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September 2 2014

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109 posts tagged "Gucci"

Claire Goldsmith Keeps It in the Family

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Oliver Goldsmith“A good pair of sunglasses will make you look hot no matter what,” said Claire Goldsmith—and she should know. The London-based designer is the great-granddaughter of Oliver Goldsmith, who became London’s leading creator of high-fashion frames when he launched his label in 1926. The still-family-owned-and-run brand was favored by Audrey Hepburn (remember those black stunners in Breakfast at Tiffany’s? Oliver Goldsmith), Michael Caine, Peter Sellers, and Grace Kelly, who had 42 pairs. Dior and Givenchy commissioned Goldsmith to make custom shades for the runway, and Vidal Sassoon enlisted OG to design the iconic pyramid glasses, shaped specifically to complement the hairstylist’s arched bangs, featured in a 1969 campaign. “[My grandfather] broke the mold,” asserted Claire. “And he built himself a reputation of being the best.”

He may have been the best, but Goldsmith’s business, which in its prime turned out eccentric styles like butterfly frames, winking shades, and Union Jack glasses, shuttered in 1985. He was forced to close his doors due to the original logomania movement and the popularity of sunnies embellished with the emblems of big brands (Gucci, Versace, and the like). “When I was little, I actually recall saying to my dad, ‘Can you get me a pair of Gucci sunglasses?’ And I just remember his face—he was horrified,” Claire said.

Oliver Goldsmith

Years later, Claire found herself studying marketing at college, where she specialized in heritage brands. “Finally, I kind of naturally came around to thinking, Well, hang on a minute, my family has a heritage brand. Why don’t we make glasses anymore?” She couldn’t find a single reason why the market should be deprived of OG’s fit, craftsmanship, and utterly unique wares, so in 2005, Claire put Olivier Goldsmith back on the board. Today, OG offers vintage shapes as part of its Icons series, as well as ready-to-wear and custom-fit styles, all of which are handmade in England (just as her grandfather would have insisted). “Someone described us as the ‘best-kept secret in eyewear,’” Claire recalled. “But I’d really like to be less of a secret.”

Claire Goldsmith

After five years of reworking her kin’s eccentric designs, Claire had racked up her fair share of inspiration, and in 2010, she decided it was time to follow in her grandfather’s footsteps and bow her own brand. CG Eyewear, a dynamic line of made-in-Italy frames, was born. “CG is a whole lot more personal and emotional,” Claire told me. “I would say with Oliver Goldsmith, I’m a narrator. But with Claire, I’m much more sensitive. I think it’s nice to have a playground of sorts where we can produce glasses at the same level of quality and care, but aesthetically, we’re free to do what we want.” Naturally, she’s influenced by her grandfather’s handwriting, but Claire insists that her own collection is younger, more colorful, and “you can clearly see that it does not look vintage.”

As far as her hopes for her fledgling brand, Claire offered, “It would be so lovely to get people to start buying some really good, well-designed eyewear. It’s such an important accessory. People always say, ‘Oh, my God, your lenses are amazing [compared with big-name designer styles]. Like, noticeably better!’ We just have to catch [clients] first, and then we’ve got them for life.” Seeing as Oliver Goldsmith and Claire’s line are stocked at more than 300 points of sale worldwide, including Barneys New York, it seems more and more sunglass connoisseurs are falling into her well-lensed net.

For more information, visit olivergoldsmith.com and clairegoldsmith.com.

Photo: Courtesy Photos 

Are Italian Up-and-Comers the Answer to Milan’s Sleepy Fashion Week?

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au jour le jour

Last June, the Camera Nazionale della Mode Italiana held a very serious press conference to address the very serious issue of Milan’s waning fashion week. Gildo Zegna told a room of journalists that he had heard MFW described as “boring.” That’s somewhat unsurprising, given the city’s lack of new energy and fresh perspective. The heavy hitters on hand vowed to make changes, and though the audience of international journalists was skeptical, there are some signs that the issues are being addressed. An early draft of the Spring ’15 MFW schedule has begun circulating, and it seems there’s been a bit of a designer shuffle. According to WWD, a strong focus has been put on Italy’s emerging talents. Stella Jean and Andrea Incontri, for instance, will show right before Gucci on September 17, and Au Jour Le Jour (above) and MSGM will show on September 21, the same day as Marni and Salvatore Ferragamo. Perhaps the thinking is that the press won’t skip the newbies if they’re sandwiched between the major houses—and the move matches up with Camera CEO Jane Reeve’s goal to help Italian up-and-comers build their businesses internationally. Giorgio Armani, too, has been a staunch supporter of youngsters, allowing one lucky designer to show in his Armani Teatro free of charge each season. (Angelos Bratis is his Spring ’15 pick.) It would be nice, as our editor in chief suggested last year, to see Milan drawing new designers from around the globe to MFW—that would really spice things up—but helping homegrown talents is a start.

Photos: Courtesy of Au Jour Le Jour

People Are Buying a Lot of Saint Laurent Dresses

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Saint Laurent

Despite their hefty price tags, which range anywhere from $2,490 to $68,000, Saint Laurent dresses are in seriously high demand. According to Bloomberg, Hedi Slimane’s frocks have been selling so well that they’ve compensated for Gucci’s declining handbag sales and helped to raise parent company Kering’s profits by a whopping 4 percent. Looks like there are more moneyed scenesters out there than we had originally thought.

Photo: Alessandro Garofalo/ Indigitalimages.com

Here’s What Our Editors Will Be Buying for Fall

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It may be warm here in New York today, but the Fall collections are already hitting stores and cooler weather is just around the corner. Our Fall Shopping Guide should help you ready your wardrobe for the autumn months, but for some further inspiration, have a look at our editors’ Fall picks, below.

Nicole Phelps

Nicole Phelps, Executive Editor

A good fashion week dress from Damir Doma and a good fashion week shoe from Saint Laurent, not necessarily to be worn together. And because I’m not quite ready to admit that the shows are five weeks away, a pair of rehabbed vintage Levi’s from the new denim brand Re/Dun to wear all August long.

Damir Doma dress, $780, Buy it now; Saint Laurent kitten heel, $595, Buy it now; Re/Dun straight skinnies, $232, for more information, visit redun.com.

Margiela

Katharine K. Zarrella, Associate News Editor

I have poor blood circulation and am thus constantly freezing. I can’t wear my vintage 1920s monkey-fur coat all the time (though I’d love to), so I’m planning to rely on this cropped goat-hair jacket from Maison Martin Margiela for some deeply chic everyday insolation.

Maison Martin Margiela goat-hair-trimmed wool-blend cropped jacket, $2,590, Buy it now

Sandro

Amber Kallor, Senior Beauty Editor

Should another Polar Vortex descend upon New York, I’ll be prepared with this oil-print anorak from Sandro. The sleek silhouette makes it easy to slip in and out of backstage, but the down filling provides plenty of warmth while I’m trekking from show to show.

Sandro oil-printed anorak, $775, Buy it now

Adam Lippes

Brittany Adams, Associate Fashion Editor

The bitter Polar Vortex we New Yorkers endured this past winter shook me to the core (I’m still in a state of disbelief walking around in bare legs this summer) and already has me preparing for the cold months ahead. If there’s one trend I’m eager to get my hands on next season, it’s a statement-making shearling. I’m currently pining over Adam Lippes‘ oh-so-cuddly navy belted topper. It’s the stylish equivalent of a bear hug and will be sure to earn me compliments while keeping out the chill.

Adam Lippes belted shearling coat, $3,290, Buy it now

Missoni

Rachel Walgrove, Social Media Editor

It’s time to upgrade the ponchos that are currently in my closet. In chenille, this Missoni knit basically doubles as a wearable blanket. Plus, it’s super-easy to throw on over just about anything.

Missoni chenille poncho, $250, Buy it now

APC

Noah Johnson, Deputy Editor

Louis Wong consistently makes impeccable leather jackets under his line for A.P.C., but this season’s Ferris jacket is the first one that I must own. Colored suede was among my favorite trends from the Spring ’15 men’s shows, but I’m impatient, so waiting until next season is out of the question.

A.P.C. Louis W. Ferris jacket, $1,395, Buy it now

Zana Bayne

Kristin Anderson, Assistant Editor of Special Projects

When fashion week hits, my current shoulder bag may not cut it. This stunning tote from Zana Bayne is big enough for a notebook, tape recorder, flats, and maybe even a pilfered Perrier (or two).

Zana Bayne pentagram handbag, $525, Buy it now

Gucci

Jessica Teves, Site Director

I’m a bit mad for cozy pastels, so this boxy Gucci peacoat is the perfect transitional piece for the cooler months—plus, it livens up my go-to uniform of skinny jeans and a white T-shirt.

Gucci wool double-breasted peacoat, $2,500. For more information, visit gucci.com.

Shrimps

Emily Farra, Editorial Coordinator

I love Shrimps’ irreverent approach to faux fur—there’s nothing stuffy or upper crust about it. This camel, blush, and orange coat features all of my favorite fall colors, plus it won’t break the bank like the real thing would. I’d much rather wear a faux color-blocked version than blend into the pack of women in the same chocolate-brown mink.

Shrimps faux-fur coat, $920, Buy it now

The Row

Erinn Hermsen, Assistant Managing Editor

Despite my Wisconsin roots, I’m a wimp when it comes to the cold. Sweaters are a key part of my daily uniform during the fall and winter months, and The Row‘s cozy cashmere version would be the perfect addition to my rotation.

The Row cashmere sweater, $4,550. For more information, visit saksfifthavenue.com.

Photo: Courtesy Photos 

Fashion, Film, and Music Collide at Pitti’s Opening Andrea Bocelli Concert

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Pitti

Spring ’15 marks the 60th anniversary of the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana, and thus, a very special edition of Pitti Immagine. In addition to guest brand Z Zegna’s forthcoming show, presentations from up-and-comers like Au Jour Le Jour, and a three-museum installation by Francesco Vezzoli, houses with Florentine roots such as Gucci, Ferragamo, Pucci, and Ermanno Scervino are hosting bashes and celebratory exhibitions. Needless to say, this installment of the Italian fashion fair needed to kick off with gusto, and it did just that last night at the Opera di Firenze.

The evening began with I Costumi Della Sartoria Tirelli—a show comprising of costumes from the storied Roman atelier created between the 1950s through the present. I was particularly taken by the lavish scarlet gown and gilded, pearl-embellished crown worn by Monica Bellucci in Terry Gilliam’s 2005 flick, The Brothers Grimm, as well as the ruffled rose suit donned by Donald Sutherland in Federico Fellini’s 1976 film, Casanova. The latter earned its designer Danilo Donati an Oscar in 1977.
Andrea Bocelli and the Cameristi of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino - 011
Following a stroll through Tirelli’s sartorial fantasyland, guests including Pitti CEO Raffaello Napoleone and Suzy Menkes were ushered into the theater, where we were treated to a concert from Andrea Bocelli and Patrizia Orciani. You didn’t need to speak Italian to be stirred by the pair’s performance—in fact, Bocelli’s “Ave Maria” encore moved more than a few attendees to tears.

Walking out of the theater, Menkes commented that, while packing at 2 a.m. for fashion events like Pitti, it’s easy to forget how remarkable they can be. If this opener is any indication, we’re in for quite a week.

Photos: Courtesy Photos