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August 22 2014

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3 posts tagged "Gosha Ruchinsky"

Emerging Talents Give Dover Street Market New York a New Beginning

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DSM

On Saturday, after a two-day closure, Dover Street Market New York, Rei Kawakubo’s seven-floor multibrand fashion wonderland open since last December, celebrated its inaugural “new beginning,” with just-arrived Fall ’14 merchandise and fresh shop-in-shops. Melitta Baumeister, whose career was catapulted when Rihanna wore her oversize black biker jacket in Paris back in March, and Hood by Air’s Shayne Oliver are two new additions to the store’s fourth-floor DSM Showroom, which is devoted to emerging designers. They join a roster that includes Craig Green, Jacquemus, Phoebe English, KTZ, 1205, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Proper Gang, Shaun Samson, and Sibling. We checked in with the new recruits and a quartet of the floor’s returning talents to talk about Kawakubo’s lasting influence, their new installations, and the “beautiful chaos” that is DSM.

Melitta

MELITTA BAUMEISTER
“The Comme des Garçons campaign collaboration with Cindy Sherman in 1994 stopped me in my tracks. I remember being completely blown away,” Baumeister recalls. “So I’m very happy to be with a group of creators [now] that have a mutual understanding on fashion, to be part of a showroom that believes in the importance of creating new experiences of how fashion can be consumed, in a world of beautiful chaos. To be in an environment where the brand is understood will no doubt give [me] the confidence to go further with bigger dreams.”

HOOD BY AIR (SHAYNE OLIVER)
“Going to the Comme des Garçons flagship for the first time here in New York changed my life, and molded my thought process on creating a fashion brand that is meant for you, and only you,” Oliver remembers. “The shopping experience at Dover Street Market is [likewise] unique and special. I think it really works well with the HBA concept and vibe. We want to make people feel immersed in our world, in the whole experience of the brand. [Our shop-in-shop] is a conversation with our customers outside of the traditional realm of fashion.”

Craig Green

CRAIG GREEN
“All the Dover Street Market stores have a totally stand-alone and unique way of working. The amazing and forever-changing interiors make for a dynamic and exciting space and experience,” Green says. “The main idea behind our new Fall ’14 space was to put the highly detailed, hand-painted pieces against the raw quality of untreated wooden structures. We used large hand-painted fabric rugs as hangings to demonstrate what the garments themselves have been cut from.

Phoebe

PHOEBE ENGLISH
“DSMNY is different to other stores as it’s not really just a store, it’s a destination and an environmental experience, which heightens, celebrates, and elevates the incredible stock they hold,” English says. “In many ways it’s also a mecca for young creatives justifying and contextualizing the work they’re making; [that's what] the London store was for me when I was studying at Central Saint Martins. We wanted this space to [feel] unexpected, sort of like a surprise or a bit of drama injected into a retail environment. The raw naturalism of the collapsed cliff face against the clothes hanging on the suspended rails—something beautiful and refined in a broken space. I [also] wanted it to represent the dialogue of material, which informs each collection. I worked with art director Philip Cooper. It was about balancing the ethos of how I work creatively with the reality of shopping.”

Lee RoachLEE ROACH

“The opportunity to completely change the space seasonally allows us to truly represent the season’s ideas and concepts,” Roach says. “Our Fall ’14 space remains minimal with the introduction of new square metal fixtures. We’ve introduced stand-alone, industrial two-arm rails to highlight the collection’s fabrication and construction, which remain fundamental. I would like people to touch and try on the clothes.”

SIBLING (SID BRYAN, JOE BATES, COZETTE MCCREERY)

“DSMNY feels like being in an interactive art space but without any of the pretense,” the Sibling trio says. “It’s been fantastic to see how artists and creatives interpret the Sibling vision each time. We loved collaborating with Uncommon Projects [on the leopard shelving and screen unit], Richard Woods [using the catwalk recolored version of his iconic wood print as wallpaper], and now with artist James Davison. We saw James’ work recently via the journalist Charlie Porter. He’d uploaded a video of James’ window display with moving parts and amazing color. It also felt like he’d had fun doing it. All of which is very much what Sibling is about, so we didn’t think twice about working with him and sent him catwalk pictures and a very relaxed brief. Relaxed because we always like collaborative works to come more from the artist.”

Photos: Courtesy Photos

This Rave Mix by Gosha Rubchinskiy Will Make You Miss the Nineties

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goshamix

Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy has a knack for appropriating global youth countercultures—skateboarding, heavy metal, punk rock—and flipping it into clothes that play simultaneously on nostalgia and modern style. So it’s fitting that for this mix curated by Rubchinskiy for Oki-Ni, the designer went to rave music from the 1990s. Produced by Zhit Vredno (which translates as “harmful to live”), whom Rubchinskiy met at a rave in Moscow, tracks cover industrial techno, early Chicago house, and nineties rave. Listen now, and visit Oki-Ni to hear what Rubchinskiy has to say about the project.

Blasblog From Moscow: The Third Time Is The Charm

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In the past two decades, as Russia transitioned from a Communist country to a more democratic one, the country’s fashion industry has scrambled to catch up aesthetically with the Western world. Handfuls of fashion magazines (including Vogue, Bazaar, Tatler, and Vanity Fair) appeared and new retail outposts stocking Paris and Milan designers began to thrive. Moscow even sprouted a pair of dueling fashion weeks—one sponsored by IMG, the other not—that competed for international attention. The problem was, with so much spread out, it was hard for the cream to rise to the top, which is why Anna Dyulgerova, a former Russian Vogue fashion editor, created a third fashion week (or, if we’re going to get technical, fashion weekend) to showcase the country’s chicest designers. “There wasn’t really a celebration of our own fashion,” Dyulgerova said. “All the designers worth seeing have been showing separately from any official weeks in Moscow. That’s why we’ve put together five of the nicest names in Russian fashion and asked them to show their collections.” On her roster: Konstantin Gayday, whose subversive collection of black dresses was accented in zippers and fur (no surprise on the fur front); Vardoui Nazarian, who showed cutout separates; Terexov, whom insiders will recognize from the New York fashion calendar; Gosha Rubchinsky, whose menswear show was cast from boys on the street—some with stitches on their faces (that’s a pic from the show); and Teplov, a collection of mainly cashmere coats that debuted at the Ritz. Joining Dyulgerova were the likes of Colette’s Sarah Lerfel, Purple‘s Olivier Zahm, and Visionaire‘s Cecilia Dean. Visit www.cyclesandseasons.com for more images.

 

 

Photo: Courtesy of Derek Blasberg