55 posts tagged "Gwyneth Paltrow"
Fendi lent its talents to Wes Anderson’s latest cinematic confection, The Grand Budapest Hotel, costuming both Edward Norton and Tilda Swinton (yep, that’s her in the middle) for their roles in the film alongside Oscar-winning costume designer Milena Canonero. At press time we can only speculate as to what Prada might think of Anderson’s infidelity, but Miuccia can’t be too upset. After all, Anderson and Fendi do have a history—the house created Gwyneth Paltrow’s now iconic mink for The Royal Tenenbaums.
In the end, perhaps fashion isn’t so complicated. It boils down to this: How do I find my signature and how do I develop it over time? Three things that people have said to me on this subject have stuck in my mind:
Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele (stylist): “I get inspiration from Mr. Alaïa, Mr. Lagerfeld. They know, you know? They know. They are not like all these young designers who change every six months. I think this is strange, because when you have talent inside, you never really change.”
Azzedine Alaïa (designer): “It’s inconceivable to me that someone creative can have a new idea every two months. Because if I have one new idea in a year, I thank heaven.”
Riccardo Tisci (designer), speaking approvingly of Hedi Slimane’s tenure at Saint Laurent: “I think Hedi, he wrote his first chapter [i.e., at Dior Homme] in a capital of fashion, and then he took his time off, and then he started from the same page. It’s like when you go to bed and you’re reading a book: You do the little corner, and then the night after, you start from the same page. And the aesthetic that he does really belongs to him. For sure, it is something that doesn’t look like anybody else, and that’s what I like.”
These thoughts were thrown into particularly sharp relief during a busy day of shows in New York yesterday.
What’s more remarkable about Kors: the fact that he’s now worth a billion dollars or the fact that, after three decades in business, he isn’t resting on his laurels? With his last two collections, he has brought his vision of American luxury into razor-sharp focus.
A very different designer from Kors, of course, but in his own way as American as apple pie or Pop Art. Scott has done what you do if you have your own signature: lived through a few seasons where he enjoyed the support of the faithful—and it’s some faithful; he draws the liveliest crowd in town (hey there, Jared Leto)—but didn’t have the full attention of the fashion press. Thanks to his recent appointment as creative director of Moschino, he’s firmly back in the media spotlight. He didn’t waste the opportunity, delivering a collection that riffed confidently on two great American pastimes: sex and sports.
How do you define the signature of a commercial juggernaut, best known for its menswear, which is now making a serious push into womenswear? That’s Jason Wu’s brief at Hugo Boss. He’s started to do it with the collateral: an Inez and Vinoodh-shot campaign; Gwyneth Paltrow as the face of the fragrance. And his debut collection? As Nicole Phelps said in her review, “Wu’s challenge going forward will be to maintain the Boss polish while figuring out ways to loosen up and have a bit more fun.”
I would be remiss not to mention Sui in this recap. She is one of the treasures of the New York calendar. Here’s Tim Blanks on what made her latest collection such a decadent delight.
Krakoff has been giving this subject a great deal of thought lately. After a few collections that felt the anxiety of European influence, he is now focused on creating his version of American luxury. Read Nicole Phelps’ review here.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were part of a pack of young New York designers who broke through in the last decade. When they celebrated their tenth anniversary a couple of years ago, they decided to drill down on their label’s identity, starting with a powerful but understated new logo. Their aesthetic, now reliably their own, is rooted in the contemporary New York art world. It’s no coincidence that yesterday’s show took place at Gavin Brown’s Enterprise, a gallery in the West Village.
IT’S RALPH, THOUGH
As it happens, I’m writing this after seeing Ralph Lauren’s show on this snowy Thursday morning. Lauren showed looks from his Polo line alongside his top-end collection today, and the move invigorated him. These clothes were as clear and direct as a Hemingway sentence. If America didn’t exist, Ralph Lauren would have had to invent it.
It seems that Gwyneth Paltrow’s lifestyle site, Goop—which has, in the past, collaborated with the likes of Warby Parker, Clare Vivier, and Butter London—has a new project in the works with Stella McCartney. While the Telegraph speculates about the details of the partnership—Sportswear? Lingerie? Skincare?—all we know, per the site’s homepage, is that it’s launching in September. As if next month isn’t busy enough, we’ll also be tuning in on the first to get the scoop on Goop.
Judging by the wares spotted on recent red carpets, like the sheer-paneled Antonio Berardi gown Gwyneth Paltrow donned to the Iron Man 3 premiere and the posterior-flashing Givenchy frock Ke$ha sported at last night’s Billboard awards, it would seem there’s a risqué trend afoot. And it’s spilling over onto the Resort ’14 runways, but with a ladylike twist. Chanel, J.W. Anderson’s Versus Versace, and Christian Dior each offered examples of flowery, diaphanous lace. Karl Lagerfeld opted for subtle applications, namely with a bra-revealing blouse shown under a matching blazer, while Raf Simons went full monty-ette, splitting one dress with a mint-colored, neck-to-knee filigree. Anderson offset the neon pink of a slash-away skirt with a hip-high black-lace inset. Needless to say, it left little to the imagination—save what one would possibly wear underneath.