5 posts tagged "Gripoix"
Freelance stylist Elisa Nalin may have her ex-husband to thank for her latest project with storied French jewelry house Gripoix. “The only present he gave me that I ever liked was a vintage Gripoix necklace,” she laughed. Last year, she was spotted wearing it at a Chanel show, and in short order Nalin and Gripoix owner Marie Keslassy were dreaming up the Fall ’14 collection. “She’s really a traveler, she picks up things all over the place that are fascinating and not necessarily luxurious,” commented Keslassy. “It became our project to take those ideas and spin them in a colorful, more luxurious way.” Cue a wide “Byzantine revisited” necklace in matte yellow and turquoise poured glass that does a convincing imitation of the real semiprecious stone. Elsewhere, candy-colored bracelets are strung into a sautoir, and slim, colorful rings can pair off or be worn on many fingers. “The matte finish really makes the colors pop,” offered Nalin. The Cleopatra necklace is a showstopper. Maybe we should all thank Nalin’s ex-husband.
Just try to find a picture of Coco Chanel without her signature strands of pearls—it’s not an easy task. The woman certainly loved her little black jackets and dresses, but she also had a well-known penchant for jewelry. In honor of what would be the designer’s 129th birthday (August 19), 1stdibs.com is launching an online birthday capsule collection sale of Chanel jewelry and accessories. Starting tomorrow at 3 p.m., over 60 necklaces, sautoirs, brooches, bracelets, and earrings dating from the sixties through 2008, curated by Douglas Rosin Decorative Arts & Antiques, will be for sale on the site. Especially of note in the collection (ranging in price from $500 to $5,000) are the designs adorned with colored stones and faux pearls, made by the Paris-based specialists at Gripoix (which handmade a great deal of Chanel’s jewelry). Here, a first look at one of the Gripoix pieces in the sale.
“It’s a fantasy, darling!” sang Catherine Baba, eccentric stylist and tastemaker extraordinaire, from her desk at the Gripoix glass workshop. Tomorrow, Baba will debut her first ever jewelry collection, a collaboration with Maison Gripoix, which, established in 1868, is most famous for its early work with Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, and Elsa Schiaparelli.
Baba, who’s renowned for her styling work with Givenchy, Balmain, Dazed & Confused, and Vanity Fair (just to name a few), her glamorous vintage aesthetic, and her ability to pedal her bike around Paris in sky-high stilettos, has been working on the 12-piece collection since January. “It’s been a difficult birth,” says Baba, explaining that the jewelry is inspired by her own extensive vintage collection and the Romantic and Decadent periods. The works of Yeats, Oscar Wilde, Lord Byron, and illustrator Aubrey Beardsley are infused in each plated-gold and glass bauble.
“She will make anyone look like a diva,” says Baba, gesturing to a blue, red, and absinthe green (“it’s the color of the poets’ drug”) harness-cum-belt she calls the Phoenix. And when the jewelry is worn as intended—that is, piled on—it could make anyone seem like Baba reincarnated. The designer wears her creations just so while gliding around the stone studio, where her Salomé headpiece, named after a work Wilde wrote for Sarah Bernhardt, is being finished with a blowtorch. Her 1920′s silk peignoir, which she describes as her “workwear,” is cinched with the collection’s winged belt. Peacock-inspired blue earrings dangle around her painted face, and her Dragon pendant, finished with a tassel (“we love a pompom!”), completes her decadent look. Her left hand boasts the Vanity ring, a functional accoutrement that cleverly opens to reveal a mirror. “This collection is for my life. I can’t put everything in my little clutch, so it would be nice to wear some of my makeup,” she says, pulling out the Venus cuff, which doubles as a powder compact. The Geisha necklace, made of chain-mail gold with a red glass teardrop, also has a function—it’s an ever elegant lipstick holder. But Baba, who proudly admits she’s designed the collection for herself, asserts, “These pieces are playful but they’re not just gadgets. They’re couture, darling!”
Couture wrapped up in Paris this week, but before the buyers and editors bid adieu to the season, the jewelers got to have their say. At the annual haute joaillerie day, several of the largest houses showed their fine jewelry collections. Below, the brightest and most extravagant baubles from Chanel, Dior, Van Cleef & Arpels, and more.
After her lover Boy Capel’s death, Coco Chanel traveled to Venice for a change of scene. The trip to the great port city opened the door to a new love story—one with exotic cultures (and their jewelry), from Istanbul to Russia and points East. Chanel’s haute jewelers channeled the visit with a colorful array of rubies, emeralds, and pink sapphires worked into an articulated necklace for the Mosaique suite and the Persian cuff (pictured). The house’s signature Camellia takes a lacy turn with delicate arabesques in white gold, diamonds and pearls, a creation that required untold hours of painstaking laser design.
Chez Dior Joaillerie, the setting, too, is a gem. When Peter Marino refurbished the house’s hôtel particulier on the Place Vendome, he complemented the jewels by incorporating exceptional pieces of art from the LVMH collection, like a gray butterfly relief by Damian Hirst and one-off lamps by Véronique Rivemal. It made a fitting home for Dior’s Crystal Vendome watches, and new additions to the Coffret de Victoire collection, like the bejeweled poissons combattants—or as we’d call them in English, Siamese fighting fish (pictured). Continue Reading “All That Glitters Is Gold—And Diamonds, Usually—At Paris’ Haute Joaillerie Day” »
Vintage hounds and the fashion fluent know Gripoix as one of the old-school specialists that has serviced couture houses for decades. Particularly famous for its collaborations with Chanel, it’s been the ne plus ultra of pate de verre (poured glass) jewelry since 1869. The company was acquired in 2006 by vintage jewelry collector Marie-Pierre Keslassy, whose current aim is to turn Gripoix into a name that stands on its own and has recognition beyond insider circles.
To that end, Keslassy created five entirely new collections, all with different themes. Fans of Chanel’s iconic cross necklaces, sautoirs, and cuffs will instantly spot a family resemblance in the Mythic Parisienne and French Riviera categories. Meanwhile, pieces such as hair combs and toe rings in the Byzantine, Glamour, and Rock ‘n’ Roll ranges are thoroughly modern creations. Nevertheless, all the pieces are still made in Gripoix’s historic ateliers on the Rue Oberkampf. “There is such richness and beauty in the archives,” says Keslassy. “There’s no end to the inspiration to be found there.” She adds, “This project is like bringing Grandma’s armoires back to life.” Well, that is, if you had a very chic mémère. From armoire to boudoir, a rice powder scent and candles will soon join the new lineup. For the time being, Gripoix has found a home in Paris at Colette, which currently has a massive stock of pieces. Its first boutique, however, will be in London at 108 Mount Street, scheduled to open on October 26.