33 posts tagged "Fashion East"
The white shirt is having a moment at LC:M—but it’s not the boring wardrobe staple kind. First up was Massimo Casagrande, who put rubber and graphic details on his impeccably tailored tops at Fashion East. Then there was Alastair Guy’s new exhibition, White Shirts, which debuted via a private view at the Century Club last night. The photographer lensed the likes of David Gandy, Luke Evans, and Todd Lynn in crisp white wares, and showed us how the right subject can make the oft ordinary look extraordinary.
Emerging brand Palmer//Harding (designed by Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding), too, proved just how covetable a white shirt can be. “We feel the white shirt is a neglected bit of a man’s wardrobe,” offered Palmer. “Yes, they can be beautifully done and impeccably tailored, but they are always thought of as layering pieces, and we want to make the white shirt the star of the show.”
For their second official menswear collection, Palmer and Harding aimed to inject the ease and attitude of a T-shirt into more traditional shirting options. And they did just that with an artfully constructed button-down with a built-in jersey tee feature, asymmetrical options, their now-signature spiral pleat back, and their amusing reverse mullet shirt. “Yellow in the front is the party bit and white in the back is the business end,” explained Palmer.
Trousers with neon belt-loop details, a chartreuse biker jacket, and a teal suede tunic rounded out the collection, and demonstrated why the duo have already caught the eye of stockists like Dover Street Market and Ikram. “I find that men can be quite timid in their fashion choices,” said Palmer. “They want something traditional, but they also need something a little fashion-y to break up the same old, same old. Our collection is still safe—but we hope there’s a lot of modernity in it.”
Long gone are the days when skirts on men used to shock. Now we have aprons, dangly double tribal earrings, balaclavas, and patent-leather chokers. Or, at least, that’s what we saw at Fashion East’s Fall ’14 menswear installations in London today. Lulu Kennedy’s emerging-designer initiative welcomes three new talents this season: jeweler Roxanne Farahmand, shirtmaker Massimo Casagrande, and CSM grad Nicomede Talavera (above, left) join Fashion East veterans Tom Ryling (above, right) and Liam Hodges. These three may be freshmen, but they each offered that daring, eyebrow-raising edge that has become synonymous with the platform.
Talavera cited artist Robert Morris as inspiration, but his lineup felt more Star Trek: The Original Series. Graphic, Spock-like sweaters, leather chokers, too-long spliced pant hems over Vans, three-quarter-length aprons draped just so, and color-blocked details reminded us why the word directional was probably invented for Fashion East. Casagrande took cues from artist Adam McEwen’s photographs of New York sidewalks and turned out wares with studs, graphics, and rubber details.
Farahmand, who used to work with Dominic Jones, looked like she had the Fast and the Furious on her brain—speed was her Fall ’14 theme. Tattooed models with menacing haircuts and even scarier oversize knuckle-dusters were draped over fast cars, showing off her rings, necklaces, and bracelets. Amusing under-the-armpit body harnesses and straps over trainers looked so cool, we didn’t care if there was a purpose behind them—and we were too afraid to ask.
Ryling, meanwhile, put balaclavas on his models. He also showed some great graffitied and paint-splattered jean jackets, and trousers with red chiffon overlays. Rounding it out was Hodges, who carried on his theme from last season—no “high-borns,” please. Steel-toed workman boots, lashings of electrical tape, cracked leather, hoodies, and boxy silhouettes made Hodges’ boys look like they were ready to rumble at any time.
This morning, NEWGEN, the British Fashion Council’s Topshop-sponsored emerging talent scheme, announced the seven new talents who will receive sponsorship to present their Fall ’14 collections during London fashion week in February. Fledgling designers and brands including 1205, Marques’Almeida, Lucas Nascimento and Simone Rocha (left) will receive support for their runway shows while designer Ryan Lo, a Fashion East alum, will receive funding for a presentation. Meanwhile, Claire Barrow (another Fashion East grad) and Danielle Romeril will house their new collections in an exhibition space. The NEWGEN committee, chaired by journalist Sarah Mower, MBE, selects designers based on their creative strengths and distinct points of view. Past awardees have included Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou, Nicholas Kirkwood, Jonathan Saunders, and J.W. Anderson.
Fashion East, Lulu Kennedy’s London-based young designer initiative, announced its Fall ’14 lineup today, and the Topshop-sponsored platform is adding two new up-and-comers to the mix. Helen Lawrence (who was featured on Style.com for Spring ’14) and Louise Alsop will join Fashion East veteran Ashley Williams in presenting their collections this February. Lawrence (left), a graduate of Central Saint Martins’ MA program, is best known for her vibrant knitwear, and for the past few seasons, has been working with much-touted rising menswear designer Craig Green. Alsop, meanwhile, graduated from the University of Westminster in 2013, and boasts an intriguing dark, grungy, layered aesthetic. The pair of talents replaces Fashion East grads Claire Barrow and Ryan Lo, who completed their third and final season with the initiative in September.
It’s that time of year again…no, we’re not talking about holiday cheer and cozy family get-togethers. We’re referring to the menswear collections, which will kick off in London on January 6. Today, Lulu Kennedy’s young designer platform Fashion East announced its Fall ’14 men’s lineup, which will feature returning talents Liam Hodges and Tom Ryling, as well as newcomers including jeweler Roxanne Farahmand, shirt-maker Massimo Casagrande, and Nicomede Talavera (left), a Central Saint Martins graduate who will present his ready-to-wear collection with the initiative. And this season the menswear platform, which was founded in 2012, will have a little extra kick, thanks to a new collaboration with Red Bull Catwalk Studio. Given the jet lag, sleepless nights, and general feeling of exhaustion that tend to accompany fashion weeks, we hope the sponsorship means complementary energy drinks.