56 posts tagged "Gareth Pugh"
When I took my seat at Gareth Pugh’s show, his menswear debut and the finale of the week, my mind suddenly raced back to when another British designer made his first steps into menswear. Due no doubt to some seating snafu, I was in the front row of John Galliano’s first-ever menswear show for his eponymous label in 2004. It was the one where a crew of the most major male models came out greased up and writhed around on the front row, old bed frames, wood boxes, and whatever other prop could be found on the runway. It was decadence and ecstasy and camp. It was very Galliano. But it was one of those fashion moments when you wouldn’t have expected anything less from a designer for his menswear debut. Pugh’s first ever men’s show, staged around a mobile of smashed glass, was equivalent. But it wasn’t because the male models engaged with the audience (at Galliano, Tony Ward asked me for a light as he cruised down the runway), but because of Pugh’s unwavering dedication to his aesthetic. The dark and heavily made-up boys stomped out in patent patchwork trenchcoats with the stiffest and highest of shoulders, the tightest of pants, and the toughest of combat boots. Many of the last looks were crafted from nail-pierced leather. It was a sci-fi journey into another world, where only the likes of Terence Koh and performance artist Casey Spooner could fit in. (I could hear them “ooh” and “aah” over each look, mentally planning personal orders.) Sure, very few people will dare to wear it, but then, I haven’t seen too many guys in the shredded booty shorts on that Galliano runway either. Later, at a dinner for Kim Jones’ own impressive debut at Dunhill, after the oft-inebriated Lily Allen toasted the designer, I got a bit of my own gossip: Many claim wearability wasn’t a factor in the least, but that this show was Pugh’s audition for LVMH (some say in the Dior Homme post currently occupied by Kris Van Assche). And the Galliano connection only deepens. (For complete coverage of the menswear collections, go to men.style.com.)
By now, most fashion watchers are aware that Beyoncé is a dyed-in-the-graphic-geometric -wool fan of Gareth Pugh and of Thierry Mugler, now that the latter designer will be creative- directing and costuming her upcoming tour. But B’s latest video for her song Diva—which some liken to a reprise of Pugh’s Spring 2009 show —also features the work of 25-year-old designer Brian Lichtenberg. The patchwork bodysuit and matching lace leggings (pictured here) that the designer custom-made for Mrs. Jay-Z also echo his Spring 2009 collection. But Lichtenberg isn’t exactly a newbie when it comes to the wardrobing needs of pop stars. M.I.A. reportedly flipped over his hologram leggings and now owns several pairs; the designer was even an extra in her Bucky Done Gun video. “Beyoncé came up with the idea [of the bodysuit], as she wanted to dance in it for her music video,” explains Lichtenberg. The designer, who shows at L.A. Fashion Week, has an aesthetic that’s futuristic, bold, and graphic—which is, of course, right up Beyoncé’s currently avant-garde fashion alley. Lichtenberg’s collection includes clothing and jewelry in collaboration with L.A.-based accessories duo Alex & Chloe. He has also teamed up with Franc Fernandez on a range of sharply architectural hats (imagine what Grace Jones’ millinery collection would look like), which Beyoncé did wear for Diva, though the segment ended up on the cutting-room floor. For more on Lichtenberg, go to www.brianlichtenberg.com.
Things really do happen in threes. Gareth Pugh joins Roland Mouret and
The Queen goes vintage, eats leftovers, and turns out the lights. What’s next, bathes without bottled water?
Louis Vuitton pulls the plug on its ginormous Ginza flagship. Apparently a ten-floor boutique tower is expensive.
Lydia Hearst gets the intern outfit half right: cup of coffee, pair of glasses…and a shirt as a dress. So close!
Betsey Johnson and Carmen Marc Valvo will leave Bryant Park for cheaper climes this February. Without Betsey, who will throw us a magical tea party or invite us to prom? Wherever she decides to show better be big enough for cartwheels.