24 posts tagged "Frida Giannini"
During New York fashion week, pale pink was the street-style color of choice, at least as far as coats were concerned. Ever since Carven sent pastel cocoon coats down the runway last September, we’ve coveted a rosy topper—this editor even surrendered to one. And while by week’s end the pale-hued jackets felt all but ubiquitous, the last day of the New York collections began to validate my purchase.
Both Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs cast cloudy variations of neutrals, muddled blues, frothy greens, and lilacs down the runway. We saw comparable wares (plush pink coat included) from Francisco Costa earlier at Calvin Klein Pre-Fall. Marc Jacobs’ girls, with their pristine beauty looks, were visions of almost unattainable perfection—almost like femme fatales from the future. In London Christopher Kane sang a similar tune: His models seemed prepared to conquer all elements—rosé-colored dresses finished with swirled sleeves made a fembot-esque statement. But we had to wonder, would the Italian designers follow suit? Yesterday, Frida Giannini’s pastel-powered Gucci girls took charge in sixties-infused monochromatic shirt-and-suit combos in sage green, baby blue, and sandy pink. While we can appreciate Madonna in a double-breasted Ralph Lauren tuxedo, this color theory is proof that we don’t need to borrow from the boys or opt for a classic black-and-white combo to state our claim as H.B.I.C.
Pantone may have named Radiant Orchid—a dusty magenta—its color of the year for 2014, but judging from the latest Pre-Fall lineups, designers beg to differ. The hue that’s cropped up time and time again is orange, from true, juicy shades to red-tinged bricks and rusts. Pastel outerwear was all the rage in 2013, but now Narciso Rodriguez, Joseph Altuzarra, and Gucci’s Frida Giannini have pumped things up with tailored coats in spicy shades. Proenza Schouler added fire to the tonal trend with wrap dresses and separates done in paprika-colored buttery suede. Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier did his part, too, showing a cozy Creamsicle sweater and complementary tangerine trousers (and on It redhead Magdalena Jasek, no less). Will menswear designers take up the torch for Fall ’14? Tune in this January to find out.
Stripes are relatively de rigueur in fashion. But they’re most often seen in a horizontal orientation. Such is not the case with Resort ’14. A crop of designers have printed vertical lines down, down, down their silhouettes, adding both height and graphic pop along the way.
Vera Wang showed a number of daytime outfits with various takes on referee stripes, offering simple black and white repetitions, which were offset nicely by banded waists and lace panels. Helmut Lang‘s Michael and Nicole Colovos, too, procured a sharp T-shirt dress with abstract grayscale striations.
Yet the most alluring banding occurred when designers went for full-length looks. Gucci‘s Frida Giannini offered a brilliant pajama suit, if you will, composed of ocher, saffron, cinnamon, and chestnut stripes in alternating widths (above, center). Narciso Rodriguez showed a daring mod-meets-modern striped strapless dress over white boot-cut pants (above, left), and the ever-original Thom Browne showed inside-out garments, many of which were lined with longitudinal strips in preppy hues (above, right). The takeaway? Tall girls will look very, very good in Thom.
Perhaps given Riccardo Tisci’s recent varsity-letterman font slogans—think “PERVERT” at his men’s Pre-Fall 2013 collection, or “FAVELAS,” as spotted on a lace top worn by Marina Abramovic at last week’s CFDA Awards—designers circuit-wide are turning toward text in their Resort ’14 lineups. Yet where Tisci’s words of choice are consciously incendiary (“FAVELAS”—dense urban slums most commonly associated with Rio de Janeiro—will become an increasingly hot topic as Brazil’s World Cup and Olympic Games approach), others have gunned for logomania.
For instance, Rochas‘ Marco Zanini knit the house’s moniker across a turquoise roll-neck sweater. At Gucci, Frida Giannini emblazoned “FRIDA’S” across a retro-tinged crop top (let’s face it—at this point, the designer’s name and aesthetic are virtually synonymous with the Italian house), and Preen‘s Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi printed an abstract take on their line’s name across gray athletic-grade jersey. “We were interested in slogans and rock band tour T-shirts,” Thornton said of the nineties-inspired collection. “The motif was a development from these, combined with a contemporary art attitude. We have always loved letters and text,” the designer added, “so why not incorporate them into clothing? There is nothing more graphically pleasing than letters.”