55 posts tagged "Hedi Slimane"
Thanks to the tastemaking powers of Nicolas Ghesquière and Gaia Repossi, five-fingered rings and tough ear cuffs have been all the rage for the past year or so. But judging from the recent Resort collections, the new jewelry must-have is a chunky chain. We spied statement-making metal necklaces that were equal parts punk and hip-hop bling at Chanel, Bottega Veneta, Givenchy, and Lanvin, among others. Jenni Kayne, for her part, piled on the gold strands for an extra dose of swag (let’s just say that Jay-Z himself would be jealous), while Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, Bouchra Jarrar, and Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent incorporated gleaming links as accents on their clothes. In addition to Rihanna, whose Céline ID choker has been in heavy rotation for some time now, cool girls such as Caroline de Maigret have taken a new liking to heavy-duty chokers. We’re betting they’ll be street-style status symbols at the Spring ’14 shows.
Style Map contributor Kazumi Asamura Hayashi runs The Last Gallery in Tokyo and is editor in chief of the magazine Libertin Dune. Today she’s posting her first Style Map update, giving readers a behind-the-scenes view of the extraordinary Araki shoot of Butoh dancers that is one of the new Libertin Dune covers. “It’s based on the imagery shot by Araki for Dairakudakan’s fortieth-anniversary show,” Hayashi told me, referring to the legendary Butoh company, Dairakudakan. “We asked him to reshoot the dancers in the Saint Laurent Paris looks by Hedi Slimane.” Hayashi went on to say that the conceptual link between Slimane and Dairakudakan founder Akaji Maro was their mutual interest in simultaneously honoring tradition, and reinventing it. “The essence of tradition is inheritance,” Hayashi pointed out. “An overemphasis on ‘protecting’ the past can reduce any hope for the future.” Here, Hayashi gives us another peek behind-the-scenes of the shoot.
Perhaps it was The Great Gatsby‘s influence, but there was a lot of pink on the Spring ’14 menswear catwalks. However, while Jay Gatsby favored rosebud three-piece suits, designers this season employed the hue for their footwear.
In London, Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff showed Crayola-pink rain boots in their eponymous collection. The boys added some of their signature kitsch by printing grinning Cheshire cat-like faces on the toes. Similarly, Tom Ford paired one of his bright, slim, dandyish looks with magenta tiger-striped slippers.
Further down the circuit, Raf Simons used pink banding across boots at his own label, while Hedi Slimane whipped up pointy-toed rockabilly booties in Barbie blush at Saint Laurent. Antwerpen provocateur Walter Van Beirendonck rounds out the bunch, having embellished his folk-inspired wingtips with roseate phalli. The kicks lent new credence to the term “foot fetish.”
Worn by cowboys, bandits, protesters, punks, and hip-hoppers alike, bandannas have earned a rebellious rep over the years. This summer, fashion has latched onto the rule-breaking look. Perennial street-style favorite Hanne Gaby Odiele pioneered the trend back in February, when she was snapped sporting a standard-issue black kerchief on multiple occasions in Paris. Since then, designers have taken up hankies, too. Andreas Melbostad’s recent Resort collection for Diesel Black Gold included a graphic black-and-white print that resembled, as he put it, an “aggressive bandanna.” And at the menswear shows at the end of last month, Kim Jones featured the classic paisley motif in his Louis Vuitton lineup, while Hedi Slimane sent models rocking rockabilly red scarves down the Saint Laurent runway. They were big with the street-style set, too.
As the Spring ’14 menswear collections wrapped in Paris over the weekend, a number of designers showed hyper-luxe takes on a bold wardrobe staple: the all-black leather trenchcoat.
Thom Browne‘s exercise in militaristic flamboyance offered a skirted patent-leather coat cut snug at the waist, trimmed with epaulets, and finished with heavy hardware. Hedi Slimane turned out a greased-up, banged-up iteration in one of his signature slim cuts at Saint Laurent. And lastly, Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver delivered a supple, wide-collared option at Lanvin. While Elbaz said there was “nothing techno or digital” about the lineup, one can’t deny that this piece recalled Keanu Reeves’ iconic look from cinema’s ultimate cyber film: The Matrix.