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July 23 2014

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4 posts tagged "Gucci Group"

Concerning The It Bag

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This week’s New Yorker takes an in-depth look at one of fashion’s most intriguing (not to mention most tight-lipped) personalities: Tomas Maier, the German-born creative director of Bottega Veneta, who’s credited with bringing the label back from the brink of bankruptcy. How’d he do it? By embracing discretion and insider-style luxury when the world was still at the height of logomania-and its most visible avatar, the It Bag.

“There was a stage when, however unappealing something was, if it had enough logos written all over it, somebody seemed to buy it,” Suzy Menkes tells the magazine, calling the period “a worldwide aberration.” Maier is on the record as anti-It Bag, too: It is “totally marketed bullshit crap,” he says. His rejoinder to it: the woven, unfeminine Cabat bag, left, which is painstaking to craft (only one person can work on any single bag, because no two people pull the leather to the same tension). But of course, the Cabats are notoriously expensive-up to almost $80,000 for a special-order croc model and produced in limited quantities, so there’s frequently a wait list for one. Tom Ford-who hired Maier for the Bottega position when he ran Bottega’s corporate parent, Gucci Group-sums up the paradox in what could pass for a fashion-world Zen koan: “By not doing the It Bag, you do the It Bag,” he says.

John Colapinto’s full article is available to subscribers on newyorker.com.

Photo: Courtesy of Bottega Veneta

The Queen of Gucci Group Greets Her Subjects

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It was a fairytale romance—love, marriage, baby, if not necessarily in that order—for Salma Hayek and PPR chairman François-Henri Pinault, who controls the Gucci Group portfolio of labels. And like any faithful spouse (and fashion lover), Mrs. P supports her husband and his business. Hayek arrived on the arm of the Chairman to four of Gucci Group’s shows in Paris this season, often in the designer’s own looks. Left to right, here she is in YSL at Yves Saint Laurent, at Stella McCartney, in Alexander McQueen at Alexander McQueen, and with Orlando Bloom at Balenciaga. We’d say she cut a striking figure throughout the entire week. (Props for the daring turban, too; bet we won’t see one of those on the Hollywood red carpet any time soon.) Which do you like best?

Photos: Pascal Le Segretain / Getty Images (Stella McCartney); Boisiere / SIPA Press (Alexander McQueen); ANG / Fame Pictures (Balenciaga); Boisiere / SIPA Press (Yves Saint Laurent)

Sarah Burton Appointed At Alexander McQueen

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The show goes on. It was announced today that Sarah Burton (pictured)—McQueen’s right-hand woman for 14 years, and since 2000 the head of design for his womenswear—has been appointed creative director of the Alexander McQueen brand. (She also finished the Fall 2010 collection after his death.) “The creation of modern, beautifully crafted clothes was at the heart of Lee’s vision. I intend to stay true to his legacy,” Burton said in a statement. So does his corporate backer, Gucci Group. CEO Robert Polet added that the company plans to give Burton and her team “full support…in the coming years.”

Photo: David Burton/Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

At Alexander McQueen, The Show Will Go On

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Gucci Group chief executive Robert Polet announced today that the Alexander McQueen label would not be shuttered, despite the tragic suicide of its founder and creative director last week. The Fall 2010 collection will be shown as scheduled during Paris fashion week on March 9. A new designer has yet to be named. For more details, see WWD.

Plus, click here for Tim Blanks’ memorial to Lee McQueen, and here for Sarah Mower’s last interview with the legendary showman.