5 posts tagged "Hakaan Yildirim"
Everyone knows how it goes for the emerging designer: a graduate collection, a taste of success, and, if you’re lucky, a place in a showcase at fashion week. But what comes next? That was the question IMG Fashion set out to answer, with the help of shipping giant DHL, in the form of DHL Exported, a program set up to help some more-established designers. DHL will underwrite the cost of bringing the collections of four designers to a foreign market for two consecutive seasons, meaning hometown heroes can spread their wings and fly further afield. The winning designers will stage their shows as part of Spring 2015 and Fall 2015 fashion weeks, beginning this September in New York.
Announcing the winners at London’s Sanderson Hotel on Tuesday became a little like a game of fashion musical chairs: Local talent Henry Holland will be transplanted to Tokyo, while Nicholas K heads to Milan. Hakaan Yildirim, who shows in Paris, will launch H by Hakaan in London, and Italian rising star Francesca Liberatore is off to New York. Each city’s award was determined by a panel of regional experts including Carla Sozzani in Milan, Nicole Miller in New York, and IMG’s vice president and global creative director, Jarrad Clark.
International expansion isn’t financially available to many smaller brands, so this kind of support could make the fashion world a much more accessible place. “Two seasons of support was paramount to us,” Clark explained. “It’s the opportunity for designers to show their brand in a different market, but then to make contacts and build on that relationship.” DHL will be supporting these designers through logistics, shipping, and staging the shows themselves. “Everybody in fashion uses DHL. It’s about so much more than just the big yellow box.”
London-based designer Hakaan Yildirim, who was slated to show his Spring 2013 collection tomorrow in Paris, has been forced to call off his show because the clothes were lost by the courier company. The Turkish-born up-and-comer, who won the ANDAM Award in 2010 and debuted his Hakaan line at London fashion week the same year (with the likes of Kate Moss, Emmanuelle Alt, and Carine Roitfeld all in the front row), is reportedly remaking the show pieces for editors and buyers to view in the showroom. The clothes will be available for editorial requests as usual.
At the still-young Istanbul fashion week, which just completed its third season, the signs of an international fashion week seemed to be in place. Old shows (Chanel’s Spring ’10 hayride, for one) were playing on the hotel television. From the abbreviated crews of American, Italian, French, and British editors and retailers, you could easily pick out Anna Piaggi, Patricia Field, Susie Bubble, Satine’s Jeannie Lee, and Olivier Zahm. Even the absent Bryanboy wistfully tweeted that he’d like to be in the mix.
The runway offered up a mixed bag. There were the cartoony club clothes of Gunseli Turkay and the crafty futuristic eveningwear of Arzu Kaprol, an established designer with boutiques across the country. Central Saint Martins grad and Londoner Bora Aksu created a special collection just for the week, a parade of pretty pieces in nudes and pales with lingerie details inspired by a 100-year-old Istanbul shop called Butterfly Corset. But for his Spring ’11 collection, you’ll have to head to London, where he’ll show alongside countryman Hakaan Yildirim, who nabbed this year’s ANDAM prize.
“The inspiration is very literal, but it’s a first step,” said Los Angeles boutique owner Des Kohan. “The government is really positive, and there’s great buzz.” Kohan saw the pervading influence of Turkish Cypriot Hussein Chalayan, whose retrospective Hussein Chalayan: 1994-2010 is showing at Istanbul’s Museum of Modern Art. (It runs through October 24.) Chalayan, though, shows in Paris, as does another major Turkish export, Dice Kayek, the subject of a concurrent show at the museum called Istanbul/Contrast. And at a dinner for the latter label’s designer Ece Ege on the rooftop of the Marmara Pera hotel, Zahm (pictured with Ege, above) admitted the city inspired him more than the shows. “It’s the first time I’m here professionally. Istanbul has great energy; it’s like New York,” he said, before snapping pictures of the spectacular view. Truthfully, the week seemed to be more about discovering that than anything else.
Turkish designer Hakaan Yildirim (pictured) is the newest winner of ANDAM’s €220,000 prize. Reached for comment in Istanbul, Yildrim and his friend and collaborator, Mert Alas, responded simply: “This is so magical. We are honored.” Hakaan beat out a strong group, including Mark Fast; former Mugler designer Alexandre Vauthier; Francesco Scognamiglio; former Balenciaga and Christian Lacroix designer Bouchra Jarrar; and Calla Haynes, who worked with Olivier Theyskens for five years at Rochas and Nina Ricci.
It was only last February, before his first London show, that English fashion scribes were wondering in print: “Who is Hakaan?” Besides reporting that he’d dressed Rose Byrne in one of his sculptured, feathered minidresses for the third-season premiere of Damages, they didn’t find much else to report. But his first show was a game-changer. It was star-studded on the runway (Lara Stone, Natalia Vodianova, Mariacarla Boscono, Natasha Poly, and Anja Rubik all walked) and in the front row (Carine Roitfeld made a special trip to London on the advice of Alas). The collection was glamorous and ultra-fitted, indulging in Yildirim’s passion for leather and ostrich feathers and drawing comparisons to Riccardo Tisci’s work for Givenchy.
Yildirim’s benefactors are as starry as his front row: The jury this year consisted of Roitfeld, LVMH’s Delphine Arnault, Alber Elbaz, Musée de la Mode curator Pamela Golbin, Colette’s Sarah Lerfel, Dazed & Confused‘s Jefferson Hack, and Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon. And with the cash prize (up ⁈60,000 from last year’s trophy) come stipulations not only to show in Paris, but to open a French company, too. “We’ve felt the pressure to help France,” explains ANDAM founder Nathalie Dufour about the change. “This year’s six nominees included three French brands, but we want to be able to award talent wherever we find it, so we thought having the winner establish themselves by opening a French company was a logical step.”