53 posts tagged "Giambattista Valli"
The Fall 2013 shows come to a close in Paris today, and a quick survey of the collections will tell you that punk is back in a big way: nails, vinyl, and tartan at Versace, Mohawks at Fendi, spiky shoes at Anthony Vaccarello, chain boots and leather waders at Chanel, the list goes on. British designer Zandra Rhodes, for one, is thrilled. “A pair of safety pins is just as beautiful as embroidery,” she said of punk’s place on the runway. And she should know—with her 1977 Conceptual Chic collection, Rhodes became one of the first (if not the first) designers to translate the gritty, antiestablishment subculture into high-fashion wares. “I had always done things covered in print, and I had a very elegant shop [on Bond Street], but I suddenly wanted to try out something different,” said Rhodes when asked why she made the 1977 collection, which earned her the title Princess of Punk.
Featuring shredded pink, red, and black dresses, tops, and skirts held together by bejeweled safety pins and chains, Conceptual Chic was a sharp departure from the vivid printed party frocks and caftans for which Rhodes was known. But that’s not to say the designer, who has, for the past few decades, flawlessly multicolored hair and geometric makeup, was a stranger to the punk spirit. “I don’t think a self-respecting street punk would have described me as [a punk], but I had a very wild appearance that was totally my own. And it was influenced by [punk culture],” said Rhodes. “There was this whole street movement going on, and I was really trying to look at it from another angle; I wanted to see the beauty that could come from it,” she added, noting that Vivienne Westwood’s die-hard punk designs were not a direct influence. “We worked totally independently. Westwood was on one side of the scale, working on her things, and I was on the other side, working on mine. Neither of us have had any contact.” Continue Reading “Pretty in Punk with Zandra Rhodes” »
The Spring 2013 shows marked a snakeskin revival. It slithered down the runway in New York at Proenza Schouler and in London at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. We saw it on sleek dresses at Reed Krakoff and Gucci, and on handbags at Valentino. The luxe exotic is in high demand, so incorporate Spring’s slick serpent motif into your wardrobe for the new year with pieces from Lanvin, Nicholas Kirkwood, Oscar de la Renta, and more.
1. Theory blouse, $267.31, available at www.farfetch.com
2. Giambattista Valli dress, $1,364, available at www.mytheresa.com
3. Lanvin clutch, $3,400, available at www.netaporter.com
4. Oscar de la Renta bracelet, $195, available at www.oscardelarenta.com
5. Nicholas Kirkwood sandal, $825, available at www.netaporter.com
To view more looks, click here.
“Reset to Zero,” claimed the notes at Jil Sander’s comeback show. It could’ve been the rallying cry for the whole Spring season. Sander’s new minimalism is different—softer, at first glance, and slightly more accessible—than the clinical aesthetic she pioneered two decades ago. Still, we expected simplicity from the Queen of Clean. It was the pared-down approach of other designers that caught us off guard. Giambattista Valli, who just a few months ago was embellishing couture veils with butterflies, traded in furbelows for crisp tailoring, and Consuelo Castiglioni swapped Marni’s signature quirky prints for a streamlined monochrome palette (pictured). “More clean, more fresh, more light,” she told Style.com’s reporter Tim Blanks. In all three cases, she was right.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of other minimal moments from Spring 2013.
You can’t hide from camouflage this season. Much like leopard print, it’s appeared in innumerable incarnations over the years, but recently, designers have been taking fatigue-inspired ready-to-wear to new heights. During Resort, fresh takes on the pattern materialized at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Giambattista Valli, and Kelly Wearstler, and it came on particularly strong at the menswear shows. Model Miles Langford sported both high and low versions of the look, first wearing his own thrift-store find in the London streets, then a few days later, turning up on the Dries Van Noten runway in a matching windbreaker and button-up. Historically, camouflage was intended for disguise, but wearing the stuff, you’ll have a hard time blending in.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW.
Louis Vuitton is seeing spots. The French brand has collaborated with Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama on seven pop-up shops (covered in the artist’s signature dots) slated to open this summer. New York’s Soho store will see the first opening on July 10 (in sync with the Kusama retrospective opening at the Whitney), where products ranging from trenchcoats to silk pajamas will be up for grabs. [WWD]
Everyone was talking about the cream gown with the daring front slit that the Duchess of Cambridge wore to a Claridge’s dinner last month. And now, Roland Mouret, the designer behind the dress, is speaking out about it. “I think it was quite fantastic that there was a split up the front,” he said. “That picture of a woman when you catch a little of the leg, that’s what you want to see.” [Vogue U.K.]
Margherita Missoni tied the knot this weekend with longtime boyfriend Eugenio Amos, in Brunello, a half-hour drive outside Milan. The bride wore a custom Giambattista Valli design, made with Missoni silk, organza, and flower embroidery. Despite the menswear shows in full swing, Franca Sozzani, Suzy Menkes, and Stefano Tonchi made the trip to see Missoni walk down the aisle. [Telegraph]