48 posts tagged "Giles Deacon"
Last week, the first regional winners of the International Woolmark Prize were named in the U.S., Europe, and China; following the upcoming announcements of the Australian and Indian winners, the finalists will compete for the global award at London fashion week. Style.com’s Tim Blanks was on the judging panel of the European edition of the prize; he writes in with notes from the judges’ bench.
“I’m used to being judged, not judging,” sighed Alber Elbaz more than once during Thursday’s European heat of the International Woolmark Prize. The 21 designers from 11 countries that Elbaz and his co-judges—fellow designers Giles Deacon and Dean and Dan Caten; Vogue editors Alexandra Shulman and Christiane Arp; and me as the Sancho Panza of the posse—were assessing represented the usual apples-and-oranges challenge of all such contests, but at least the criteria were crystal clear so it was relatively straightforward to edit them down to a final handful. And then Twelve Angry Men Syndrome kicked in, with occasionally heated debate among jury members. Passionately argued positions dissolved, allegiances shifted, wine flowed (for at least one juror), but it was finally those closely studied criteria that carried Belgium’s Christian Wijnants (left, with Albaz)—at 34, almost a veteran in this context—to the top of the heap with a capsule collection of knit dresses that matched expert technique to an inspired color sense. He’ll face off against Sophie Théallet (U.S.A.), Ban Xiao Xue (China), and yet-to-be-announced designers from Australia and India at the grand finale during London fashion week in February.
For me, the real pleasure of the day was watching Elbaz rise to his responsibilities. Less judge than mentor, he gave all sorts of subtle insights into his own working methods. Turkey’s Ipek Arnas showed a dress with a complex intarsia covering its front. Too in-your-face banal for Elbaz. He advised the designer to reverse the dress, and presto! It took on an entirely different personality. “Now there is a surprise,” he said, satisfied. Elbaz was seduced by the ingenious top half of J.W. Anderson’s outfit, but less taken with the skirt, so he asked to see it just with the underlying crinoline. The result was scarcely as its creator had intended, but that top truly came into its own.
“When you finish a collection, do you love it the next day or hate it?” Elbaz asked a young Italian duo. He was clearly speaking from experience, so it wasn’t surprising that he confessed to being nonplussed by the unambiguously upbeat answers he got to his probing questions, at least in the initial stages of the judging process. “Unhappiness is the motor to move things forward,” Elbaz offered. Take this to heart, designers of the future: Dissatisfaction is an asset.
For those who never had the chance to see Jim Morrison (pictured) or Jimi Hendrix perform, you may soon get your chance. The estates of the iconic musicians are both reportedly working on future holographic live performances, similar to the Tupac one that appeared at Coachella this year. [Rolling Stone]
The runners and spectators at this summer’s Olympic Games are going to be treated to designer blankets and badges, courtesy of Giles Deacon and Jeremy Deller. The fashion designer and the conceptual artist, along with eight other designer/artist duos, paired up for the British Fashion Council/Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation’s 12-week project, and they were surprisingly the only ones to make a wearable piece—a full-body running suit and a leaf and feather headdress to match. (The blankets and badges are accompanying elements of their project.) [Telegraph]
In other Brit fashion news, J.W. Anderson and James Long have been selected as U.K. representatives and nominees for the International Woolmark Prize. The global honor, which is supported by the Australian Wool Industry, aims to celebrate emerging talent for their use of merino wool. Anderson and Long follow the lead of designers Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld, who received the same prize in 1954. [Vogue U.K.]
Anna Dello Russo was swarmed by paparazzi yesterday at the Salvatore Ferragamo show in Paris. However, it was not the Vogue Nippon editor that they were trying to photograph, but Chinese actress Fan Bingbing. We are happy to report that ADR made it into the Louvre, sans injury. [Page Six]
Giles Deacon’s Emanuel Ungaro Spring 2012 collection, set to show at Salle Wagram on October 3, will be his last for the label. Today, WWD reports that Deacon and Ungaro have “mutually decided” to end working together. As for who will take the reigns next at Ungaro, we don’t know yet. Let the guessing game begin.