7 posts tagged "Haute Couture"
Is the world of Haute Couture ready for London-based bad boy Charlie Le Mindu? We’re about to find out. The French hairstylist-cum-designer (who’s probably best known for Lady Gaga’s electric dye jobs and sculptural coifs) will show his first couture collection during Paris’ upcoming Haute Couture week. But don’t expect mousseline or brocade to make appearances in Le Mindu’s Spring ’13. Since he began designing clothes in 2009, the designer has favored a more unconventional material, one that’s near and dear to his heart—human hair. Le Mindu has used the stuff to create everything from ball gowns to circle hats (although, it should be noted, he’s also crafted looks out of synthetic nails). “It takes me up to five hundred hours to finish each piece. I put so much time and energy into my designs, so it made sense to show during Haute Couture,” says Le Mindu, who previously debuted his collections via theatric Paris presentations during ready-to-wear.
Named Metal Queen (for his muse Lee Aaron’s eighties heavy-metal hit) the predominantly black-and-white collection will fuse human hair and Japanese leather (which Le Mindu says “feels like skin.”). “The hair just looks like textured leather,” says the designer, who has shared some exclusive sketches of his upcoming collection with Style.com. “It’s very organic, but also kind of fetishistic.”
In the name of fun—another Le Mindu signature—the designer has enlisted performers from Crazy Horse, as well as bearded New York personality Andre J, to model in his presentation, which will be held at RA on January 21. Haute Couture clichés (think strong poses and jutting hips) were also a focal point of the collection, and the presentation will have lots of them. “We’re going to do things in a really exaggerated, over-the-top way so that people can laugh about it. I take fashion very seriously. But when you’re at a show, you just want people to react and enjoy it.”
Givenchy announced today that it won’t show its Spring 2013 Couture collection during the next round of Couture shows in January. The brand’s plate is presumably full this year, with Riccardo Tisci cohosting the punk-themed Met Gala in May, but the label tells WWD that it “continues to invest in its couture atelier and does not rule out couture presentations in the future.” In the meantime, Paris’ dog models will enjoy an extended Christmas vacation with no need to rush back to work.
Established in Brooklyn in 1900, Seafarer was the U.S. Navy’s leading supplier of bell-bottom denim work pants for over 80 years. But in the sixties and seventies, the likes of Brigitte Bardot, Jane Birkin, and Farrah Fawcett began to don their wide-legged, high-waisted jeans, as did other trendsetters who snatched up Seafarers at secondhand markets. Come January 22, you won’t have to scour vintage stores to find your pair—for Spring 2013, Seafarer is releasing a revamped fashion range, set to launch at Colette during the haute couture shows. Illustrator and blogger Garance Doré has created a trio of kitsch seventies films to help celebrate the revival, the first of which debuts here on Style.com (above). We’re not sure how well the Italian-made jeans, particularly the limited-edition floral-print pairs by Ken Scott, would be received by today’s Navy. But we’re betting the fashion set will be eager to get their sea legs.
LVMH Gets Its Own Croc Tannery, The Demands Of The “New Breed” Haute Couture Clientele, Kris Van Assche’s Foray Into Film, And More…
LVMH has finalized plans to jointly own a crocodile tannery. That means high-quality crocodile skins for the croc coats that its various luxury brands, like Fendi and Celine, showed on the Spring runways. [WWD]
Ateliers are learning to cater to a “new breed of haute couture clients” from wealthy countries in the Gulf. One of their top demands: not having the same dress as their peers. That’s an understandable requirement when you are paying hundreds of thousands of dollars per dress. [Telegraph]
Supermodel Naomi Campbell and her boyfriend, Vladislav Doronin, will be honored for their charity work on October 17 at Denise Rich’s Angel Ball this year. The Cipriani Wall Street affair will also include performances by Patti LaBelle and DJ Cassidy. [Page Six]
Aside from doing Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche also designs his own men’s line. To showcase the Spring ’12 collection for the line, he teamed up with director Joost Vandebrug on his first fashion film. [Hint]
The haute couture shows start on Monday, and in addition to the schedule’s usual suspects—Lagerfeld, Gaultier, Galliano, et al.—newcomer Maxime Simoëns is throwing his (presumably) hand-beaded hat into the ring. At 26, Simoëns is the first designer to join the official Couture calendar without ever having staged a runway show—unless you count his prize-winning 2009 debut at the annual Festival International de Mode et de Photographie in Hyères, France. Kris Van Assche was on the festival’s fashion jury that year, as were Jefferson Hack and Zoe Cassavetes. Obviously the kid keeps good company. Further proof? He’s currently operating out of Christian Lacroix’s old atelier.
On the eve of his Couture debut, Style.com talked to Simoëns about abandoning his first love for fashion, landing the Gossip girls, and his plans for re-shaping couture.
Your first interest was film. Why did you abandon it for fashion?
Starting from the age of five or six I was totally taken by James Dean, Charlie Chaplin, and Marilyn Monroe. Then I got to film school and found it too technical and scientific—all physics, math, chemistry. I wanted to express myself more concretely; I was thinking less about science and more about the narration of a heroine. Then came Madonna’s “Drowned” World Tour and I took one look at the costumes and silhouettes—and of course the corsets—by Jean Paul Gaultier, and I knew. I went home and started to draw. It totally threw my parents off because after ten years of talking about film I turned around and told them it was going to be fashion.
What happened once you arrived in Paris?
I attended the Chambre Syndicale, and I figured that since Gaultier was my inspiration my first internship should be there. It’s very complicated to get an internship there, so I knocked on all the doors I could, and then I hand-embroidered a letter on a corset that I made out of python and painted. It took my whole summer vacation—the corset, the packaging, everything. Mr. Gaultier never saw it, but his assistants did. It made the rounds in-house and that’s how I got my internship in the accessories department.
You also interned at Christian Dior and Balenciaga. What were the takeaways there?
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