5 posts tagged "Fivestory"
Style.com contributing editor and party reporter Darrell Hartman circles the city and, occasionally, the globe in the line of duty. In a regular column, he reports on the topics—whatever they may be at whatever given moment—that are stirring the social set.
“Yes, the lad was premature,” goes a line from The Picture of Dorian Gray. “He was gathering his harvest while it was yet spring.”
I doubt I’m the first person who has, upon meeting Dorian Grinspan, thought of Oscar Wilde’s fable about precious youth. This Dorian is real. The 20-year-old founder and editor Out of Order magazine, he’s been sowing his seeds early—and some of the fashion world’s biggest influencers are taking notice.
Grinspan was born in Paris and came to the U.S. to study at Yale. But while an earlier generation might’ve chosen to wait for a diploma before launching into the world, Grinspan didn’t see the point. “I didn’t come [to the U.S.] wanting to do a magazine. I arrived at Yale and I was really, really bored,” he told Women’s Wear Daily. [Full disclosure: this reporter spent four years at Yale, and did not find it boring.] Grinspan will start his senior year in the Fall, majoring in American Studies, but he recently took an apartment in New York, and says that thanks to some Franco-esque schedule jiggering will be spending just three days a week in New Haven.
Youth these days! Grinspan is already a darling of the industry. WWD is only one of several publications to anoint him an up-and-comer, and his biannual is already carried by the likes of Opening Ceremony and Colette, and the second issue, which Grinspan launched last week, boasts the sort of top-shelf contributors of which many start-up outlets dream. Among the photo credits and profile subjects are Larry Clark, Ryan McGinley, and Olivier Theyskens. These are gets worth bragging about, even if Grinspan is modest, or at least PR-savvy, enough not to. “It’s actually funny to see how accessible these people are and how much they want to help,” he told me at last week’s launch party at Fivestory, an uptown boutique. (His fashion-model looks—literally, as in repped by DNA—aren’t the reason, but surely they can’t hurt.) Gus Van Sant, he added, had been “really interested, and we almost shot something,” but the scheduling hadn’t worked out.
Grinspan has plenty more influential supporters, including fellow editors. “Stephen Gan has been amazing to me,” he said. And after meeting Stefano Tonchi at a party in Cannes last year, Grinspan appeared in W this spring. Starting in the fall, he said, he’ll be writing for the magazine’s website. Quick work. For a moment, Grinspan did pay some dues—as an intern for Carine Roitfeld. Among the people met while working there was photographer Michael Avedon, who shot a story for the new issue. (Avedon is just a year older than Grinspan, and the great-grandson of Richard.)
Grinspan holds himself well—and tends to do so in the right company. Cynthia Rowley, who hosted an after-party of sorts for the magazine at her boutique-cum-sweet-shop, Curious, couldn’t exactly remember how she’d first met him. She was pretty sure his boyfriend had interned at her husband’s gallery. In any case, Rowley said, she’d gotten to know him through “the Brant kids.”
How has Grinspan done it, in an industry with fewer and fewer footholds for young talent? “I don’t think there’s a secret. I feel like everything is so circumstantial,” he explained. When pressed, he added, “Both my mom and my dad have a lot of connections in fashion, I guess.” His mother, a graphic designer, got him interested in clothes and style early on. His father, a lawyer, worked “for a long time” with BCBG. And there’s his godmother, Numéro editor–in-chief Babette Djian. “She’s been great,” Grinspan admits. “We go to fashion shows together if we both have an invite. But I would never call her up and say, ‘Please take me to Jean Paul Gaultier!’ That’s not what I want our relationship to be.”
If things keep going the way they’re going, the occasional missing invite won’t be an issue. And why shouldn’t they? Grinspan has a way about him, evident in the manner in which he politely escorted Clark up the stairs at Rowley’s party and posed with him for photos. Clark, like Rowley, couldn’t recall how he and Grinspan had first started talking, but he did remember meeting Grinspan face to face. “He’s very enthusiastic, but not overbearing at all—just a nice young man,” he said. And one more likely to make a splash than all the others.
Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding launched Palmer//Harding four seasons ago as a line that strictly offered shirts. Since, the London-based Central Saint Martins graduates have won NEWGEN sponsorship (they presented on schedule at London fashion week for the first time this season) and their constantly evolving range has been picked up by high-profile retailers like Dover Street Market, Fivestory, Louis Boston, and Moda Operandi. Looking at their Fall '13, it’s not hard to see why. The collection—their most comprehensive to date—features clean, voluminous blouses with long, sometimes floor-length trains, sculpted skirts, and shapely jackets in adventurous textiles (the most exciting of which was a “tarred” wool that Harding likened to antique leather or a “sticky cinema floor”), and sharp black trousers.
In case there was any doubt, the designers have made it clear that they can do more than just shirts. Heck, even the shirts are more than just shirts. One cotton poplin oxford looks simple from the front and then, surprise!, it’s backless. Some styles came with intricate embellishments on the sleeves, collar, or waist, and other silk/cotton voile versions incorporated gentle pleating to achieve a fluid femininity. “There are 15 different shirts in the collection. The shirt is still the star,” said Palmer. Harding added, “We just wanted to show people more of our mood, and our world, and we needed the separates to push that.”
The Brothers Orley—Alex, an alumnus of Rag & Bone, and Matthew, of Thom Browne—staked their label on color. “Our customers are Matthew and I,” Alex said. “I don’t wear any black.” So their debut collection of knits for Fall 2012 skewed bright: cherry red, chrome yellow, orange, and teal, to start, occasionally offset (but never neutralized) but plainer shades of camel and navy. It won them the attention of Chris Gibbs, the menswear genius behind L.A.’s Union, who also consults on men’s for the new New York concept store Fivestory, and both will carry the first collection, which is all made in Italy and knitted in cotton, cotton/cashmere, and cotton/silk yarns. (The Orleys, along with their third partner, Samantha Florence, formerly of sales at Helmut Lang, will be stationed at Union Los Angeles for Fashion’s Night Out as well.) With the success of their first range, the trio plunged into Spring, keeping the color story strong. Striped T-shirts in pastel tones are standouts of the new collection, as are all of those pieces inwhat looks like a sixties Palm Beach floral and turns out to be a takeoff of traditional Islamic architecture motifs (above). They all forsake the gruff, mountain-man strictness that’s been a vogue in American menswear for sometime for something a bit more freeform and fun—which may be why the line’s stylist, Sara Moonves, chose to show it on men and women both for their new lookbook, and Distractions in Aspen picked up several Fall pieces in girl-friendly small sizes. But as ambitious lines do, Orley is planning to get bigger as well as smaller. Knit ties in matching motifs will launch Orley’s e-commerce site for the holiday season. And, say the brothers, “we hope to do a ready to wear collection sooner than later.”
Orley’s debut collection arrives this month at Fivestory, New York, fivestoryny.com; Distractions, Aspen, distractionsaspen.com; and Union, L.A., unionlosangeles.com. Petra tees, $395 each, top, and Makra stitch bomber jacket, above, $855, arriving for Spring 2013 early next year; for more information, visit orley.us.
During fashion month, Tommy Ton caught several stylish ladies on the streets wearing an accessory you won’t find sitting on the shelves next to the bags and shoes at Louis Vuitton, Bottega Veneta, or Prada. The likes of Anna Dello Russo were pairing their couture frocks with brightly colored, oversize headphones. Recently, I tuned in to a headphone that’s chic enough to rival the rest of Dello Russo (or any style-conscious girl’s) outfit. Molami, a Swedish company that is celebrating its debut in the U.S. tonight at the new New York boutique Fivestory, has created a collection of luxe headphones and earbuds ($200 to $450) made of leather, silk, stingray, and 18-karat gold. There’s Bight, a small earphone; Twine, a silk satin and chiffon blend that doubles as a headwrap; and my favorite, Pleat, an over-ear, boxy headphone made of soft nappa leather. Street-style stalwarts, are you listening?