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April 20 2014

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56 posts tagged "Gareth Pugh"

Blasblog from Paris: A Front Row Flashback At Gareth Pugh

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When I took my seat at Gareth Pugh’s show, his menswear debut and the finale of the week, my mind suddenly raced back to when another British designer made his first steps into menswear. Due no doubt to some seating snafu, I was in the front row of John Galliano’s first-ever menswear show for his eponymous label in 2004. It was the one where a crew of the most major male models came out greased up and writhed around on the front row, old bed frames, wood boxes, and whatever other prop could be found on the runway. It was decadence and ecstasy and camp. It was very Galliano. But it was one of those fashion moments when you wouldn’t have expected anything less from a designer for his menswear debut. Pugh’s first ever men’s show, staged around a mobile of smashed glass, was equivalent. But it wasn’t because the male models engaged with the audience (at Galliano, Tony Ward asked me for a light as he cruised down the runway), but because of Pugh’s unwavering dedication to his aesthetic. The dark and heavily made-up boys stomped out in patent patchwork trenchcoats with the stiffest and highest of shoulders, the tightest of pants, and the toughest of combat boots. Many of the last looks were crafted from nail-pierced leather. It was a sci-fi journey into another world, where only the likes of Terence Koh and performance artist Casey Spooner could fit in. (I could hear them “ooh” and “aah” over each look, mentally planning personal orders.) Sure, very few people will dare to wear it, but then, I haven’t seen too many guys in the shredded booty shorts on that Galliano runway either. Later, at a dinner for Kim Jones’ own impressive debut at Dunhill, after the oft-inebriated Lily Allen toasted the designer, I got a bit of my own gossip: Many claim wearability wasn’t a factor in the least, but that this show was Pugh’s audition for LVMH (some say in the Dior Homme post currently occupied by Kris Van Assche). And the Galliano connection only deepens. (For complete coverage of the menswear collections, go to men.style.com.)

Photo: Marcio Madeira

Blasblog From Paris: The Kanye Chronicles

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As any fashion editor will tell you nowadays, it’s not a fashion show unless Kanye West is in the front row. The rapper/designer, who has been known to dabble in the fashionable arts—see Louis Vuitton, big orange kicks—hasn’t missed a beat at the menswear collections, taking on a schedule that would rival the editors that actually have to be there. On Sunday alone, the closing day of men’s fashion week, he hit Lanvin (“that was the jam”), Dior, Dunhill (“I’ve known Kim Jones from way back, and I’m glad to see my boy doing something good”), and Gareth Pugh’s debut men’s show, where I joined him in waiting for nearly an hour in the foyer of the Palais de Tokyo. That’s where he revealed he nearly didn’t make it to Paris: It turns out when he flew to Washington, D.C., to perform at one of the many inaugural balls (would you believe the tuxedo he rocked was picked up off-the-rack at Brooks Brothers that day?), he left his passport in L.A. That must have been some performance, because he managed to get a last-minute passport from State Department officials and hop on a plane just in time to make Raf Simons. West isn’t not going anywhere soon, either. At Pugh, he announced that he was happily staying in the City of Light for his first ever Couture fashion week. “I’m getting more and more inspired,” he said, adding that he’s already come up with a list of ideas for future pieces for more LV collaborations from the shows he’s already seen. But until then, it’s hurry and wait as usual—which, as any fashion editor will tell you, can be tedious if one can’t create forms of amusement. Perhaps that’s why Kanye and his seven-man entourage came up with “Fashion Battles,” in which they pit the most daring of looks in the audience against each other. (That’s why he asked for this pic of him and Daphne Guinness.) All was well and fine until one daring pair of young men showed up—one with his culottes pants tucked into platform YSL shoes, and his friend in a full-body leather look, resembling Milla Jovovich’s wardrobe on her Joan of Arc movie. Asked Kanye, “How can you beat that?”

Photo: Derek Blasberg

Beyoncé’s Other, Other Favorite Designer

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By now, most fashion watchers are aware that Beyoncé is a dyed-in-the-graphic-geometric -wool fan of Gareth Pugh and of Thierry Mugler, now that the latter designer will be creative- directing and costuming her upcoming tour. But B’s latest video for her song Diva—which some liken to a reprise of Pugh’s Spring 2009 show —also features the work of 25-year-old designer Brian Lichtenberg. The patchwork bodysuit and matching lace leggings (pictured here) that the designer custom-made for Mrs. Jay-Z also echo his Spring 2009 collection. But Lichtenberg isn’t exactly a newbie when it comes to the wardrobing needs of pop stars. M.I.A. reportedly flipped over his hologram leggings and now owns several pairs; the designer was even an extra in her Bucky Done Gun video. “Beyoncé came up with the idea [of the bodysuit], as she wanted to dance in it for her music video,” explains Lichtenberg. The designer, who shows at L.A. Fashion Week, has an aesthetic that’s futuristic, bold, and graphic—which is, of course, right up Beyoncé’s currently avant-garde fashion alley. Lichtenberg’s collection includes clothing and jewelry in collaboration with L.A.-based accessories duo Alex & Chloe. He has also teamed up with Franc Fernandez on a range of sharply architectural hats (imagine what Grace Jones’ millinery collection would look like), which Beyoncé did wear for Diva, though the segment ended up on the cutting-room floor. For more on Lichtenberg, go to www.brianlichtenberg.com.

And Gareth Makes Three

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Things really do happen in threes. Gareth Pugh joins Roland Mouret and Matthew Williamson in next season’s freshman menswear class. Clearly there’s something in the water over in London Town.

The Queen goes vintage, eats leftovers, and turns out the lights. What’s next, bathes without bottled water?

Louis Vuitton pulls the plug on its ginormous Ginza flagship. Apparently a ten-floor boutique tower is expensive.

Lydia Hearst gets the intern outfit half right: cup of coffee, pair of glasses…and a shirt as a dress. So close!

Betsey Johnson and Carmen Marc Valvo will leave Bryant Park for cheaper climes this February. Without Betsey, who will throw us a magical tea party or invite us to prom? Wherever she decides to show better be big enough for cartwheels.

Blasblog From Moscow: Pugh Times Three

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Remember back when we were little, that group of cool girls that would show up in homeroom all dressed alike? Maybe it was an I.O.U. turtleneck sweatshirt (or were those only big in Missouri?), or maybe it was a fancy pair of stonewashed jeans with a zipper at the bottom—which, strangely, is very Balmain Spring 2009, now that I think about it. Not that it was limited to the ladies. I can remember coordinating my fuchsia Umbro shorts with friends on more than one occasion. Well, this weekend in Moscow, three of London’s coolest broads brought back this dress-alike trend, albeit raising the bar on the chic factor. Instead of Z. Cavariccis, they were all in different variations of a Gareth Pugh Fall 2008 print. That’s jewelry designer Eugenie Niarchos in a minidress that has a smaller version of the black and white optical illusion pattern, artist Olympia Scarry in a larger version in leggings form, and Harrods brand ambassador Camilla Al Fayed in the same larger print, but cut into a minidress. Scarry mixed hers with a pair of Chloé boots, to which she seems awfully partial. Niarchos went minimal with a tiny belt. And Al Fayed blinged hers up with an oversize chain-link necklace covered in pavé diamonds. “We are the same, but very, very different, too,” Niarchos smiled, adding that they all picked up traditional Russian fur hats while they were in Moscow. So maybe the triplet look won’t end here.

Photo: Derek Blasberg