55 posts tagged "Giambattista Valli"
From the meticulous tailoring to the hand-stitched finishes to the embroidery, appliqués, and beyond, there’s a lot of work that goes into a couture collection—we all know that. But, while gawking at the final result, it’s often easy to forget about the obsessive, frenetic push it took to get everything ready for the runway. Here, via a trippy little film by Antoine Asseraf, Giambattista Valli gives us a peek behind the scenes of his Fall ’13 Couture collection and details the escalating excitement in the moments leading up to his show. The short debuts, above, exclusively on Style.com.
Fashion saves the best for last, and Paris is usually where the magic happens—both in terms of creative collections and memorable modeling moments. This season, the city definitely delivered. Case in point: Kate Moss closing Louis Vuitton on the final day of shows. She’s done it before, and she’ll probably do it again, but a Moss runway appearance is always major. The rest of the Vuitton cast didn’t disappoint, either. Edita Vilkeviciute, Eliza Cummings, Georgia May Jagger, Isabeli Fontana, Jessica Hart, and Maryna Linchuk were a few of the other familiar faces on Jacobs’ catwalk. Earlier in the week, Riccardo Tisci brought in some of his favorite ladies, including Natalia Vodianova, Mariacarla Boscono, and Erin Wasson, to parade his electrifying lineup for Givenchy. Fall ’13′s freshman class of models also ended the month with a bang. Forget New York, London, and Milan. For newcomers looking to make an impression (read: land ad campaigns), Paris is the one city that really counts. Many of the girls we’ve had our eye on since the beginning kept the momentum going in France. Sam Rollinson finished out with sixty-two shows; Sasha Luss (lower left) ended with fifty-seven; Chiharu Okunugi totaled fifty-four; and Katya Riabinkina (upper left) did forty-seven. Amanda Murphy, who bookended Prada, turned it up a notch this week, too, walking nine top-tier shows, including Dries Van Noten, Lanvin, Dior, Stella McCartney, and Chanel. Meanwhile, we’ve also got our eye on Elise Smidt (upper right), who opened Chloé and Sacai and turned up at Valentino, Vuitton, and Miu Miu; and Elisabeth Erm (lower right), who started out relatively slow in New York but made all the right moves toward the end (Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, Giambattista Valli, and Valentino). Keep an eye out for these faces in the coming months’ editorials. We have a feeling they’ll appear on more than a few pages.
The Fall 2013 shows come to a close in Paris today, and a quick survey of the collections will tell you that punk is back in a big way: nails, vinyl, and tartan at Versace, Mohawks at Fendi, spiky shoes at Anthony Vaccarello, chain boots and leather waders at Chanel, the list goes on. British designer Zandra Rhodes, for one, is thrilled. “A pair of safety pins is just as beautiful as embroidery,” she said of punk’s place on the runway. And she should know—with her 1977 Conceptual Chic collection, Rhodes became one of the first (if not the first) designers to translate the gritty, antiestablishment subculture into high-fashion wares. “I had always done things covered in print, and I had a very elegant shop [on Bond Street], but I suddenly wanted to try out something different,” said Rhodes when asked why she made the 1977 collection, which earned her the title Princess of Punk.
Featuring shredded pink, red, and black dresses, tops, and skirts held together by bejeweled safety pins and chains, Conceptual Chic was a sharp departure from the vivid printed party frocks and caftans for which Rhodes was known. But that’s not to say the designer, who has, for the past few decades, flawlessly multicolored hair and geometric makeup, was a stranger to the punk spirit. “I don’t think a self-respecting street punk would have described me as [a punk], but I had a very wild appearance that was totally my own. And it was influenced by [punk culture],” said Rhodes. “There was this whole street movement going on, and I was really trying to look at it from another angle; I wanted to see the beauty that could come from it,” she added, noting that Vivienne Westwood’s die-hard punk designs were not a direct influence. “We worked totally independently. Westwood was on one side of the scale, working on her things, and I was on the other side, working on mine. Neither of us have had any contact.” Continue Reading “Pretty in Punk with Zandra Rhodes” »
The Spring 2013 shows marked a snakeskin revival. It slithered down the runway in New York at Proenza Schouler and in London at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. We saw it on sleek dresses at Reed Krakoff and Gucci, and on handbags at Valentino. The luxe exotic is in high demand, so incorporate Spring’s slick serpent motif into your wardrobe for the new year with pieces from Lanvin, Nicholas Kirkwood, Oscar de la Renta, and more.
1. Theory blouse, $267.31, available at www.farfetch.com
2. Giambattista Valli dress, $1,364, available at www.mytheresa.com
3. Lanvin clutch, $3,400, available at www.netaporter.com
4. Oscar de la Renta bracelet, $195, available at www.oscardelarenta.com
5. Nicholas Kirkwood sandal, $825, available at www.netaporter.com
To view more looks, click here.
“Reset to Zero,” claimed the notes at Jil Sander’s comeback show. It could’ve been the rallying cry for the whole Spring season. Sander’s new minimalism is different—softer, at first glance, and slightly more accessible—than the clinical aesthetic she pioneered two decades ago. Still, we expected simplicity from the Queen of Clean. It was the pared-down approach of other designers that caught us off guard. Giambattista Valli, who just a few months ago was embellishing couture veils with butterflies, traded in furbelows for crisp tailoring, and Consuelo Castiglioni swapped Marni’s signature quirky prints for a streamlined monochrome palette (pictured). “More clean, more fresh, more light,” she told Style.com’s reporter Tim Blanks. In all three cases, she was right.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of other minimal moments from Spring 2013.