by a Yazbukey take on the board game Clue (caricatures with names like Agatha Fletcher, Poison Yvette, Professor Doremi, and Crazy Scarlett) camped it up around a Plexiglas piano keyboard. Equally notable as the theatric display were Bukey’s figurative necklaces, plastrons, and handmade handbags inlaid with images of lipstick, pearls, eyeglasses, or—the designer’s personal favorite—a handful of detective novels. Burning on a side table was Bukey’s recent collaboration with Cire Trudon—a candle she said was inspired by a fifties pinup on the back of her boyfriend’s motorcycle. Its scent? “Hair spray, lipstick, and leather.”
Andrew Gn spent two years perfecting his first handbag range, which he debuted on the runway last Sunday. “I’m a bag boy,” the designer joked during a studio visit. “I really wanted something beautiful, something that reflected the couture-like ambience of my clothes. But it also had to be really functional, because a bag has to hold everything. For me, that includes my sketch pad, my iPad, some caramels, and a cashmere scarf,” he explained. “When I travel, my bag’s my home.”
Gn kept all this in mind when conceiving his four Fall handbag styles. The designer offers the Cargo, a large bag with military-inspired side pockets; the streamlined Duchess; the versatile Day ’N’ Night clutch; and the Pocket, a diminutive evening bag with a semiprecious-stone-studded chain strap. Rich color is a Gn hallmark, and he chose shades like cognac, rust, bottle green, midnight blue, and purple for his handsome box-calf wares. The designer also came up with a clever way to make his mark: In lieu of a logo, he punctuated the bags with faceted tigereye, amethyst, and chrysocolla studs, each of which is hand-cut in Florence.
Andrew Gn’s handbags range between $850 and $1,800, and will launch with the Fall collection.
The Swarovski Collective has helped over 150 fashion talents since its inception in 1999. This season, the crystal house’s initiative has given its support (and its stones) to fourteen cutting-edge talents. To celebrate and document the designers’ creative processes, Swarovski has produced behind-the-scenes films that follow every label on its journey down the Fall ’13 runway. We’ve been debuting exclusive looks at a selection of Swarovski’s videos from each of the four fashion weeks. Next up is Maxime Simoëns, who showed his Fall collection on Sunday. To view all of our Fall ’13 Swarovski films, click here.
Label: Arzu Kaprol
Need to Know: Turkish designer Arzu Kaprol racked up eleven thousand followers on Twitter last year, and it got her thinking about the world of social media. “You’re surrounded by friends, fans, and followers, yet you are alone. I got to wondering, Is it really real?” she said in her brand-new Paris showroom yesterday. Those musings lead to “Together Alone,”—the name of both her Fall ’13 collection and its signature print. Her considered swirling pattern turned up in black on yellow dresses and in silver on a violet frock, blouse, and swing coat. She also offered futuristic looks, like a silver jacquard shift; structured, textured jackets with nipped waists; and graphic interpretations of Le Smoking that featured Swarovski Crystal-paneled fabrics and triangle cutouts.
The third generation in a family of designing women, Kaprol counts eight shops back home but remains relatively unknown in the West. That is likely to change soon; she is headed to New York for a trunk show later this month, and come fall, her collection will bow at Bergdorf Goodman.
She Says: “I’m not interested in being ‘a moment.’ I want people to take the time to look at my pieces close up.”
Where to Find It: Harrods, Harvey Nichols, and Bergdorf Goodman