5 posts tagged "Hardy Amies"
Smythson’s Panama diary has some seriously impressive cred. Launched in 1908, it’s been used by everyone from Sigmund Freud and Katharine Hepburn to Jonathan Saunders and Dita Von Teese. For Spring ’14, Smythson is releasing a full-on Panama collection, comprising diaries, address books, manuscript books, and beyond. In celebration of the new range, the brand has called in young British artist Quentin Jones to create a series of pretty wild works. The set of ten pieces will feature the aforementioned influencers, as well as Hardy Amies, Waris Ahluwalia, Erdem Moralioglu, Bryan Ferry, Kylie Minogue, and Laura Bailey. The works—done in Jones’ signature, surreal style of mixed media—will explore the subjects’ relationships with their Panamas. An exhibition of the art, as well as the new Panama line, will be unveiled during a special event at Smythson’s New Bond Street store today, and the show will be open to the public from Monday. In the meantime, get your Smythson x Jones fix with a gif teasing the star-studded artworks, which debuts exclusively here.
London’s fashion boom has been a particular boon for menswear, and as of last June, the city inaugurated its own menswear weekend to recognize it. I was glad to be in the early guard of editors who made the trip, alongside Style.com’s Tim Blanks, who serves on the Menswear Committee of the event, and came away impressed with the energy and individualism of the city’s designers. Even the youngest—the trio of Agi & Sam, Shaun Samson, and Astrid Andersen, who showed collectively as part of the MAN show—had more courage of their convictions than many far more seasoned labels in New York or elsewhere. And while everyone agreed that the start was an auspicious one, the unofficial consensus among the attendees I spoke to was that the week could use a few tentpoles from the big-time ranks to solidify its position and round out its offerings. The provisional schedule, announced today by the BFC, suggests it is getting just that. London is still extremely supportive of its emerging set—eBay and the mayor of London are teaming up for a Fashion Forward sponsorship, which will be extended as in seasons past to Christopher Shannon, E.Tautz, and J.W. Anderson, and for the first time, to the promising Lou Dalton—but several more established houses are planning to show as well. Alexander McQueen (a look from the Spring ’13 collection is at left) and Tom Ford, both of whom previously presented by appointment in Milan, will show in London; Savile Row’s own Hardy Amies, which showed in Paris, joins as well. More to follow? To be seen. In the meantime, to catch up on London’s Spring 2013 show coverage on Style.com, click here.
“Style is knowing who you are/p>
There was something peculiarly British and personal about much that was on offer this season. Our particular genre of sportswear was mined mercilessly. It is something that many of the young designers showing here were weaned on from school age, and it was always much more about style in its appropriation rather than fashion. Christopher Shannon, Martine Rose, Matthew Miller, and New Power Studio were all treading on this territory. Yet at its best, this initial inspiration took flight into something much less nostalgic and into something much more personal and fashion focused—these are fashion shows and collections, after all—spliced together in a hybridized way to become much more theatrical.
This was true of the best elements in Christopher Shannon’s collection (above), which lifted them away from just going through the sportswear motions of “scally drag.” His tasseled pieces had that decorative and tribal element that was also emerging in many of the shows (he explained he had been looking at the African photography of Pieter Hugo), and his “comb crowns” reinforced this peculiar point. Continue Reading “Jo-Ann Furniss On London’s Man Day” »
London, like most of the great global cities, is one divided. The same is true of its fashion, especially its menswear. On the one hand there is the Dickensian decrepitude of the East End, the home to much of the young design talent, who use it as a playground for experimentation. The recently graduated Saint Martin’s and Royal College students rule that particular roost. Up West is seemingly a different story. This is the site of Savile Row, Jermyn Street and Saint James’, with all their sonorous, distinctly English, gentlemanly connotations and the tailoring traditions that are the finest in the world.
On London Fashion Week’s annual MAN Day, devoted exclusively to menswear shows, the surface contrast between East and West is never starker, and this season it was starkest of all. But what emerged in the best fashion was at times a strange shared ethos of extremes. Often, the more extreme the approach, the better.
Topman Design (top left) offered its most accomplished collection to date, with very little high street about it. Inspired by Brassaï’s Paris street photography and the style of gypsy and traveler men, the heavy Harris tweed suiting, paisley silks and a section of naval-braided evening wear harked back to a different era. “Romany princes” creative consultant Alister Mackie called his well-cast boys. “There was an idea of thirties and fifties clothing being worn in the eighties, passed down through successive generations and classes,” he said.”It was a statement of elegance, that made the grimy feel glamorous.” Continue Reading “The Wilder, The Better At London Menswear’s MAN Day” »
On the last day of London fashion week, Patrick Grant of Savile Row’s Norton & Sons presented E. Tautz, the menswear line that he has rescued from the mists of history, in a salon of the recently renovated Hardy Amies building. The small audience included Prince and Princess Michael of Kent and their son Freddie Windsor, who is the new face of Amies’ also-revived men’s range, examples of which were being presented in another salon downstairs. Grant’s spiel for Tautz offered an explanation of cloth and cut that was the purest entertainment: this fabric specially woven by one man in Harris, spiritual home of tweed; that kilt hand-sewn by “a very talented young lady called Nettie”; the irresistible socks and mittens hand-knit by a posse of Welsh women with too much time on their hands. The smartest designers are looking for stories that make their clothes come alive. Grant has already mastered that skill. And, as one of life’s natural aristocrats, he made a striking contrast with the rather less prepossessing to-the-manor-born folks in the front row. If the royal family had Patrick Grant swimming in their gene pool, the world’s anti-monarchists would be thinking twice.