42 posts tagged "Haider Ackermann"
Tucked away in the ninth arrondissement, the family-run Pallas atelier, which is known for its hand-finished Petite Couture tailoring, has been a secret weapon for major fashion houses, from Balenciaga to Céline to Thierry Mugler, since it was founded in 1961. Fifty-two years later, Pallas is emerging from behind the scenes with a new capsule collection of seven made-to-order tuxedos done in collaboration with Hannelore Knuts. An iconic Belgian model, Knuts is best known for her androgynous appeal (she recently played David Bowie in the indie film DAVE), as well as setting a record for covering—count ’em—three consecutive issues of Vogue Italia, back in 2001. “As someone who’s always been typecast as a tomboy, I felt somehow related to the aesthetic of the Le Smoking,” Knuts told Style.com.
Despite never having designed a suit before (she has, however, done a handbag with Delvaux and a bike for Marniek Kint), Knuts had plenty of ideas for modernizing the classic tuxedo based on her years on the job. “I was really close with Haider Ackermann and got to work closely with Azzedine Alaïa, who regularly did fittings on me and always welcomed me in his studio,” she said. “I’ve seen the process. I’ve witnessed and experienced it. And now I’m actually doing it for the first time, but it didn’t feel unnatural. I appreciate that details, like adjusting the hemline a few centimeters or changing the button finishing, can make or break the entire look.” Knuts herself wasn’t hunched over a table with a measuring tape around her neck and pins in her mouth, but she did suggest several updated silhouettes, such as a hoodie jacket and a seventies-inspired jumpsuit. She also styled and photographed herself for the lookbook. The images, which Knuts shot in Paris’ Le Petit Trianon Theatre, debut above. “I appreciate Pallas’ old-school approach to craft and am excited to help them creatively,” offered Knuts. “Experiences like this make modeling richer and more fulfilling.”
With gala season kicking off in earnest this week, we’ve been contemplating alternatives to predictable strapless cocktail frocks and princess gowns. Don’t get us wrong: We’ve got nothing against a nice dress, but the elegantly tailored evening trousers we saw in the Fall collections look so much more modern. Alexander Wang featured sharp slacks on his New York runway and at his Balenciaga debut, and we noticed similar styles at Narciso Rodriguez and The Row. Draped camisole and bustier tops accompanied by long trains that float behind slim pants have been in the air since Haider Ackermann’s Spring ’11 show. Raf Simons nailed that look at his first Haute Couture presentation for Christian Dior last July, and we’ve witnessed its popularity rise with designers like Jason Wu, Mary Katrantzou, Juan Carlos Obando, and Vera Wang in the months since.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of our favorite evening pants.
Not to knock statement dressing, but the superabundance of flashy, hot-hued metallics we’ve seen of late has left us craving a dose of simplicity. Why not take a break from the frenzy of brights with a neutral twist? Shimmer softly in silver, gunmetal, and gold with our picks from Haider Ackermann, Stella McCartney, Reed Krakoff, and more, below.
1. Haider Ackermann coat, $1,967, available at www.net-a-porter.com
2. Kenzo shirt, $377, available at www.matchesfashion.com
3. Stella McCartney pants, $482, available at www.matchesfashion.com
4. Reed Krakoff oxfords, $698, available at www.mytheresa.com
5. Givenchy earring, $335, available at www.luisaviaroma.com
6. Karen Walker sunglasses, $249, available at www.farfetch.com
7. Alexander Wang bag, $801, available at www.matchesfashion.com
Happy Spring? Well, not quite. Today is the official equinox, but judging by the recent chill, not to mention the impromptu snowstorms (more flurries on the way tomorrow!), it might be a little early to break out the shorts and sundresses. Instead, we suggest ringing in the season with some of Spring ’13′s suede jackets, full-length furs (thank you, Miu Miu), and leather everything. When we saw them on the runways last September, the cozy wares from Haider Ackermann, Sacai, and Salvatore Ferragamo may have seemed nonsensical, but given the frigid weather, they’ve proven more than seasonable.
Ever since Fendi debuted its multicolored fur Mohawks in Milan, the punked-up coifs have been fanning out all over the Fall runways. But they’re not appearing as you might expect; rather, designers have appropriated the motif and completely turned it on its head. For starters, Fendi’s pastel quiffs got so much attention that one might have missed Lagerfeld’s punchy Mohawked boots and bags. Haider Ackermann put his own spin on the look, sending his models out with white matted hair fashioned into “death hawks” (a style favored by goths). Not surprisingly, the same rebellious tresses popped up in black at Vivienne Westwood, but the Dame of Punk placed her death dos on black platform booties rather than her catwalkers’ noggins. Jean Paul Gaultier experimented with aubergine and bubblegum-highlighted faux-hawk-mullet hybrids at his Fall show, and over at Loewe, Stuart Vevers garnished the heels of his single-soled sandals with exaggerated, razor-sharp black or blonde fringe. Loewe’s shoes were a particularly “uptown” take on the antiestablishment-rooted style (what would the punks of the seventies have said about that?) and reminded us of YSL’s much-snapped suede Mohawk pumps from Fall 2010. Now, don’t shave and dye your hair just yet (or, actually, maybe do), but we’d have to say that the Mohawk, in its many incarnations, is one of Fall’s most prominent (and playful) punk trends so far.