37 posts tagged "Helmut Lang"
In our new Throwback Thursdays video, Tim Blanks remembers Helmut Lang’s Spring 2005 show, a collection that wound up being the Austrian designer’s last for the label he founded. In the clip, Blanks calls Lang “the master of minimalism—possibly the most influential designer of his time, because what he did was such a clear reaction to what had come before. He changed the way clothes looked. He changed the way shows and models looked.” Now, nearly 10 years later, Lang remains a touchstone for a new generation of designers, who look to develop and interpret his ideas in the same way that a previous generation looked to the work of Yves Saint Laurent.
Watch the Throwback Thursday video with Tim Blanks here.
Today, after eight years at the house’s creative helm, Michael and Nicole Colovos have stepped down from their post at Helmut Lang, Style.com has learned. The husband-and-wife team, who presented a critically acclaimed Fall ’14 collection in New York just weeks ago, helped to rebrand Helmut Lang as a contemporary label after its namesake designer’s departure in 2005. The new creative leadership of the brand will be announced in the coming months. “I want to extend my sincere thanks to Michael and Nicole for their commitment to the house and its successful evolution into a leading force in the contemporary marketplace. I am confident in their future and wish them all the best,” said Andrew Rosen, CEO of Helmut Lang’s parent company, Link Theory Holdings, in a statement. The split was apparently a simple, clean break. “We are grateful for the opportunity that Andrew gave us to reestablish Helmut Lang. We will always have a deep affection for the brand,” offered the designers. There is no news yet of the couple’s plans. The Resort ’15 collection will be developed by Helmut Lang’s existing design team.
Scanning back through recent seasons, the runways have sometime looked like an episode of VH1′s I Love the ’90s. Think of the grunge revivals at Dries Van Noten and Saint Laurent, or the catwalk comebacks of Carolyn Murphy and Kirsten Owen. We’ve also seen designers return to logomania, crop tops, and overalls. But the nineties throwback that feels most modern to us is the slipdress—the clean, minimal lines of which recall the glory days of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy and a young Kate Moss. For Spring, everyone from Stella McCartney and Isabel Marant to Jason Wu and Wes Gordon put their respective spin on the streamlined look. Keeping with that theme, Donna Karan celebrated the twenty-fifth anniversary of DKNY by revisiting the slinky, low-backed “naked dress” made infamous by the character Carrie Bradshaw on Sex and the City.
Stripes are relatively de rigueur in fashion. But they’re most often seen in a horizontal orientation. Such is not the case with Resort ’14. A crop of designers have printed vertical lines down, down, down their silhouettes, adding both height and graphic pop along the way.
Vera Wang showed a number of daytime outfits with various takes on referee stripes, offering simple black and white repetitions, which were offset nicely by banded waists and lace panels. Helmut Lang‘s Michael and Nicole Colovos, too, procured a sharp T-shirt dress with abstract grayscale striations.
Yet the most alluring banding occurred when designers went for full-length looks. Gucci‘s Frida Giannini offered a brilliant pajama suit, if you will, composed of ocher, saffron, cinnamon, and chestnut stripes in alternating widths (above, center). Narciso Rodriguez showed a daring mod-meets-modern striped strapless dress over white boot-cut pants (above, left), and the ever-original Thom Browne showed inside-out garments, many of which were lined with longitudinal strips in preppy hues (above, right). The takeaway? Tall girls will look very, very good in Thom.
Hedi Slimane’s latest brick in the rebuilt house of Saint Laurent is now in place: As of this afternoon, the label’s first downtown store is open on Soho’s Greene Street. Saint Laurent (né Yves) has long had a presence on East 57th Street, which it maintains, but under Slimane, the direction has gone decidedly, as the marketers say, “downtown.” As one on-message Saint Laurent exec said, shrugging, at a preview this morning: “Some of my friends don’t ever make it as far as 57th Street.”
Soho feels right for the new Saint Laurent, and the 4,000-square-foot space has the look and feel of an open-plan photo studio—all light and space and monitors displaying Slimane’s campaigns—with many original details intact, from the tin ceiling to the structural columns. (The store sits in the Soho-Cast Iron Historic District, and if you believe in retail mojo, was Helmut Lang’s New York outpost in the good old days.) Bags and shoes line the marble shelves on the walls: mostly new standards like the Duffle, the Sac de Jour, and the Betty, but with a few best-selling leftovers from earlier days, too, such as the Cabas Chyc bag and the Tribute and Trib Too heels. Slimane himself picked the high-minded vintage furniture that decks out the space (by Jean Prouvé, Marcel Breuer, et al.), customized the playlist (Richard Hell and Nirvana as of this morning), and designed all the fixtures. I can personally vouch that his new collections hang on them, despite their absence above. They include not only the Spring line but select previews of pre-fall available for pre-order, which tend toward the unstintingly luxurious. For men, there are the sequined jackets worn by Daft Punk in Slimane’s photos; for women, the embellished baby-doll dress worn by Cara Delevingne in the new ad campaign. It will run you a cool $68,000. But as spaces to consider such a life-altering purchase go, the new store is very good.
Saint Laurent Paris is now open at 80 Greene Street, NYC, ysl.com.