2 posts tagged "Fashionista"
Unfortunately, The Hills‘ opinionated but not terribly enlightened Kristin Cavallari launches her new fashion show, The Fabulist, on E! tonight. This morning, Fashionista tapped into an interesting conversation: What on earth gives celebrities such as Cavallari the gall to knight themselves fashion experts? The story’s headline asked, “Are Celebrities the New Fashion Critics?” And while the article went on to defend reputable, old-school journalists, like Style.com’s own Tim Blanks, it seemed to imply that the public may be inclined to turn to celebrities as their go-to fashion reviewers rather than, well, actual critics.
Celebrities’ fashion thoughts are often (but, of course, not always) molded by their skilled stylists and sponsors. And while Fashionista did not suggest that stars are the educated voice of fashion reason, it did refer to them as fashion critics. This caused me to raise an eyebrow, and it leads us to the question: What is a fashion critic? Correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe a fashion critic is an informed, hopefully unbiased individual who can discuss a collection’s or garment’s merits and/or downfalls in both a broader fashion context and, more important, a broader cultural context. It takes a certain knowledge base to do that.
During a 2010 interview with Style.com’s editor in chief Dirk Standen, Cathy Horyn noted, “Right now we have a lot of people who are coming at [fashion journalism] from left field, and they can have some really wonderful insights into fashion and they can see it from their generation, which is fantastic…But then there’s also just the question of the knowledge about it, the span of time, so you can make judgments and conclusions that reflect the sense of history.” I hardly think that Kerry Washington can do that while judging Project Runway. Kelly Osbourne certainly doesn’t do it on Fashion Police, and even the savvy Rihanna doesn’t bring that kind of expertise to the table on her show, Styled to Rock. Celebrities’ commentary about the sartorial coups or disasters we see on the red carpet or reality TV are indeed entertaining, but criticism isn’t merely about cutting takedowns and gushing praise—it’s about the bigger picture.
“Traditional criticism set standards, so traditional critics wielded enormous amounts of power,” Tim Blanks once told me. “But the role of fashion criticism now is to express an opinion as lucidly, as graphically, and as entertainingly as you can.”
Stars are undoubtedly fashion influencers—just look at how Rihanna’s choice to wear Melitta Baumeister and Hyein Seo in Paris raised the up-and-comers’ profiles. But critics? Hardly. Now, I’m not saying that celebrity, or general, opinions are invalid or unimportant. I’m just saying that they’re not criticism. There is room for all sorts of musings—and all are welcome. The viewpoints of celebrities, consumers, style obsessives, critics, and beyond all work together to create a narrative, however, looking back thirty years from now, Cavallari’s comment during E!’s Oscars preshow that “Lupita has been killing it this season” won’t really tell us anything.
Will the general public gravitate toward celebrities rather than journalists for criticism? Sure, they’ll tune in to TV shows and celeb Twitter accounts to be amused (it is funny watching Joan Rivers rip apart red-carpet looks), but if they want the facts, they’ll come to the critics. As Vanessa Friedman told me in an interview last week, “There will always be a need for some sort of analysis and an informed opinion, and despite all the white noise and opinions we see on social media, people still want real information and facts.” I have to believe that this hunger for knowledge isn’t in spite of fashion’s increasing presence and importance in popular and celebrity culture, it’s because of it.
We need to be careful how we throw around the phrase “fashion critic.” Let’s not do to it what fashion writing has done to “iconic” or “chic”—that is to say, make it meaningless. Because what critics write does have meaning, and purpose, and I’d like to keep it that way.
In which we track the way that certain fashion news stories are recycled around the Web.
Today’s secondhand news actually began back in November, when Kate Lanphear left her post as the style director of Elle. Since then, rumors have spun about Lanphear applying for a job at The Wall Street Journal, then potentially heading to a start-up magazine called Editorialist (we’re still not 100 percent clear on what that is—all that exists is a dormant Web site). Early on, Fashionista (who deserves props for breaking Lanphear’s Elle departure) suggested that Lanphear might head to T Magazine based on a lighthearted shrimp-related tweet and Instagram that the magazine’s new editor in chief, Deborah Needleman, posted in September:
— deborah needleman (@debbieneedles) September 17, 2012
Then, this morning, freelance journalist Jim Shi tweeted the news that Kate Lanphear was joining the T team:
Kate Lanphear has joined T: The New York Times Style Magazine as style director. She’ll be at the upcoming women’s shows with Team T.
— Jim Shi (@jimshi809) January 7, 2013
Providing quasi-confirmation, the news was instantly re-tweeted by T Magazine and then, because Twitter is seemingly the new press release, reported by Refinery29:
Kate Lanphear’s got a new job: r29.co/ZgXO3V
— refinery29 (@Refinery29) January 7, 2013
Not to be outdone, Fashionista and The Cut jumped on the bandwagon shortly thereafter:
Former Elle style director Kate Lanphear has just bagged herself a brand new gig! Find out where: bit.ly/RCeDYf
— Fashionista.com (@Fashionista_com) January 7, 2013
— The Cut (@TheCut) January 7, 2013
So who’s the winner of today’s secondhand news sweepstakes? Is it Fashionista for predicting the move way back in November? Or Jim Shi for successfully spreading his Twitter handle across the Internet? Actually, the winner is Kate Lanphear. A representative for The New York Times just confirmed via e-mail (not Twitter) that Lanphear is indeed heading to T as style director. Needleman has made several new hires (for instance, she brought Joe McKenna on as fashion director at large) since taking over for Sally Singer in September.