August 30 2014

styledotcom Four street style photographers on what they hope to see this #NYFW: @Le21eme

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2 posts tagged "Francesca Burns"

An Ode to Petri


PETRI(E) Inventory 65 cover and "Melody of Caged Birds" shoot

In gritty 1980s London, John Galliano was wrapping up his studies at Central Saint Martins, Leigh Bowery was hosting pansexual club nights, and Nick Logan launched The Face. It was a time of unencumbered experimentation—sartorial and otherwise. And it was during this era that stylist Ray Petri—the man responsible for the anti-glam Buffalo movement—emerged on the scene. Petri (formerly Petrie) laid the bricks for the eclectic British fashion scene of today. His editorials, which set the tone in magazines such as Arena, i-D, and the above-mentioned The Face, pictured rough London teens in unexpected combinations of high fashion, tough workwear, athletic clothes, underwear, vintage, and beyond. He created not only a look but an ideology that was universally recognizable. And now, the iconoclast—who died of AIDS in 1989—is getting a magazine named after him.


Dhaka's Response

Founded by Zadrian Smith—a London-based writer, stylist, and producer who’s worked with such publications as Tank, Love, GQ Style and British VoguePETRI(E) Inventory 65 (the stylist would have turned 65 this year—published annually, the numbers will bump up accordingly) seeks to breathe new life into Petri’s legacy. Aiming to channel the man’s uncompromising, unfiltered vision, PETRI(E)’s editorial array extends far beyond fashion. The debut issue offers an ode to Petri by British Vogue’s Francesca Burns, a photo essay by Saiful Huq Omi that lenses the hope and strife within Bangladesh megalopolis, Dhaka (above), and an essay by Valerie Steele on her upcoming exhibition, Queer History. “I think there’s a vulnerability and honesty to each piece that I hope readers will appreciate,” Smith told Also included is an editorial titled “Melody of Caged Birds,” (above, right) which, featuring Meadham Kirchhoff’s designs, serves as a visual antidote to the suppression of raw creative impulse. “Don’t get me wrong,” said Smith, “I know fashion is a business, but there needs to be a greater balance of business and creativity. At this rate, fashion will bleed itself of organic artistry.”


PETRI(E) Inventory 65 launches on May 20, and is available for preorder here

London Gets A Whole New Style


Last night in London, the yet-to-open Corinthia Hotel welcomed the fashion set into its stingray-lined Bassoon bar, where the likes of Savannah Miller, DJ Princess Julia, and host GQ editor in chief Dylan Jones toasted the launch of GQ Style‘s Spring/Summer issue. It was the first outing for the glossy’s new leadership, editor Ben Reardon and fashion directors Luke Day and Francesca Burns, who repped the London look in a koi-print ensemble from Mary Katrantzou’s Fall collection. “2011 is not about being fierce. It’s not about making such a scary statement or being the most directional, the ‘most weird,’ the most anything,” Reardon explained. “It’s about being honest, representing intelligent menswear, good styling, and culture.” On the culture front, there’s cover boy James Franco; on good styling, an exclusive feature on Mugler’s Nicola Formichetti.

The focus was the new mag, so even high-profile attendees like Alexa Chung, wearing rosebud Topshop skinny jeans and a vintage polka-dot blouse (somebody was paying attention during fashion week), kept a low profile in the VIP corner. “My friend designed the magazine and I’m here to support him,” she said, before returning to her pink ginger cocktail. Also in the elite section was Gareth Pugh, who’s jetting off to Mexico for a beach getaway next week. “I have lots of things coming up, but I’m contractually obligated from talking about them. So I shan’t!” he joked. Before making his exit he added, “I’m looking forward to relaxing but the wheels are always turning.” No rest for the wicked.

Photo: Courtesy of GQ Style