5 posts tagged "Fyodor Golan"
Chinese designer Huishan Zhang, who landed on our radar this past summer, is the latest recipient of the Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize, which, includes a £25,000 award and mentorship. The 30-year-old Central Saint Martins alum was among four other finalists—Emilia Wickstead, Barbara Casasola, and Fyodor Golan—who presented their Spring 2014 collections to a panel of judges at the Dorchester Hotel on Tuesday night. “I was enjoying my night already, no matter what,” Zhang told WWD. “I thought I’d have another glass of Champagne then go home but now we might have to open a bottle!” Previous winners include Thomas Tait, Anndra Neen, and Augustin Teboul.
The royal baby isn’t the only big news out of London this week. This morning, in the Big Smoke, the Dorchester Collection announced the nominees for its 2013 Fashion Prize, all of whom happen to be London-based. Fyodor Golan, Barbara Casasola, Emilia Wickstead (left), and Huishan Zhang will now compete for the grand prize: a 25,000 pound bursary and mentorship, plus a two-night stay at one of the Collection’s über-luxe hotels. The big winner will be revealed on October 29, pending the results of a private catwalk presentation before a panel of judges, including stylist Caroline Issa and designer Daniella Helayel. The prestigious accolade was conceived to help designers in their professional infancy. To be eligible, brands must be between two and five years old. Previous recipients of the award include Thomas Tait and Anndra Neen.
“I like a lot of embellishment and I like a lot of print,” said Holly Fulton. She might have been speaking for all her fellow English designers at the London Showrooms, the traveling, British Fashion Council-sponsored showcase which arrived in New York this week, following a stint in L.A. It’s almost a cliché that London designers trend bright and buzzy, but it’s become something of a calling card for the young talents nurtured by the BFC. To tweak the old saw, go big or stay home.
Fulton served up her groupie-inspired Fall collection, which featured lava-rock embellishments, hand-drawn prints, and a rather impressive dress constructed entirely of feathers. Others, like Simone Rocha (above), who’s currently selling stateside in Jeffrey and Opening Ceremony, offered less print but more color. Her key pieces were voluminous waffle-knitted neoprene looks in what she laughingly referred to as “Pepto pink.” Thomas Tait also played on unexpected fusion of spongy, bonded leather and quilted nylon in Day-Glo oranges and lime greens. “I feel like I’ve been shouting,” said Tait, whose line is also carried at Jeffrey. “I’ll be doing something mellower next season.”
Meanwhile, Fyodor Golan, designed by Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman, balanced elegant, elaborately embellished print dresses with more playful leather pieces embossed with smiley faces. Turns out Smiley—the company that owns the rights to the icon—approached the duo for a collaboration, and they jumped at the chance to create, as Frydman put it, a “sexual smiley.” Another duo, Teatum Jones (that is to say, Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones) showed bright, seemingly tie-dyed dresses in perforated bonded jersey, as well as a few particularly interesting coats in latex-coated alpaca wool. Yet a third duo, Palmer//Harding, also in attendance, used a similarly clever technique on their wools to make them look like leather.
Men’s designers were on display, too, and they came with news to share. James Long whispered that half the designers showing on the Paris calendar had called to personal-order his sweater knitted with a giant picture of Divine. Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton of Agi & Sam had news of an offbeat football (read: soccer) and owl-inspired capsule collection they’ll launch at Topman next month. And jeweler Dominic Jones revealed he’ll show his first-ever men’s collection during June’s London Collections: Men. In the meantime, he was showing his mainline collection as well as his recently-launched lower priced range, DJ by Dominic Jones. “I wanted to make something that all my friends could afford,” he said when asked about the gold-plated and bright enamel collection of baubles, which average about $100 apiece.
London is not short on young designer initiatives, and as fashion week approaches, the city begins to highlight its top up-and-comers. Today, the London-based Centre for Fashion Enterprise’s New Fashion Ventures program has awarded three ambitious new labels with sponsorship: Teatum Jones (launched by designers Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones in 2010), Fyodor Golan (designed by Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman and also launched in 2010) and Marques’ Almeida, which, designed by Central Saint Martins alums Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, was launched in 2011 (an image from their Spring ’13 collection is pictured left). Having shown under Fashion East for their first two seasons, Marques’ Almedia—best known for its frayed, grunge-inspired denim looks—has also earned coveted NEWGEN sponsorship for the past two seasons. Founded in 2003, the Center for Fashion Enterprise has helped jumpstart the careers of designers like Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto, and Erdem Moralioglu—that’s to say, the brands they champion have a pretty good track record. This season, the program will provide its chosen talents with business and PR support, as well as a studio space for the next two. Thus far, the scheme has helped over 200 emerging talents and awarded about $7.8 million in funding. Keep an eye out for CFE’s Fall ’13 picks, which will show at London Fashion Week this February.
What will it take to catch the eyes of Roland Mouret, Claudia Schiffer, and the rest of the judges for London’s Fashion Fringe prize? “A little joie de vivre,” Mouret told British Vogue of the three finalists the judging panel selected for the annual award. (“Asking ‘would I buy it?’—that’s not important,” Schiffer added.) All three finalists will show their collections on the London runway in September, where the winner will receive a two-year package that includes financial assistance, studio space, and mentorship. This year’s top three? The Latvian/Israeli duo behind Fyodor Golan; Royal College of Art grad Nabil El-Nayal, who previously won the British Fashion Council’s M.A. scholarship; and California-born, Singapore-raised, Central Saint Martins-educated Heidi Leung, who’s worked at Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane. (Leung’s sketches are at left.) The prize has the potential to send its winners to the next level of the fashion stratosphere—case in point, Erdem Moralioglu, who nabbed it in the past.