41 posts tagged "Haider Ackermann"
There was a full moon over Medellín last week when Colombia’s favorite son, Haider Ackermann, came home. He offered a spectacular career overview to inaugurate the trade show Colombiamoda 2013 and mark the twenty-fifth anniversary of Inexmoda, an organization that tirelessly promotes the country’s fashion industry. Ackermann was barely months old when he left the country in the arms of his adoptive parents, but his return was clearly the biggest fashion event in Colombia’s history. I mean, 1,300 people turned out to hear him talk at a panel discussion on fashion entrepreneurship the day after his event. And why on earth not? How many satellite fashion entities around the world wish they could lay claim to that kind of connection, especially when Ackermann gave his gorgeous all on the catwalk? The show itself played like chapters in an autobiography, each group of clothes tellingly matched to a different snatch of music, from the spectral pulse of Ackermann’s most recent Paris presentation to Leonard Cohen’s “A Thousand Kisses Deep” from his epochal Fall 2011 offering to sounds that merged into one long, sensual fugue as the hands of time ticked further back. The designer parachuted in a platoon of familiar faces, among them Saskia de Brauw, Kati Nescher, Alana Zimmer, and Daiane Conterato, for assistance. There was also a baker’s dozen of his nearest and dearest—from his pal Jerry Stafford to his frequent traveling companion Waris Ahluwalia—for moral support. You still need friends when you’re sightseeing in Medellín.
That full moon was a reminder that the city looks best by night. Medellín is smeared across a bowl between mountain ranges, a geographic fact that becomes spectacularly clear when darkness falls and the almost vertical steepness of the settlements climbing up the enclosing walls is illuminated. Otherwise, this visitor’s most vivid impression was of a city racing to remodel itself after years of designation as the world’s most dangerous destination. Just how dangerous was made tragically, poignantly clear as almost everyone we met told stories about their own losses. It was much worse than what the journalists, who dared to descend into the hell that Pablo Escobar and his cartel cohorts created, ever detailed.
From the runway to the street to the closets of sports stars, the color red has found its way onto the current sartorial playlist, especially—and excitingly—across men’s suiting.
“Red has great energy and signifies a decadence other colors can’t,” Barneys New York’s general merchandise manager and executive vice president Tom Kalenderian told Style.com. “Remember Diana Vreeland’s famous red chinoiserie walls—didn’t she once say, ‘I want this place to look like a garden, but a garden in hell?’” After hearing Vreeland’s take on the hue, who wouldn’t want to wrap himself up in Haider Ackermann‘s ruby-toned sleeveless Spring ’14 waistcoat, Roberto Cavalli‘s oxblood shawl-collared stunner, or Thom Browne‘s cherry-red generalissimo uniforms?
Just off the runway, our intrepid Tommy Ton lensed red peaked-lapel blazers from Firenze to Paris. One fellow stood out in particular, pairing his vermilion jacket with a medium-grade chambray shirt-and-tie combo underneath. And finally, at last week’s ESPY Awards, a number of athletes hot-stepped it down the red carpet in matching wares: Chicago Bears’ wide receiver Brandon Marshall in a Hugh Hefner-esque burgundy smoking jacket; San Francisco 49ers’ quarterback Colin Kaepernick in a simple scarlet sport jacket; and the King himself, the NBA’s LeBron James, in a muted carmine tux whipped up by L.A.-based tailor Waraire Boswell. As Kalenderian keenly noted, “Making a statement is the new normal.”
The menswear schedule is heating up, ladies and gents! (Well, mainly gents.) Today, WWD reported that Haider Ackermann, who quite successfully tried his hand at menswear back in 2010 (left), when he showed a collection at Pitti W (it was picked up by Barneys), is joining the Paris men’s schedule. For his second foray into menswear, which will debut on June 26, Ackermann will be presenting what he’s dubbed a “men’s wardrobe.” The menswear reveal comes on the heels of last week’s announcement that Belgian entrepreneur Anne Capelle had split the Haider Ackermann and Ann Demeulemeester labels, both of which had been linked under the same parent company. She told WWD that Ackermann’s label, which he launched in 2001, had “fully matured over the years, becoming a fully stable and independent business on its own.” Indeed, Ackermann has the potential to be an exciting addition to the men’s market. And we bet that a few of his female devotees (ahem, Tilda Swinton) will be fans of the boys’ clothes, too.
The 66th Annual Cannes Film Festival wrapped on Sunday—and by all counts, it was a relatively mellow one (save the Chopard diamond heist—nothing like a little high-wattage-glamour drama). Sartorially, the requisite pageantry was all there—big dresses, big hair, big lips—but an often laid-back, sometimes femme fatale trend had its moment on the Riviera red carpet: pants.
Tilda Swinton (above, left) challenged conventional gala dressing with a gold-sequined pajama set by her pal Haider Ackermann (her twisting, teased platinum coif deserves an honorable mention, too). The silhouette was hyper-casual; the overall look, however, was exquisitely luxe—Swinton’s a bit of a miracle worker when it comes to mixing things up for the flashbulbs. Chinese pop singer and actress Li Yuchun (above, right) sported trousers twice for her turns in the spotlight—one look, tapered Givenchy Haute Couture britches under a fringed top, and the other, blood-red Gareth Pugh bell-bottoms that matched the carpet below. It was a chicly chameleonic moment. Hungarian model Barbara Palvin (above, center) looked right at home in a razor-sharp Alexandre Vauthier suit, her cropped drainpipes grazing a pair of killer, gold-strapped heels. And finally, model-cum-actress Ziyi Zhang rocked an enviably informal Dior Haute Couture ensemble comprising simple black slacks, a strapless bustier top, and zebra-motif Louboutins.
Tucked away in the ninth arrondissement, the family-run Pallas atelier, which is known for its hand-finished Petite Couture tailoring, has been a secret weapon for major fashion houses, from Balenciaga to Céline to Thierry Mugler, since it was founded in 1961. Fifty-two years later, Pallas is emerging from behind the scenes with a new capsule collection of seven made-to-order tuxedos done in collaboration with Hannelore Knuts. An iconic Belgian model, Knuts is best known for her androgynous appeal (she recently played David Bowie in the indie film DAVE), as well as setting a record for covering—count ’em—three consecutive issues of Vogue Italia, back in 2001. “As someone who’s always been typecast as a tomboy, I felt somehow related to the aesthetic of the Le Smoking,” Knuts told Style.com.
Despite never having designed a suit before (she has, however, done a handbag with Delvaux and a bike for Marniek Kint), Knuts had plenty of ideas for modernizing the classic tuxedo based on her years on the job. “I was really close with Haider Ackermann and got to work closely with Azzedine Alaïa, who regularly did fittings on me and always welcomed me in his studio,” she said. “I’ve seen the process. I’ve witnessed and experienced it. And now I’m actually doing it for the first time, but it didn’t feel unnatural. I appreciate that details, like adjusting the hemline a few centimeters or changing the button finishing, can make or break the entire look.” Knuts herself wasn’t hunched over a table with a measuring tape around her neck and pins in her mouth, but she did suggest several updated silhouettes, such as a hoodie jacket and a seventies-inspired jumpsuit. She also styled and photographed herself for the lookbook. The images, which Knuts shot in Paris’ Le Petit Trianon Theatre, debut above. “I appreciate Pallas’ old-school approach to craft and am excited to help them creatively,” offered Knuts. “Experiences like this make modeling richer and more fulfilling.”