10 posts tagged "Gianfranco Ferre"
Gianfranco Ferré creative directors Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi announced today they are leaving the company, reports WWD. The duo took the helm in 2011, fresh on the heels of Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. Pre-Fall 2014 will be Citron and Piaggi’s final collection for the house, and the company confirmed there will not be a Fall ’14 ready-to-wear collection during Milan fashion week next February.
Since the death of Ferré in 2007, the label has faced significant financial and creative struggles. Whoever steps into the role next will no doubt have their work cut out for them.
There’s another seat open at the designer fashion table. News broke today that Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi (above), creative directors of Gianfranco Ferré, are out at the Italian house (no word on their namesake collection, which presumably will continue for the present). Reports blame dwindling sales for the duo’s departure. But they’re only the latest in a string of designers who have left or been ousted from their positions at major European labels: Milan Vukmirovic at Trussardi 1911; Clare Waight Keller at Pringle of Scotland; Vanessa Seward at Azzaro. (Christophe Decarnin is out at Balmain, though under murkier circumstances; and of course, John Galliano has been let go from both Christian Dior and his namesake label. Although Chloé’s Hannah MacGibbon has been signed for another season, some industry observers are speculating that her time at the label is nearing a close—a speculation not necessarily refuted by the terse statements label CEO Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye has been giving the press.)
No one would argue that getting fired is fun. But it’s worth remembering that, in fashion at least, many of those who have been removed from their posts—either gently (with contracts not renewed) or not so gently—have gone on to bigger and better. The classic example is Yves Saint Laurent. The young designer took the top spot at Christian Dior when Dior himself died suddenly in 1957. Saint Laurent created a few headline-making shows, but soon after ran afoul of the management and was summarily dismissed. The result? His own label, founded in 1961. The rest, as they say, is history.
In more recent years, there’s the famous story of Marc Jacobs, fired from Perry Ellis after his seminal Spring ’93 grunge collection—too hot for the American label’s taste, but seen in retrospect as enduringly influential. (Patrick Robinson also got the axe at Perry Ellis before landing at another American sportswear legend: The Gap.) Both Peter Dundas and Giambattista Valli exited the house of Ungaro under dark clouds; today, their collections (for Emilio Pucci and for Valli’s namesake line) are among the most admired in fashion. Olivier Theyskens has gone from Rochas to Nina Ricci to current acclaim at Theory, and Alessandra Facchinetti, formerly of Gucci and Valentino, has found new life working on Tom Ford’s womenswear. As for Ford, he has seen both sides: famously losing his Gucci crown before starting his own empire, while also electing not to retain Alber Elbaz at YSL in the late nineties. “From every place or everything you do, you learn what to do and also you learn what not to do,” Elbaz told Style.com of the experience in an interview last year. “I would not change anything if you would ask me. I would still go through the experience I went through. I learned a lot from it. I went through a certain experience that wasn’t easy, but guess what? Nothing is easy anyway, so I’m fine with that.” As the creative director of Lanvin, Elbaz has brought the label back to relevance and racked up success after success; it may not be easy, but he sure makes it look that way.
What will the future hold for Aquilano and Rimondi, Decarnin, or even Galliano (whose own rather more complicated situation is discussed at length in WWD today)? Too soon to tell. Some will argue that in today’s economic climate opportunities will be fewer and corporate titans more inclined to pick low key, perhaps unknown designers. But to judge from the past, fashion is a merry go-round (or should that be rollercoaster?), and for some of these designers at least, it’s entirely possible that the best is yet to come.
This weekend, the 2010 MTV Europe Music Awards took place in Madrid, and a few of pop’s bigger stars (and their stylists) worked overtime to get their Spring ’11 dresses ready. Among those representing the U.S. of A. in Spain were Rihanna, Katy Perry, Miley Cyrus, and hostess Eva Longoria Parker, who cycled through a variety of costume changes throughout the evening.
The MTV awards are no Oscars, so the stars took the opportunity to have a little fun. Perry showed a little leg in a jokey but undeniably glam Spring ’11 Jeremy Scott ticket-stub dress with electric blue Sergio Rossi heels. Rihanna and Cyrus, on the other hand, both went long: RiRi in a one-shoulder tulle gown from Marchesa Spring ’11, Miley in a tiered, tied-with-a-bow D&G. For her part, Longoria Parker worked Emilio Pucci, Gianfranco Ferré, and Georges Hobeika at various points, but her most indelible look was her mock homage to the host country’s culinary tradition: a giant Serrano ham. Not the lady’s best look, but give her points for being a good sport.
Check them out above and let us know—whose look do you like best?
WWD sits down with McQueen’s successor, the self-described “shy” Sarah Burton, to hear about life after losing the late designer. It involves, apparently, an enormous amount of work, a great appreciation for McQueen dresses, and a little needlepoint in her spare time. [WWD]
Meanwhile, a much less shy woman, Naomi Campbell (left), celebrates 25 years of modeling with a yacht-side interview (for Interview, natch) with her pal, gallerist Tony Shafrazi. Campbell discusses not only her turbulent recent past, but her early years with Christy, Linda, Cindy, and her fellow supermodels—a title, incidentally, that she doesn’t much care for. Not a bad problem to have, if you ask us. [Interview]
Donna Karan hits the Web with the new DonnaKaran.com and dkny.com, featuring e-commerce, exclusive New York-related content, and a personal journal from Donna herself. [Donna Karan]
The U.S. private equity firm Prodos has made a final bid for Gianfranco Ferré, the historic Italian fashion house; the Italian government is expected to decide on their bid in the next two weeks, which could mean trouble for current designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. [Fashionologie]
Whoops: TV presenter accidentally announces the wrong winner on Australia’s Next Top Model. Try and smize through that one, girls. [Gawker]
Jennifer Lopez played Queen for the weekend—hubby Marc Anthony was named King of New York’s Puerto Rican Day Parade on Sunday. The regal bearing hasn’t worn off yet. J. Lo looked positively royal last night at the Apollo Theater’s Spring Benefit, where, along with Anthony, she picked up the Ruby Dee and Ossie Davis Arts and Humanitarian Award. Give her a gold star for the glamorous getup, too. Lopez shone (literally!) in a metallic Gianfranco Ferré dress that hugged her notoriously fabulous curves, which she paired with loose waves, Sergio Rossi heels, and an Etro clutch. She may still be Jenny from the block, but we’d say she’s fit for the throne. What do you think? Is Lopez good as gold, or is her star shining a little too bright?