6 posts tagged "Gaby Basora"
Pucker up, kiddos. Smooches abounded on the Spring ’14 runways, making their mark everywhere from Peter Jensen, where frocks and tops were covered with photo-realistic lips, to Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, who crafted a pair of sunglasses with gilded gobs for lenses. The gap-toothed pink and purple pouts that appeared on a series of looks at Giles Deacon were rumored to be an ode to stylist Katie Grand’s grin. Meanwhile, Saint Laurent‘s Hedi Slimane doused an 80s-tinged ruffle top and short black wrap dress with an allover rouge lip print. Inspired by Yves Saint Laurent’s 1971 Vichy Chic collection, the smackers were a somewhat surprising embrace of the house’s history. Tucker’s Gaby Basora employed the motif, too. The New York-based designer collaborated with Solange Azagury-Partridge—best known for her “Hot Lips” baubles—on rosebud blouses and dresses strewn with fuchsia kissers.
If mouthy accessories are more your taste, look no further than Yaz Bukey’s Spring ’14 range. The designer served up a patent cherry bouche bag—as well as a pair of lipstick-shaped earrings for touch-ups. And even on the street, showgoers were donning mouth-embellished duds. Tommy Ton snapped one femme in Paris wearing surreal black driving gloves fit for Dali—the wrists sealed with two bright red kisses.
“When it’s time to leave Los Angeles, I realize none of us know where our shoes are,” Gaby Basora confesses of her time spent strolling the beaches of Southern California. “There’s that slower pace, much more entertaining in people’s homes and backyards, and a completely different vibe,” the Tucker designer explains of her impetus to decamp out west—albeit briefly—for a pop-up shop in Venice this weekend. Starting today, Tucker will occupy graphic designer Carly Margolis’ All for the Mountain space in L.A.’s sun-drenched west-side neighborhood. Ripe for the occasion, the line will feature pieces that have up until now only been available out of New York, including the classic and asymmetrical dress in the mint mallard print, the contrast button-up in red, and the drawstring cami dress in summery colorways. Joining forces with local talent, Basora’s silk best will be paired with Clare Vivier’s unfussy line of handbags, along with select pieces from Ariel Gordon’s semiprecious jewelry designs.
This is just the latest power play for the cheery brand since launching back in 2006. “We started really item-based as the perfect blouse and the perfect dress,” Basora says of her line, which partnered with Target for a GO International campaign in 2010. “We were bucking the trends in that we launched with a couple of items as opposed to a full collection. I think it was off-trend to do that, and now there is a lot of interest in item-driven collections.” Her full range has now filled out, moving into multiple categories (pants are a best seller in New York) as well as skewing younger with darling dresses for the younger set. And despite just opening her first stand-alone retail store in Soho at the close of 2011, the L.A. pop-up is more than just a quick sojourn out west. As Basora puts it, “We’re getting our toes in the water.”
The Tucker pop-up shop is open through July 29, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. at All for the Mountain, 2118 Lincoln Blvd., Venice Beach, Calif.
Tucker’s first store literally rose from the ashes. “The fire happened on a Saturday in late July,” designer Gaby Basora tells Style.com. “And even though the studio was completely destroyed, everyone was back at work on Monday—albeit at various locations around the city.” Though the disaster might have wrecked her studio, the New York-based designer behind the easy-breezy line, beloved by Hollywood starlets like Jessica Biel, Liv Tyler, and Cameron Diaz, didn’t let it burn her hopes of opening her first store.
On Friday, Basora, who originally launched her line at Barneys in 2006, will open the doors of her new shop (also home to her new design studio and salesroom) on West Broadway, joining the likes of Isabel Marant, VPL, and, next year, Stella McCartney. Of the 2,000-square-foot space, complete with “architectural quirks” like skylights, stained glass, and tin ceilings, she says, “It’s quintessentially Tucker. I worked with Lithe Sebesta to pull together vintage mannequins and mirrors with a gorgeous patina—we reupholstered antique furniture in Indian textiles and archived Tucker prints.”
You’ll also find plenty of signature Tucker prints (some of them exclusive to the store) on the racks displaying her full collection ($100 to $600), including the floaty blouses she made her name on and double-breasted silk print jackets. Aside from the Basora-designed offerings, there’s a selection of Dashwood Books, leather belts by Golden Bear, shoes from Jerome C. Rousseau, and jewelry from Alyssa Norton and Melissa Joy Manning. Soon to join the mix: fitness gear. “I ran the New York Marathon this year and hated my outfit,” she says. “Stay tuned for Tucker’s take on sportswear in the coming year.” And though she doesn’t have set plans for her next bricks-and-mortar shop, she’s thinking, “Elizabeth Street in London, Buenos Aires, Paris…just to start.”
Tucker, 355 West Broadway, NYC, (212) 938-0811.
If such thing as the fashion soul mate exists, Tucker designer Gaby Basora and director Zoe Cassavetes are each other’s perfect match. Call it a sartorial SheHarmony.com. “It only took like five minutes of Gaby and I meeting to realize that we loved each other entirely,” said Cassavetes over dinner with Basora at Paris restaurant La Saturne in March. The director, who now lives in Paris with her husband, Sebastien Chenut, segued into a bemused, wined-and-dined half-rant. “I love clothes but I hate fashion. I’m sorry, I just don’t have time for the blah blah blah,” she said. “Gaby gave me all the clothes I wanted to wear without the fashion bullshit.” Basora reflected the praise right back across the wooden table. “[Zoe] looks phenomenal in the clothes, but there’s also a shared sensibility—same sense of humor, outlook on life.”
Under such mutually admiring circumstances, a collaboration was only inevitable. Their first is a polka-dot print inspired by a book with the rather direct title of Vintage Dress Fabric From the States that Cassavetes picked up at 10 Corso Como in Milan. “It’s a polka dot, but it’s not really. It’s quirkier than that,” said Basora. True enough. On a background of poppy red, the navy dots seem to dance around—the result of the tiny white squares sprinkled around them.
For her summer collection—hitting stores and sites near you at the end of this month—Basora cut the dotty fabric into her ever-flattering, nipped-waist panel dress and a sexy backless jumpsuit. There’s also a silk bikini that’s not quite ready for cannon-balling into the deep end, but is evidence of their next meeting of the fashion minds: Tucker swimwear. Not surprisingly, Cassavetes has lots to say on the subject. “The thing about our bikini is that it’s going to be completely about the ass,” she began. “I want a ruche at the ass crack to give a little…” Basora finished the sentence, “Definition.” “Yes, and you know what? It works very well,” Cassavetes continued. “Basically it’s something you can wear that’s sexy but if you’re not 20, you’re not dying in it.”
Fans of Tucker’s perfect blouse—the silky, voluminous-sleeved, and often charmingly printed variety on which the label was built—can rest easy. According to designer Gaby Basora, even as her collection has blossomed into a full vision, that beloved piece will never be forsaken for newer, flashier silhouettes.
“If you look at someone like Agnès B, she has her classics,” said Basora last week. “If you have a leather jacket that you love from the eighties, most likely you’ll be able to find it again. Jean Touitou from A.P.C. does that too. I love that model. That’s what I’m hoping to be build over here, a kind of heritage brand.”
Nevertheless, since last fall, when she added outerwear, knits, and a whole host of new blouse and dress silhouettes, Tucker has become a bona fide collection, instead of a grouping of great items. It boosted her sales to now over 300 stores, including a healthy global presence in Europe, the Middle East, and Japan. That jump is also not surprising, since Basora’s longtime louche and groovy seventies aesthetic is now dovetailing with the Me Decade fever all over the runways. Her spring lineup is no exception, with YSL-esque ruffle-necked wrap blouses and dresses, lean high-waisted trousers, and maxi dresses and blouses with open tie necks—all, of course, in fab prints. Just imagine the vintage wardrobe of a woman who either dated or married any member of the Rolling Stones.
As for what’s next, Basora says to expect more collaborations, but not quite like the one she did last year with Target. “I’m going to work with other designers that I love who are doing things in other categories,” she said. And so the House of Tucker grows.