4 posts tagged "Gianvito Rossi"
Well, the Spring '13 Gianvito Rossi for Altuzarra gladiator sandal does, anyway—in the form of one of the mag’s cheeky cartoons, no less. This week marks The New Yorker‘s style issue, and needless to say, Mr. Altuzarra was pretty tickled when he got his copy. “It was a huge surprise,” the designer told Style.com. “I had no idea it was happening. I actually thought it was a joke, like a fake cover, but when I realized it was real, obviously I felt honored. It’s the coolest thing.” Penned by Ana Juan, the caricature shows Altuzarra’s shoe against the New York skyline, to scale with the city’s skyscrapers (that is to say, megasized). ” I thought it was interesting because the shoe does have a monolithic quality,” offered Altuzarra, who joked that the pressure’s on to create an equally cover-worthy kick for his upcoming Resort collection.
It must be noted that Altuzarra’s shoe is in pretty good company—inside the style issue, you’ll find an in-depth interview with Met curator Andrew Bolton, who gives a behind-the-scenes look at the forthcoming Punk: Chaos to Couture exhibition; a story about an emerging (and pretty die-hard) punk community in Burma; and a piece about legendary New York tailor, Dapper Dan—hip-hop’s official haberdasher. The articles (and the cartoon) are all available to subscribers at www.newyorker.com.
On February 15, Phaidon Press will release Pattern, a book that highlights one hundred compelling fashion designers on the rise. Phaidon handed over the book’s curatorial duties to a group of ten designers and industry insiders (including stylist Keegan Singh, Preen’s Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, the SHOWstudio team, and Business of Fashion‘s founder Imran Amed, just to name a few), each of whom chose ten talents to fill Pattern‘s pages.
The book (which is a follow-up to the 2005 fashion tome SAMPLE) features established designers (Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang, Christopher Kane, Sarah Burton), well-known emerging labels (Eddie Borgo, Thomas Tait, Creatures of the Wind, Mary Katrantzou, whose work is pictured above), and proper newbies (Simone Rocha, Marques’ Almeida, Phoebe English, Maarten van der Horst). The designers’ diverse aesthetics, techniques and outlooks are presented via detailed introductions, backstage, campaign and editorial photographs, and never-before-seen sketches, all of which serve to give readers an in-depth understanding of their work. “For me, seeing that the designers had a consistent point of view that’s true to their style was important,” said Singh, whose picks include Cushnie et Ochs (left), Olivier Rousteing of Balmain, Tabitha Simmons, Dominic Jones, and Gianvito Rossi, among others. “You know, it’s like Azzedine Alaïa. He has his thing, and he always sticks to it,” he added. So does Singh think the next Alaïa is somewhere between Pattern‘s covers? “It’s a possibility!” he laughed. At the very least, he notes, “the book gives the young designers a chance to reach broader audiences; it exposes them to a whole new group of people.”
Pattern: 100 Fashion Designers, 10 Curators will be available on February 15, on phaidon.com.
Being the son of Sergio Rossi, Gianvito Rossi has something of a footwear pedigree. But rather than grow under his father’s brand, the Rimini, Italy-based designer decided to strike out solo. He’s built his own eponymous line at a deliberate pace; after launching in September 2006, Gianvito gradually developed his brand into a worldwide presence. In the U.S., he’s carried at Barneys, where his ongoing collaboration with Joseph Altuzarra has been turning heads. While in New York for the week, Rossi spoke with Style.com about his design DNA and his overarching concept.
Having grown up in the footwear business, do you think your style is different from your father’s?
It’s different in a way, but it takes a lot of the DNA. I’ve worked for my father since I was 17, so it’s very much in me. I think what changes is the point of view. You mix your experience with the ideas and concept.
Is there an overarching concept?
The shoe is really more a frame than a piece of art. Some designers may think this way, that it’s more art. For me, the piece of art is women. We’re making something that’s really an accessory.
On the topic of women, is it gratifying to make a beautiful shoe for a woman?
There’s great satisfaction and especially when you see them pleased to wear it. Sometimes, I see a woman who wears sky-high heels and maybe she’s uncomfortable. It changes her mood and in the end is stressful for her. But when she wears a shoe she likes, her whole way about her changes. It’s not only about looking at the shoe then, you can see it in her face.
You work with Joseph Altuzarra on the footwear for his line. How did you two originally link up?
Joseph called me because I was suggested by some friends. At the time, I was in my third collection and I had structured the company step by step, and it was the first time that the production was going very smoothly. He was starting his fashion show and I thought he was a nice guy, so why not? We’ve been collaborating for two and half years now. He’s really a nice guy to work with and I think the designs are looking strong.
Our Fall Accessory Report, of course. For our biannual guide, senior market editor Marina Larroude picked the trends of the season, from the envelope clutch to the new loafer to anything and everything with a sprinkling of feathers and fur. Her complete picks are live here. And if that’s not enough bags, shoes, and jewelry for the accessory obsessives out there, you can glut yourself on the Fall ’11 Accessories Index, our comprehensive guide to almost 5,000 (!) of the seasons’ best. Happy browsing.
Above: Loafer by Pollini; pump by Gianvito Rossi; clutch by Salvatore Ferragamo.