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August 29 2014

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62 posts tagged "Hedi Slimane"

Lip Service

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Spring '14 lips

Pucker up, kiddos. Smooches abounded on the Spring ’14 runways, making their mark everywhere from Peter Jensen, where frocks and tops were covered with photo-realistic lips, to Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, who crafted a pair of sunglasses with gilded gobs for lenses. The gap-toothed pink and purple pouts that appeared on a series of looks at Giles Deacon were rumored to be an ode to stylist Katie Grand’s grin. Meanwhile, Saint Laurent‘s Hedi Slimane doused an 80s-tinged ruffle top and short black wrap dress with an allover rouge lip print. Inspired by Yves Saint Laurent’s 1971 Vichy Chic collection, the smackers were a somewhat surprising embrace of the house’s history. Tucker’s Gaby Basora employed the motif, too. The New York-based designer collaborated with Solange Azagury-Partridge—best known for her “Hot Lips” baubles—on rosebud blouses and dresses strewn with fuchsia kissers.

If mouthy accessories are more your taste, look no further than Yaz Bukey’s Spring ’14 range. The designer served up a patent cherry bouche bag—as well as a pair of lipstick-shaped earrings for touch-ups. And even on the street, showgoers were donning mouth-embellished duds. Tommy Ton snapped one femme in Paris wearing surreal black driving gloves fit for Dali—the wrists sealed with two bright red kisses.

Rocker Liza Thorn Is Fashion’s “High Priestess”

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Liza Thorn Somewhere between psychedelic, street, and old-school grunge lies High Priestess, a collaborative limited-edition capsule from Lindsey Thornburg (a bohemian New York designer known for her sumptuous cloaks) and streetwear label Obesity and Speed’s Lyz Olko. “We’ve known each other a really really long time,” said Olko about her partner in sartorial crime, adding that it dawned upon them to collaborate while sitting around a bonfire at a friend’s wedding in Santa Barbara earlier this year. “We have really similar aesthetics and this was the perfect merging of our styles. I guess she’s a little more ‘witchy’ and I’m a little more ‘urban street,’ but together, it really works.”

The resulting range comprises hand-shredded denim shorts and jackets, destroyed T-shirts and tanks, printed “Don’t Exist” tops that have been dipped in water so the lettering runs (one of Olko’s favorites), and a raw silk bomber jacket with “High Priestess” embroidered across the back. “We just thought it made sense,” explained Olko when asked about the title. “It’s definitely kind of trippy, but at the same time, it’s super feminine and regal.”

Liza Thorn

And who better to represent this gritty queen than Starred’s front woman (and Hedi Slimane muse-cum-campaign face) Liza Thorn? “Her voice is like a saint’s, and she’s hypnotic in a way—her personality and her music really suit the capsule, and she’s super seventies hippie rock ‘n’ roll,” said Olko, who met the musician a while back through her pal, the Misshapes’ Greg Krelenstein. “Since we were already friends, I called her up and told her that she’d be perfect for this collaboration and she was like, ‘I’m so down,’” recalled Olko. “And then she said, ‘Actually, randomly, I just shot this Saint Laurent thing for Hedi [Slimane], too.’ And I was like whoa, that’s crazy! That’s a big deal. That’s like, huge.”

The girls didn’t let it go to their heads, though. According to Olko, the shoot, which was lensed by her old friend Jason Nocito, was laid-back, and largely styled by Thorn. “Nothing was pre-planned. We all just hung out in the dressing room and it worked out beautifully,” said Olko. The images debut exclusively here. As for the collection (priced between $70 and $395 and hitting stores like OAK, bonadrag.com, and American Two Shot, as well as obesityandspeed.com and lindseythornburg.com, the first week of September), Olko offered, “This is one of my favorite things that I’ve done so far. And I hope people get that there’s a story behind everything that we made. It’s not just a T-shirt. It’s more than that.”

Photo: Jason Nocito

Chunky Necklaces Are at the Top of the Fashion Food Chain

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Chains at ChanelThanks to the tastemaking powers of Nicolas Ghesquière and Gaia Repossi, five-fingered rings and tough ear cuffs have been all the rage for the past year or so. But judging from the recent Resort collections, the new jewelry must-have is a chunky chain. We spied statement-making metal necklaces that were equal parts punk and hip-hop bling at Chanel, Bottega Veneta, Givenchy, and Lanvin, among others. Jenni Kayne, for her part, piled on the gold strands for an extra dose of swag (let’s just say that Jay-Z himself would be jealous), while Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, Bouchra Jarrar, and Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent incorporated gleaming links as accents on their clothes. In addition to Rihanna, whose Céline ID choker has been in heavy rotation for some time now, cool girls such as Caroline de Maigret have taken a new liking to heavy-duty chokers. We’re betting they’ll be street-style status symbols at the Spring ’14 shows.

Here, a slide show of our favorite chains.

Libertin Dune Looks to the Future With Saint Laurent

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Libertin Dune's new cover

Style Map contributor Kazumi Asamura Hayashi runs The Last Gallery in Tokyo and is editor in chief of the magazine Libertin Dune. Today she’s posting her first Style Map update, giving readers a behind-the-scenes view of the extraordinary Araki shoot of Butoh dancers that is one of the new Libertin Dune covers. “It’s based on the imagery shot by Araki for Dairakudakan’s fortieth-anniversary show,” Hayashi told me, referring to the legendary Butoh company, Dairakudakan. “We asked him to reshoot the dancers in the Saint Laurent Paris looks by Hedi Slimane.” Hayashi went on to say that the conceptual link between Slimane and Dairakudakan founder Akaji Maro was their mutual interest in simultaneously honoring tradition, and reinventing it. “The essence of tradition is inheritance,” Hayashi pointed out. “An overemphasis on ‘protecting’ the past can reduce any hope for the future.” Here, Hayashi gives us another peek behind-the-scenes of the shoot.

Behind the scenes of Libertin Dune's cover shoot

Pinkie Toes

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Pink shoes from Saint Laurent, Walter Van Beirendonck, and Meadham KirchhoffPerhaps it was The Great Gatsby‘s influence, but there was a lot of pink on the Spring ’14 menswear catwalks. However, while Jay Gatsby favored rosebud three-piece suits, designers this season employed the hue for their footwear.

In London, Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff showed Crayola-pink rain boots in their eponymous collection. The boys added some of their signature kitsch by printing grinning Cheshire cat-like faces on the toes. Similarly, Tom Ford paired one of his bright, slim, dandyish looks with magenta tiger-striped slippers.

Further down the circuit, Raf Simons used pink banding across boots at his own label, while Hedi Slimane whipped up pointy-toed rockabilly booties in Barbie blush at Saint Laurent. Antwerpen provocateur Walter Van Beirendonck rounds out the bunch, having embellished his folk-inspired wingtips with roseate phalli. The kicks lent new credence to the term “foot fetish.”

Photos: Yannis Vlamos/ InDigital/ GoRunway (Saint Laurent); Filippo Fior/ InDigital/ GoRunway (Walter Van Beirendonck); Courtesy of Meadham Kirchhoff