72 posts tagged "Giorgio Armani"
Last June, the Camera Nazionale della Mode Italiana held a very serious press conference to address the very serious issue of Milan’s waning fashion week. Gildo Zegna told a room of journalists that he had heard MFW described as “boring.” That’s somewhat unsurprising, given the city’s lack of new energy and fresh perspective. The heavy hitters on hand vowed to make changes, and though the audience of international journalists was skeptical, there are some signs that the issues are being addressed. An early draft of the Spring ’15 MFW schedule has begun circulating, and it seems there’s been a bit of a designer shuffle. According to WWD, a strong focus has been put on Italy’s emerging talents. Stella Jean and Andrea Incontri, for instance, will show right before Gucci on September 17, and Au Jour Le Jour (above) and MSGM will show on September 21, the same day as Marni and Salvatore Ferragamo. Perhaps the thinking is that the press won’t skip the newbies if they’re sandwiched between the major houses—and the move matches up with Camera CEO Jane Reeve’s goal to help Italian up-and-comers build their businesses internationally. Giorgio Armani, too, has been a staunch supporter of youngsters, allowing one lucky designer to show in his Armani Teatro free of charge each season. (Angelos Bratis is his Spring ’15 pick.) It would be nice, as our editor in chief suggested last year, to see Milan drawing new designers from around the globe to MFW—that would really spice things up—but helping homegrown talents is a start.
Giorgio Armani has become a major advocate for young designers. For the Spring ’15 menswear season, he hosted Christian Pellizzari’s show at the Armani Teatro, and for the women’s shows in September, Angelos Bratis will take the stage. This is the sixth season Armani has championed emerging design talents in Italy.
“My initiative in supporting little-known but promising designers is paying off, and personally I’m quite passionate about it,” Armani said in a statement. “The future of the system depends on new generations, and I am happy to be able to contribute in an active way.”
Bratis, who was born and trained in Athens, also studied in a Dutch atelier before landing in Milan. His aesthetic is clean and minimal, with quietly complex details that earned him the 2011 Who’s On Next prize. “I am truly honored to have been chosen by Giorgio Armani to present my new collection in his prestigious theater in Milan,” Bratis said. “For me, the great Italian maestro is the perfect example of a designer who has deep values, expressed throughout a long career. These are the same values that I try to express in my work: femininity and pure elegance without artifice.”
While Angelos Bratis’ show date is TBD, Milan fashion week will take place from September 17 to 22.
Over the past decade, the Who Is On Next competition has become a champion of Italy’s design strength. Yesterday’s tenth edition of the competition (sponsored by Alta Roma and Vogue Italia with Yoox.com), along with the accompanying exhibition in Rome, was a testament to both its impressive history and its promising future.
The three designers who joined the winner’s circle were Salvatore Piccione, Aliza Shalali Daizy, and Milica Stankovic. Piccione’s ladylike shapes, covered with engineered prints, beading, and embroidery, depict an imaginary garden world of flowers and bumble bees for his Piccione.Piccione collection. “The more detailed things are, the more excited I become,” said Piccione, who is originally from Sicily, backstage after the show. The London-based designer and print master has worked with the likes of Mary Katrantzou, Longchamp, and Céline.
Israeli designer Aliza Shalali Daizy, of Daizy Shely, also took top honors for her complex embellishments, an exuberant mix of feathers, geometric beading with hand- and digital-print leather. Daizy, who has lived in Milan for five years, decided to stay on after studying fashion at Istituto Marangoni. “I worked so hard for the past six months creating all the fabrics because I believe in what I’m doing,” she said.
Serbian designer Milica Stankovic won for her Corion bag collection, which mixes lattice-braided calfskin and reptile with sculptured metal handles, all made in Tuscany. Stankovic, based in Paris, worked with Jean Paul Gaultier and Jean-Claude Jitrois and was inspired to start her label by her grandfather, a former tailor to the king of Serbia.
Last night’s exhibition at the Museo di Roma in the Palazzo Braschi also showcased the pieces by all past winners, from 2009′s Marco de Vincenzo (whose brand has recently been picked up by LVMH) to Stella Jean, who won in 2011 with her mix of African wax prints and fifties shapes. 2013′s winner, Austrian Arthur Arbesser, produces his collection in Milan, but he came back to Rome to see the competition. Arbesser, who launched his brand after working for Giorgio Armani, will present his first runway show in Milan next September.
Giorgio Armani has released its Fall ’14 ad campaign, and the snaps are a serene and alluring visual feast. The house tapped photographer Sølve Sundsbø for the first time this season, having previously worked with Mert & Marcus, and the ads star models Marikka Juhler and George Alsford. The final results appear above, but wouldn’t you love to know what goes on behind the scenes? Well, your curiosity can end now. A candid image and a short film depicting what went down on set debut here, exclusively on Style.com.