41 posts tagged "Haider Ackermann"
If Paris has an answer to Williamsburg, it would be the area around the Rue Lucien Sampaix in the 10th arrondissement. The neighborhood’s epicenter is the Tuck Shop, the retro-chic vegetarian eatery and gourmet coffee bar opened last year by a trio of hip Australian girls: Anna Rice, Stella Rice, and Rain Laurent. Last night they added “art gallery” to their roster as they feted an impromptu first show by a fellow Aussie, Leo Greenfield, who’s been hanging around Paris since fashion week and working on what he calls “observational illustration.”
“I’m interested in the language of drawing. I look at [my work] as social portraits combined with journalism,” the artist said, surveying walls lined with breezy drawings of Haider Ackermann, Diane Pernet, and Alber Elbaz. Greenfield sketched these from memory after Olivier Saillard and Tilda Swinton’s recent Eternity Dress performance. Pretty good access for someone who showed up in Paris cold a couple of years back and just happened to benefit from the kindness of strangers, like Damir Doma and Joel Arthur Rosenthal.
Asked what impressed him the most about the Spring shows, Greenfield replied, “Comme des Garçons for its graphic impact. And at Haider Ackermann I saw colors I had never seen before, and it was all so fast I couldn’t draw it!” In any case, all indications point to Greenfield closing in on his dream life as an artist in residence: He has just wrapped a weeklong stint in Martin Grant’s atelier. “It was amazing,” the artist said. “He’s all about minimalism without losing luxury.”
New It bags and It shoes regularly enter the fashion orbit, but this season’s unexpected must-have accessory is the humble—or not so humble—belt. Back in September, we clocked Céline’s Thanksgiving-appropriate pilgrim buckle on Anna Dello Russo, Giovanna Battaglia, and Elina Halimi, and noticed plenty of statement-making cinching on the Spring runways, too. Michael Kors, Haider Ackermann, and Tom Ford created a wasp-waist silhouette with classic men’s leather belts, while other designers assumed a more-is-more approach. Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz featured sweet cummerbunds decorated with bedazzled hearts; Peter Dundas sent out medallion-spangled bands worthy of a boxing champion at Emilio Pucci; and Vera Wang was snapped wearing an ultrawide style that swallowed up her entire torso.
Olivier Saillard—author, poet, star fashion curator—tends to prefer a contemplative moment over a grand event. He is also fond of saying that, had he ever studied fashion design, he would have done “just one dress” and then retired his tape measure.
Last night in Paris, he offered both. Eternity Dress, a fifty-one-minute performance starring Tilda Swinton, sponsored by Chloé, and staged at the École des Beaux-Arts this week as part of the city’s fall festival, has been sold out for months. In it, Saillard and Swinton explore the art of dressmaking, starting with lines and measurements (waist: 28 inches, and so forth) working up through flat patterns and the beginnings of a dress, which Swinton took a moment to sew on herself. As the dress took form, Swinton recited a litany of collar styles in French and released a world of emotion in the turn of a sleeve, finally draping herself in rich-hued chiffon and velvet unfurled from bolts lined up on the floor.
Ultimately, The Dress—a black sheath with long sleeves and an open back—was a stand-in for a century of fashion history, from Paul Poiret to Comme des Garçons. One of the show’s high points, as well as its biggest laugh, showed Swinton striking a series of emblematic poses for houses from Poiret to Yohji Yamamoto, by way of Chanel, Dior, Mugler, YSL, and Jean Paul Gaultier. Among a roomful of designers including Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Bouchra Jarrar, Martine Sitbon, and Clare Waight Keller, Haider Ackermann was first on his feet for the ovation. “It’s absolutely a piece of my life,” said Waight Keller. “They’ve taken everyday materials like tape and chalk and elevated them to an art form about designing a dress from scratch. It’s about craft, measuring, and a considered approach. It’s poetry.”
“One of the things about Tilda is that she can do anything,” noted Saillard after the performance. “She’s not a ‘fashion girl,’ so she can be a sculpture, an actress, a woman, a man, she can be 18 or 75 years old. It was like we were in a bubble, and the experience gave us lots of new ideas. Fashion has to be surprising.”
At the small cocktail party held afterward at Lapérouse, Swinton added, “Olivier is a playmate. We work and play together and come up with crackers ideas for some other time—it’s wonderful to be able to play off of someone like that.” Asked whether she realizes that she would be any designer’s dream to work with, Swinton let loose a small bombshell: “Maybe it’s because I know nothing about fashion!”
It was a whirlwind month for this season’s freshman class of models, who ended things on a high note in Paris by making their final first impressions at the shows that really count. We were ecstatic to see many of the fresh faces we’ve had our eye on since early September go on to solidify their spots on our top newcomer list. After making the grade in New York, London, and Milan, Malaika Firth demonstrated the poise of a veteran in the City of Light, where she bookended Valentino and walked sixteen other runways including Anthony Vaccarello, Céline, Giambattista Valli, Miu Miu, and Stella McCartney. Altogether, Firth totaled an impressive fifty-five shows for Spring ’14, and we can’t wait to see her in upcoming ad campaigns and editorial spreads. Several of the other front-runners who’ve been in the spotlight from the start picked up the pace for the final segment. Alexander Wang opener Anna Ewers finished with thirty-seven catwalk appearances and did turns at Balenciaga, Céline, Chanel, and Isabel Marant in Paris, among others. Our personal favorite, Binx Walton (bottom right), took the city by storm—Acne Studios, Alexander McQueen, Céline, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Saint Laurent were just a few of her credits.
Moving along, we simply cannot get enough of Kate Goodling (top left). She’s the total package, with a combination of all-American good looks, editorial appeal, and a killer runway body. Well managed by Ford NY across the Atlantic, Goodling also racked up thirty-seven shows, hitting top-tier catwalks in Paris like Balenciaga, Chanel, Chloé, Dior, Givenchy, Lanvin, and Nina Ricci. We were also dazzled by Lexi Boling, another Ford NY girl, who turned up at Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Céline, and Chloé. French belle Elodia Prieto (top right), who opened and closed Calvin Klein in New York, took advantage of her hometown advantage and finished up at Alexander McQueen, Balmain, Céline, Dior, Givenchy, Haider Ackermann, and Nina Ricci. Finally, check out Svetlana Zakharova’s (bottom left) mesmerizing gaze and bone structure. She was an Alexander Wang exclusive in New York, and blew us away in Paris at Chlo#233;, Balmain, Giambattista Valli, and Isabel Marant. We could go on and on raving about this season’s successful rookies—and there were plenty other notables, including Irina Liss, Ine Neefs, Ophelie Guillermand, Devon Windsor, and Sabrina Loffreda, who made the Spring ’14 runways all the more vibrant.