20 posts tagged "Franca Sozzani"
Gareth Pugh (left) has just opened his first store in Hong Kong, for which he shipped in tubs and tubs of black rubber paint from England. “What could be more me than a black box?” he asked of his design strategy. A black box full of nails, we’d say, though that might not be the most comfortable shopping experience. [Vogue U.K.]
The Lanvin invasion continues. Just weeks after opening its Manhattan store, Alber Elbaz and co. are preparing to bow on Rodeo Drive. [WWD]
And while Europe is sending its best toward America, the U.S. of A. is responding in kind: Gap is set to open its first store in Milan. But before that, the label is dipping a toe in the water with a capsule collection, designed with 10 Corso Como’s Franca Sozzani, to be sold at a temporary store during fashion week in September. [WWD]
Design it like Beckham? Victoria has apparently tapped hubby David B. to design a line of menswear to complement her own women’s collection. Do we see tattooed suits in the future? [Vogue U.K.]
Mamma mia! Is Italian suitmaking too Italian to survive? [NYT]
The huge machinery that is the Italian luxury fashion and textile industry is facing a threat on three fronts: its own complacency in not developing homegrown talent, the migration of manufacturing to low-cost countries, and now the economic downturn. In a way, though, though, the horrible realization that there’s a perfect storm brewing might be just what’s needed to compel backers and fashion employers to recognize and hire young designers in order to shore up the future.
After winning this year’s Who Is on Next? competition (an initiative set up by Vogue Italia editor Franca Sozzani), Marco de Vincenzo might be a contender. His debut show in Milan, based on ideas about sportswear and classical Greek draping, looked technically accomplished for a relative beginner. Neoprene strips fused onto stretch tulle in geometric patterns were the main feature of his 35-look collection, a technique he said he’d learned from his day job as a bag designer at Fendi.
But why take the risk of starting his own collection at such a down period? “I’ve been working in this area for nine years, since I graduated from design school,” de Vincenzo explained. “I’ve always had a passion to do ready-to-wear. Last March, I realized I didn’t want to wait any longer.” What’s slowly shifting, he says, is the attitude of factory owners toward independent designers whose orders would once have been turned away on the grounds of being too insignificant with which to bother. Now those companies are actively seeking work to keep themselves busy. Meanwhile, other opportunities are opening up as established design companies look to overhaul their labels by hiring young designers as consultants. De Vincenzo’s progress from here to next season could be worth keeping an eye on.
Talk about a tough room. When Giambattista Valli presented his pre-fall 2009 collection at Pitti Immagine in Florence last night, his clothes competed for attention with Michelangelo. Seriously. The Valli catwalk ran through the Palazzo Vecchio’s storied Salone dei Cinquecento, where Michelangelo’s sculpture The Genius of Victory is housed and where Giorgio Vasari’s frescoes trumpet Florentine victories of old from wall and ceiling. Would Valli’s show likewise be a triumph? The local aristocracy and fashion nobility turned up to find out—Margherita Missoni, Franca Sozzani, Hortense Visconti, and Vogue best-dresser Bianca Brandolini and sister Coco were seated in the front row. (No Lapo sighting, though.) But Valli claimed he wasn’t nervous about making his debut before a hometown crowd, or, for that matter, about contending with Renaissance masters. “Italy is my country,” he said. “And to show at the Salone dei Cinquecento, that is a dream come true. When I came out on the catwalk and saw the magnificence of the crowded room and my work being celebrated there I was the happiest of men.” Later, Valli celebrated that euphoria with a seated dinner for marquee attendees at the Four Seasons. Florence has no shortage of buildings fit to make even the most seasoned of travelers go into a tourist swoon. The Four Seasons is in a converted palace on the outskirts of town, and Valli’s repast was held in a hall nearly as impressive as the Vecchio’s Salone. By this point, however, there was no distracting Valli’s guests: With a first course of seared tuna and quail egg salad arriving on the table at nigh on 11 p.m., all eyes were on the food.
Friday morning attracted an impressive assortment of fashion identities at the Raleigh hotel in Miami as Vogue Italia‘s Franca Sozzani hosted a breakfast to unveil—wait for it—a duck. Not just any duck, however. This one, a giant resin sculpture (pictured at left) measuring in around one meter, is British contemporary artist Stuart Semple’s ode to the iconic mascot of Moncler. “It’s just a very funny and different way of seeing the symbol of the brand,” attested Sozzani, who, with sister Carla, greeted Bruce Weber, Roxanne Lowit, Bob Colacello, Thom Browne, and Stefano Tonchi (complete with his tennis racquet fresh from an early morning match). Next up on the duck’s itinerary is Aspen for a Moncler store opening at the end of the month, followed by an auction with all proceeds from the Moncler Toy Charity Project to be donated to the Child Priority Foundation.