3 posts tagged "Hannah Martin"
If you’ve always hankered for a piece of fine jewelry designed by embattled rocker and erstwhile Kate Moss beau Pete Doherty, you’re in luck. The Babyshambles front man stopped by Joseph in London last night to unveil Albion Trinketry, the 15-piece range of unisex jewelry he created with Hannah Martin, the Cartier-trained jeweler who designs her own namesake collection and has collaborated in the past with fellow English youngbloods Hannah Marshall and Carolyn Massey. (Earlier this year, Doherty played the opening party of Joseph’s refurbished Avenue Montaigne store.) The collection includes pendants, necklaces, bracelets, and cuff links, many of them playing on cross and Art Deco-ish starburst motifs. “We wanted to offer jewelry that may have not been seen before by our customer. How often does one go into a jewelry store? Not often,” opined Joseph Group CEO Sara Ferrero. “We are opening up the opportunity to buy jewelry in a different way—fine jewelry being shown in a relaxed [and] non-intimidating environment.” That was yesterday. Doherty spent today in an environment a shade less relaxed: the courts, where, English tabs gleefully reported, he is due to face another round of charges.
If you want to distill the difference between the London fashion scene and the New York fashion scene down to a single particular, this isn’t a bad one: Whereas your typical New York It girl tends to show up to a crowded after-party in something sleek and recently off-the-runway, in London, she wears a vintage bathing suit, fishnets, and a banana on her head. That, at any rate, was the look Noisettes front woman Shingai Shoniwa was working at the Vivienne Westwood party at the St Martins Lane Hotel last night. “Oy, my hair wasn’t working tonight so I put the hat on,” she explained.
And why not? The guy across the room is wearing rhinestone-crusted football pads, and the one elbowing his way to a drink at the bar is kitted out like a goth Robin Hood, after all. Taken individually, some of these outfits border on the ridiculous. Taken together, they put the flights of fancy by London designers into a useful context. A collection inspired by Christmas trees? Why not, says Meadham Kirchhoff. Models wearing crowns made out of pipe cleaners and cake decoration? Why not, says Nasir Mazhar, the Gaga-approved milliner who made the crowns for the label’s Fall ’10 show. A jewelry collection comprising cast vampire bat skulls, scorpions, and giant squid mandibles? Why not, says Dominic Jones.
Jones presented his new collection—his second—on Saturday night at a cocktail party at the Sanctum Soho Hotel. Like his debut, the collection taps a vein of the macabre. Jones explained that he was thinking of predators this time around, and that he’d sourced the skeletons for his metal-cast baubles from college research laboratories, taxidermists, and, in the case of that giant squid, from a fisherman in Japan who caught the thing and posted its jaw to Jones via express mail. “I’m always interested in taking something frightening and making it beautiful,” he noted. “Sort of like, agghhh becomes aahhhh…”
Hannah Martin, another of England’s up-and-coming jewelry designers, works the opposite way. The Cartier-trained Martin makes fine jewelry of incredible refinement, but with an edge of danger; for her second collaboration with designer Hannah Marshall, Martin honed that edge to switchblade sharpness. (That’s her ring, pictured, with Marshall’s clothing.) “This season, it was lots of slashes and slicing, and early images of Grace Jones,” Martin says of the inspirations for her catwalk costume jewels. As for their collaboration, call it kismet—or call it similar names and a publicist in common. The poor guy was constantly fielding requests for Hannah Martin dresses and Hannah Marshall rings. After that, says Martin, “we figured we might as well start working together.” Why not?
What is modern gentry? The short answer to that question is: The Modern Gentry is a pop-up shop that opened on Monday in London, at one end of Savile Row. Lodger, maker of bespoke footwear, tailors E. Tautz, and jewelry designer Hannah Martin have come together to open a three-story boutique retailing their ultra-high-end menswear goods. This Modern Gentry won’t last—the shop is only open for a week. But the stuff being sold there is meant to endure, and that’s a principle that Martin, one of England’s most buzzed-about jewelers, has been exploring in a variety of ways as she seeks to define “modern gentry” for herself. “I do ask myself, ‘What does luxury mean now?’ ” explains Martin, who launched her fine-jewelry line four years ago. “And what I keep coming back to is this idea of timelessness. I don’t think something can be ‘luxury’ if you’re going to get bored of it in a month. And certainly not if it’s going to fall apart right way.” Martin’s musing in this vein gave rise not only to the Modern Gentry pop-up but to the Modern Gentry video series, as well. She conceived the series, which launches on SHOWstudio on Friday and, alongside her Modern Gentry pop-up partners, has contributed a short film, The Man Who Knows Everything. Here, Martin talks to Style.com about French boys, Russian gangsters, and Madonna.
You’ve had some serious success with your line right out of the gate—Dover Street Market was your first stockist, and you’ve sold to Angelina Jolie and Madonna. Did you know from the start that you were on to something?
For me, of course, it feels like it’s been much more of a process. I mean, the press in the U.K. got on board right away, and that created momentum. But it’s sort of like, Dover Street Market was a milestone, and starting to work with these amazing private clients was a milestone, and the next milestone will be launching in the States, which is due to happen quite soon. I suppose it’s all happened rather fast, but to me it feels like I’m putting one foot in front of the other.