58 posts tagged "Gareth Pugh"
Is it just me, or is fashion going mad for men in so many ways? YSL Unisex debuts in stores soon and Chloë Sevigny is following up her ballyhooed Opening Ceremony range with a unisex collection of her own. Then, a whole spate of womenswear designers have launched men’s collections (Balmain, Gareth Pugh) or announced plans to do so (Alexander Wang), and a host of menswear brands have either launched collections for women (Nice Collective) or announced plans to do so (Tim Hamilton). Meanwhile, eagle-eyed style spotters at last Thursday’s Adam Kimmel presentation in Paris saw Camille Bidault-Waddington sporting one of the menswear designer’s signature jumpsuits. What gives? “I think women love the quality of well-made menswear,” offers Kimmel, who claims a devoted female fan base. “Men’s tailoring on suits and outerwear is unbeatable, and women sometimes want something a little looser, and more durable and comfortable, without having to give up any of the refinement.” That said, Kimmel suggests that a bit of styling finesse is required, in order to femme up a menswear look. His advice: Start with a well-placed belt and a great pair of heels. “It’s also important to roll sleeves up,” he adds, “flip up collars, and unbutton shirts down to show a little skin.” In other words: Just because you shop like a man, it doesn’t mean you have to look like one, too.
When I took my seat at Gareth Pugh’s show, his menswear debut and the finale of the week, my mind suddenly raced back to when another British designer made his first steps into menswear. Due no doubt to some seating snafu, I was in the front row of John Galliano’s first-ever menswear show for his eponymous label in 2004. It was the one where a crew of the most major male models came out greased up and writhed around on the front row, old bed frames, wood boxes, and whatever other prop could be found on the runway. It was decadence and ecstasy and camp. It was very Galliano. But it was one of those fashion moments when you wouldn’t have expected anything less from a designer for his menswear debut. Pugh’s first ever men’s show, staged around a mobile of smashed glass, was equivalent. But it wasn’t because the male models engaged with the audience (at Galliano, Tony Ward asked me for a light as he cruised down the runway), but because of Pugh’s unwavering dedication to his aesthetic. The dark and heavily made-up boys stomped out in patent patchwork trenchcoats with the stiffest and highest of shoulders, the tightest of pants, and the toughest of combat boots. Many of the last looks were crafted from nail-pierced leather. It was a sci-fi journey into another world, where only the likes of Terence Koh and performance artist Casey Spooner could fit in. (I could hear them “ooh” and “aah” over each look, mentally planning personal orders.) Sure, very few people will dare to wear it, but then, I haven’t seen too many guys in the shredded booty shorts on that Galliano runway either. Later, at a dinner for Kim Jones’ own impressive debut at Dunhill, after the oft-inebriated Lily Allen toasted the designer, I got a bit of my own gossip: Many claim wearability wasn’t a factor in the least, but that this show was Pugh’s audition for LVMH (some say in the Dior Homme post currently occupied by Kris Van Assche). And the Galliano connection only deepens. (For complete coverage of the menswear collections, go to men.style.com.)
By now, most fashion watchers are aware that Beyoncé is a dyed-in-the-graphic-geometric -wool fan of Gareth Pugh and of Thierry Mugler, now that the latter designer will be creative- directing and costuming her upcoming tour. But B’s latest video for her song Diva—which some liken to a reprise of Pugh’s Spring 2009 show —also features the work of 25-year-old designer Brian Lichtenberg. The patchwork bodysuit and matching lace leggings (pictured here) that the designer custom-made for Mrs. Jay-Z also echo his Spring 2009 collection. But Lichtenberg isn’t exactly a newbie when it comes to the wardrobing needs of pop stars. M.I.A. reportedly flipped over his hologram leggings and now owns several pairs; the designer was even an extra in her Bucky Done Gun video. “Beyoncé came up with the idea [of the bodysuit], as she wanted to dance in it for her music video,” explains Lichtenberg. The designer, who shows at L.A. Fashion Week, has an aesthetic that’s futuristic, bold, and graphic—which is, of course, right up Beyoncé’s currently avant-garde fashion alley. Lichtenberg’s collection includes clothing and jewelry in collaboration with L.A.-based accessories duo Alex & Chloe. He has also teamed up with Franc Fernandez on a range of sharply architectural hats (imagine what Grace Jones’ millinery collection would look like), which Beyoncé did wear for Diva, though the segment ended up on the cutting-room floor. For more on Lichtenberg, go to www.brianlichtenberg.com.