August 23 2014

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9 posts tagged "Haute Couture"

Brace Yourself for Spring


Arm gear from Alexander McQueen, Maison Martin Margiela, and Chanel

We first saw signs up geared-up girls during the Spring ready-to-wear collections, when Alexander McQueen‘s Sarah Burton presented warrior women donning arm-length gilded cuffs. This embrace of aggressive arm accessories re-emerged at the Spring Couture shows, where Chanel and Maison Martin Margiela proposed accouterments that exuded a “don’t mess with me” attitude. Karl’s girls complemented their trainers (and fanny packs) with elbow- (and knee-) pads at Chanel. And Margiela toughened up a pair of striped trousers with beaded temporary-tattoo sleeves. It may be abrasive (and potentially uncomfortable), but we’re welcoming this rebellious Couture trend with open arms.

Fur All Seasons


Bouchra Jarrar, Liza Minnelli, Atelier Versace

Maybe designers just have Polar Vortex on the brain, but judging by the couture catwalks, it seems that furs are here to stay even for warm weather. For all intents and purposes, the counterintuitive trend was started (as so many are) by Miuccia Prada when she showed colorful fur coats and stoles on both Miu Miu‘s and Prada‘s Spring ’13 catwalks. The furry fad continued for Spring ’14, when Michael Kors, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Tom Ford, and, once again, Mrs. Prada swathed their models in fuzzy tops, scarves, and jackets.

Fast-forward to Spring ’14 Couture, where Donatella Versace proposed a cotton-candy-hued fur stole, as well as a lush violet coat, on her catwalk. Bouchra Jarrar also jumped on board, presenting models wrapped in haircalf and fur vests. “Oh, anything goes on the couture runways,” they’ll say. But hear this: Scorching furs are becoming prime red-carpet fodder, too. Just ask Liza Minnelli. Despite the fact that it was 84 degrees in L.A. on Saturday, the enduring style icon arrived at the SAG Awards in a snuggly fur-trimmed cape. Anyway, we thought we’d start spreading the news…

Photos: Indigitalimages/Patrick McMullan Company

Charlie Le Mindu: From Coiffure to Couture


Is the world of Haute Couture ready for London-based bad boy Charlie Le Mindu? We’re about to find out. The French hairstylist-cum-designer (who’s probably best known for Lady Gaga’s electric dye jobs and sculptural coifs) will show his first couture collection during Paris’ upcoming Haute Couture week. But don’t expect mousseline or brocade to make appearances in Le Mindu’s Spring ’13. Since he began designing clothes in 2009, the designer has favored a more unconventional material, one that’s near and dear to his heart—human hair. Le Mindu has used the stuff to create everything from ball gowns to circle hats (although, it should be noted, he’s also crafted looks out of synthetic nails). “It takes me up to five hundred hours to finish each piece. I put so much time and energy into my designs, so it made sense to show during Haute Couture,” says Le Mindu, who previously debuted his collections via theatric Paris presentations during ready-to-wear.

Named Metal Queen (for his muse Lee Aaron’s eighties heavy-metal hit) the predominantly black-and-white collection will fuse human hair and Japanese leather (which Le Mindu says “feels like skin.”). “The hair just looks like textured leather,” says the designer, who has shared some exclusive sketches of his upcoming collection with “It’s very organic, but also kind of fetishistic.”

In the name of fun—another Le Mindu signature—the designer has enlisted performers from Crazy Horse, as well as bearded New York personality Andre J, to model in his presentation, which will be held at RA on January 21. Haute Couture clichés (think strong poses and jutting hips) were also a focal point of the collection, and the presentation will have lots of them. “We’re going to do things in a really exaggerated, over-the-top way so that people can laugh about it. I take fashion very seriously. But when you’re at a show, you just want people to react and enjoy it.”

A Respite for Givenchy And Its Four-Legged Friends


Givenchy announced today that it won’t show its Spring 2013 Couture collection during the next round of Couture shows in January. The brand’s plate is presumably full this year, with Riccardo Tisci cohosting the punk-themed Met Gala in May, but the label tells WWD that it “continues to invest in its couture atelier and does not rule out couture presentations in the future.” In the meantime, Paris’ dog models will enjoy an extended Christmas vacation with no need to rush back to work.

Photo: Courtesy of Givenchy

On Our Radar: Seafarer


Established in Brooklyn in 1900, Seafarer was the U.S. Navy’s leading supplier of bell-bottom denim work pants for over 80 years. But in the sixties and seventies, the likes of Brigitte Bardot, Jane Birkin, and Farrah Fawcett began to don their wide-legged, high-waisted jeans, as did other trendsetters who snatched up Seafarers at secondhand markets. Come January 22, you won’t have to scour vintage stores to find your pair—for Spring 2013, Seafarer is releasing a revamped fashion range, set to launch at Colette during the haute couture shows. Illustrator and blogger Garance Doré has created a trio of kitsch seventies films to help celebrate the revival, the first of which debuts here on (above). We’re not sure how well the Italian-made jeans, particularly the limited-edition floral-print pairs by Ken Scott, would be received by today’s Navy. But we’re betting the fashion set will be eager to get their sea legs.