9 posts tagged "Fausto Puglisi"
At 8 a.m. on Sunday morning, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana held a press conference at which attendance had been all but mandated weeks in advance. The early, un-Italian hour was no doubt meant to indicate the seriousness of the occasion, as was a lineup of speakers that included Patrizio Bertelli, Diego Della Valle, and Gildo Zegna, all of whom have joined the organization’s new board. Essentially, these captains of one of Italy’s most important and cherished industries have banded together to reinvigorate Milan’s increasingly hidebound fashion weeks. “I’ve heard the word boring,” Zegna acknowledged, though he insisted that wasn’t the case. The speeches were heavy on sweeping statements and light on concrete details, which provoked the assembly of sleep-deprived journalists into a volley of probing questions. Bertelli had earlier compared his fellow board members to “senators of fashion,” and he might have been thinking, Et tu, Suzy? as the International New York Times‘ Suzy Menkes led a round of interrogation into everything from Milan’s inhospitality to young designers to its perceived shortcomings on the digital front. Bertelli is no pushover, and he gave as good as he got. When a French journalist asked why we were only hearing from old men (Angela Missoni was a mostly silent presence on the board today), the Prada CEO told him he’d be a dangerous old man himself if he didn’t change his attitude, and then unexpectedly pointed out that Italy was the first country to abolish slavery, in the 1300s. By the end, one attendee was muttering, “Business as usual,” but if the first step to recovery is admitting you have a problem, then today’s announcement should be welcomed as a positive development. Certainly there is enough firepower and entrepreneurial know-how on this new board to solve world peace, let alone bring new energy to a fashion week. Zegna stressed that the process would be a dialogue and said suggestions would be encouraged. In that spirit, here are seven modest proposals for improving Milan fashion week.
1. Lure young, international designers to Milan.
Menkes wondered how Milan would be replacing Burberry and Alexander McQueen, two brands that have recently decamped back to their native London. But the city’s relatively uncrowded schedule could be one of its biggest assets. Given how ridiculously packed the New York and, increasingly, London and Paris schedules have become, you would think any number of hot young brands could be persuaded to believe that they’d have a better chance of standing out in Milan. If access to Italy’s unparalleled production expertise were thrown in as part of the deal, who could resist?
2. Take the show on the road.
The British Fashion Council and, to some extent, the U.S.-based CFDA have done a good job of promoting their designers abroad. As part of the London Showrooms events, a dozen young U.K. talents have even careened around Hong Kong together on a bus. While there are barely enough young Milan-based designers to fill a Smart car let alone a minibus, and its more established designers are already well known internationally, it shouldn’t be too hard to come up with the right kind of touring exhibition. Picture a mix of up-and-comers such as Umit Benan, Andrea Pompilio, and Fausto Puglisi; some cult brands like MP Massimo Piombo and Aspesi; and a couple of designer offshoots like Versace’s Versus line and Lapo Elkann’s highly covetable new made-to-measure collaboration with Gucci—all introduced by a charming, high-profile figure (yes, we’re talking to you, Lapo). That would go some way to showing the rest of the world the extent of Italy’s ambitions. Continue Reading “Seven Suggestions For Improving Milan Fashion Week” »
Emanuel Ungaro is set to make a big comeback next season, and this time around, Lindsay Lohan is not involved. Aeffe has signed on to relaunch the French fashion house with the help of its newly announced creative director, up-and-coming talent Fausto Puglisi. Of the Sicilian designer (the man behind many Madonna and Anna Dello Russo getups), Aeffe chairman Massimo Ferretti tells WWD, “Emanuel Ungaro is a brand that has left a significant mark and still has a lot to say. Puglisi is a young talent with an international visibility, but with strong roots in our Latin world, and who will be able to turn it into a new and contemporary line.” The license for the global production and distribution for the line, an agreement between Ungaro owner Asim Abdullah and his investment vehicle Aimz, will be active for a seven-year period with option to renew.
Madonna kicked off the North American portion of her worldwide MDNA tour last night in Philadelphia and brings it to NYC next Thursday (September 6), just as fashion week gets under way. It’s fitting timing, given that her extravagant show might as well be a runway show in itself. Her longtime stylist and collaborator Arianne Phillips helped curate custom costumes by everyone from Alexander Wang to Jeremy Scott to Fausto Puglisi, totaling up to eight outfit changes per show (her dancers reportedly switch 10 to 15 times). And since Madge is never one to go light on shine, many of the costumes are decadently embellished with Swarovski Crystal elements (over 315,000 of them used on the tour). Here, get an exclusive backstage look at how the sparkle all happens.
When Style.com’s editors walked into Milanese designer Fausto Puglisi’s showroom this morning, they arrived to a room full of buyers, editors, and stylists (very different compared to our visit last season, when it was just us). Let’s call it the Super Bowl effect. Puglisi, if you recall, is the man behind M.I.A. and Nicki Minaj’s Super Bowl halftime wardrobes, and based on today’s turnout, it looks like he scored some big points with the fashion set in the process. Luckily for him, his turn as designer to the pop divas was also the starting point for his new collection, which he describes as “Helmut Newton, New Pagan emperor” with “neoclassical influences.”
“The development of this collection was born with B. Akerlund while working on Madonna, Nicki Minaj, and M.I.A’s Super Bowl show,” the designer tells Style.com. That would explain the fetish leather pieces, embellished with crystal starbursts, gold thread, and metals—it was a look quite similar to the Super Bowl outfits. “I pushed to play not only with black plonge leather; there is a gladiator Hellenic American College print and peroxide blond leopard print. It’s unusual to see these prints on leather.” He did more of his now signature Grecian-Roman cheerleader dresses (and did them well), but there’s also structured menswear-inspired jackets, “rock star” biker pants, cashmere twinsets, and eveningwear in the mix. Overall, it was another strong outing for the designer. As for what’s on the horizon, he tells us, “the goal, for sure, is a first shop in the U.S.”