Style.com

August 1 2014

styledotcom Is topless tanning a thing of the past? stylem.ag/1zAz1Mg pic.twitter.com/Em6WvhMv6p

Subscribe to Style Magazine
13 posts tagged "Giancarlo Giammetti"

In London, Fifty Years Of Valentino Gowns

-------

Jackie Kennedy was 39 years old when she married Aristotle Onassis on October 20, 1968. One of the many pleasures of Valentino: Master of Couture, opening today at Somerset House in London, is the opportunity to reflect on how incongruously jeune fille her wedding dress was, with its lacy stockings and bowed, kitten-heeled shoes. It would look positively dreamy on Cara Delevingne, 2012′s Girl of the Year. That’s one way of making the point that, in the 50 years of Valentino outfits on display in Patrick Kinmonth, Antonio Monfreda, and Alistair O’Neill’s masterfully curated exhibition, there is virtually nothing that couldn’t walk down a street or—more likely—a red carpet today. Call it timeless genius, or maybe just settle for the fact that, in being true to his own vision, Valentino managed to glide past the whims of the moment. The curation makes that point crystal clear. “The clothes are grouped not by decade but by instinct,” Kinmonth explained at a preview yesterday, “because Valentino as a designer was always instinctive, never trend-driven.” Just check out the first look in the exhibition, from 1959. The navy blue wool cocktail dress with panel detailing on the back has got Alexa Chung written all over it. (Funny coincidence that Valentino was chosen to present her with the Style Icon trophy at the British Fashion Awards on Tuesday night.)


Kinmonth and Monfreda were responsible for Valentino’sfarewell to fashion in Rome in 2007, but where that event had an imperial grandeur, this one is intimate and reflective. Monfreda took one look at the long, vaulted space in Somerset House and imagined a catwalk where the “audience” was composed of mannequins wearing the clothes, and the “models” were the visitors. It’s a simple, brilliant switcheroo that transforms a tricky venue into le dernier cri in fashion exhibitions. No mean achievement given Kinmonth and Monfreda’s track recordwith the Met’s Costume Institute.

“All my girls, my daughters,” Valentino mused yesterday as he looked at his dresses. “I feel like the daddy.” But fathers have favorites and, pressed to pick a few, the designer indicated apink taffeta suit from 2008, a blue chiffon dress he’d first sketched in the fifties, a satin and lace evening dress that Doris Brynner wore to the Patino Ball in 1968. He chuckled over a camo-patterned couture gown from Fall 1994. “Warhol had done it in art, so I thought why not do it in fashion,” Val recalled. “Not one sold.”

There are, in fact, 45 dresses from the Valentino archives that have never been seen before, alongside more obvious drawcards like Julia Roberts’ Oscar dress, Jackie’s iconic ensemble and Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece’s wedding dress, which took 25 people four months to make, with every minute obvious in the surreally extravagant result. Adjacent to the M-C opulence is a room screening videos that detail the techniques that created the clothes. There is also a “virtual museum” (available soon online), which includes more “how-to’s” for obsessives who care to duplicate the extraordinary handwork on display throughout the show. The “behind-the-scenes” element is Kinmonth and Monfreda’s acknowledgement of London, a rather moreloosey-goosey proposition than Rome, the city that hosted the last Valentino retro they designed. But it also offers an intimate human perspective on the grand legacy that Giancarlo Giammetti, the éminence grise of the Valentino story, has worked so hard to guarantee. The designer himself seemed to be feeling the same thing. Asked what he wanted people to feel as they left the exhibition, his answer was a wistful, “We miss you.”

Plus: See all the photos and read Tim Blanks’ report from the exhibition’s celebration dinner here.

Photos: Courtesy of Valentino

Valentino: The Museum

-------

Today in New York, Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti announce the new, virtual Valentino Museum, a downloadable foray into the designer’s world. After downloading the application at valentino-garavani-archives.org, users connect to an online database that includes more than 300 archival dresses as well as sketches, illustrations, advertising campaigns, editorials, and red carpet moments from the house’s history. Anne Hathaway, Vogue Italia‘s Franca Sozzani, and Google’s Amit Sood join Garavani and Giammetti at the Museum of Modern Art at 11 a.m. EST to announce the new project; the press conference live-streams below. The application will be available for downloading immediately afterwards.

A Dress Fit For A Fairy-Tale Princess—Courtesy Of Donatella Versace

-------


Cheburashka. Bremenskie Muzikanti. If you have a hard time pronouncing the table names at Natalia Vodianova’s White Fairy Tale Love Ball, you won’t be alone. “Natalia is driving the calligrapher crazy,” Giancarlo Giammetti said yesterday at his Left Bank home. The Russian supermodel is, as she put it, “in the last few hundred yards of a marathon,” preparing for the fundraiser for her Naked Heart Foundation being held at Valentino’s Chateau Wideville outside Paris tomorrow night. Vodianova’s kids’ favorite Soviet-era cartoons (Google the Russian names above for vintage clips) partly inspired the gala. “A charity fashion show isn’t a new idea; it’s been done by many people,” she said. “But I thought fairy-tale dresses—the ultimate Cinderella dresses—by the world’s top designers would be something interesting.” Forty-five of fashion’s finest agreed to create gowns for the evening’s auction. Vodianova thinks Donatella Versace’s kokoshnik dress (pictured) will be a hit. “She went for it,” she said. The funds raised will go to Naked Heart’s new efforts to support children with special needs. And what is the fairy-tale spinner herself wearing for the occasion? Valentino red, of course, “like Little Red Riding Hood.”

Photo: Courtesy of Paolo Roversi for the Naked Heart Foundation

Blasblog: Valentino Toasts Marina Cicogna’s Glamour Shots

-------

Perhaps it’s a reaction to the still bleak economy, but many visitors we spoke to at the Frieze Art Fair in London this year were a touch disappointed with the lack of pretty pictures. That is, until they arrived at the Little Black Gallery in Chelsea on Friday night, where Marina Cicogna’s glossy black-and-whites of the likes of Brigitte Bardot, Greta Garbo, Audrey Hepburn, and Catherine Deneuve were hanging. “It’d be hard to get more glamorous than these, no?” asked Valentino Garavani. “These pictures are of one of the most beautiful, special times in history.” Prince and Princess Michael of Kent, Tamara Beckwith, Rupert Everett, and Andrea Dellal were all inclined to agree. Continue Reading “Blasblog: Valentino Toasts Marina Cicogna’s Glamour Shots” »

Blasblog: Happy Printed Accidents At Val’s VIP After-Party

-------


The thought of spilling something on a white dress sends shivers down the spines of most young women, so when that exact thing happened to Anne Hathaway—with a glass of red wine, unleashed by none other than Valentino—at last night’s dinner in honor of The Last Emperor, we weren’t sure what to expect. Would she burst into tears, crawl under the table, or close her eyes and hope tablemates Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Claire Danes wouldn’t notice she was there? None of the above. Instead, the Oscar nominee laughed it off. “He came out of retirement, just for me,” Hathaway joked at Giancarlo Giammetti’s Richard Prince-filled apartment in the Pierre at the after-party. “I guess he just thought this dress needed a print.”