35 posts tagged "Helmut Lang"
Scanning back through recent seasons, the runways have sometime looked like an episode of VH1′s I Love the ’90s. Think of the grunge revivals at Dries Van Noten and Saint Laurent, or the catwalk comebacks of Carolyn Murphy and Kirsten Owen. We’ve also seen designers return to logomania, crop tops, and overalls. But the nineties throwback that feels most modern to us is the slipdress—the clean, minimal lines of which recall the glory days of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy and a young Kate Moss. For Spring, everyone from Stella McCartney and Isabel Marant to Jason Wu and Wes Gordon put their respective spin on the streamlined look. Keeping with that theme, Donna Karan celebrated the twenty-fifth anniversary of DKNY by revisiting the slinky, low-backed “naked dress” made infamous by the character Carrie Bradshaw on Sex and the City.
Stripes are relatively de rigueur in fashion. But they’re most often seen in a horizontal orientation. Such is not the case with Resort ’14. A crop of designers have printed vertical lines down, down, down their silhouettes, adding both height and graphic pop along the way.
Vera Wang showed a number of daytime outfits with various takes on referee stripes, offering simple black and white repetitions, which were offset nicely by banded waists and lace panels. Helmut Lang‘s Michael and Nicole Colovos, too, procured a sharp T-shirt dress with abstract grayscale striations.
Yet the most alluring banding occurred when designers went for full-length looks. Gucci‘s Frida Giannini offered a brilliant pajama suit, if you will, composed of ocher, saffron, cinnamon, and chestnut stripes in alternating widths (above, center). Narciso Rodriguez showed a daring mod-meets-modern striped strapless dress over white boot-cut pants (above, left), and the ever-original Thom Browne showed inside-out garments, many of which were lined with longitudinal strips in preppy hues (above, right). The takeaway? Tall girls will look very, very good in Thom.
Hedi Slimane’s latest brick in the rebuilt house of Saint Laurent is now in place: As of this afternoon, the label’s first downtown store is open on Soho’s Greene Street. Saint Laurent (né Yves) has long had a presence on East 57th Street, which it maintains, but under Slimane, the direction has gone decidedly, as the marketers say, “downtown.” As one on-message Saint Laurent exec said, shrugging, at a preview this morning: “Some of my friends don’t ever make it as far as 57th Street.”
Soho feels right for the new Saint Laurent, and the 4,000-square-foot space has the look and feel of an open-plan photo studio—all light and space and monitors displaying Slimane’s campaigns—with many original details intact, from the tin ceiling to the structural columns. (The store sits in the Soho-Cast Iron Historic District, and if you believe in retail mojo, was Helmut Lang’s New York outpost in the good old days.) Bags and shoes line the marble shelves on the walls: mostly new standards like the Duffle, the Sac de Jour, and the Betty, but with a few best-selling leftovers from earlier days, too, such as the Cabas Chyc bag and the Tribute and Trib Too heels. Slimane himself picked the high-minded vintage furniture that decks out the space (by Jean Prouvé, Marcel Breuer, et al.), customized the playlist (Richard Hell and Nirvana as of this morning), and designed all the fixtures. I can personally vouch that his new collections hang on them, despite their absence above. They include not only the Spring line but select previews of pre-fall available for pre-order, which tend toward the unstintingly luxurious. For men, there are the sequined jackets worn by Daft Punk in Slimane’s photos; for women, the embellished baby-doll dress worn by Cara Delevingne in the new ad campaign. It will run you a cool $68,000. But as spaces to consider such a life-altering purchase go, the new store is very good.
Saint Laurent Paris is now open at 80 Greene Street, NYC, ysl.com.
FNO may be a thing of the past, but Diane von Furstenberg and Theory’s Andrew Rosen have appropriated the shop-till-you-drop evening fund-raising technique for their own philanthropic purposes. On March 18, the pair will host the first annual Open Market—an event that will bring music (DJ sets from the Misshapes, Nancy, JD Samson), food, cocktails, and fashion (sample sales from Alice + Olivia, Helmut Lang, Honor, Theory, DVF herself, and more) together to benefit the Meatpacking District Improvement Association. Set under one roof at the Highline Stages, the fund-raiser will be a “visual homage” to the vintage MePa days. We hope they don’t take the theme too literally, though.
To purchase tickets, visit meatpackingopenmarket.eventbrite.com. All ticket proceeds will go to the MPIA.
Question: Where do models go during NYFW when they’re not stomping the catwalk? Answer: Modellounge x Microsoft. When the shows come to town, fashion’s leading ladies have to zip around from one runway, casting, or fitting to the next. But for those odd momenta of downtime, Modellounge x Microsoft offers girls from the top ten agencies a place to relax and regroup. This season, more than 400 models—ranging from newcomers like Natasha Remarchuk and Leona “Binx” Walton to established girls like Arizona Muse, Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, and Liu Wen—stopped by Modellounge each day. In addition to offering snacks and free Wi-Fi (plus access to Surface tablets), the Union Square-based lounge hosted a bevy of events, like a panel discussion with casting director Jennifer Starr, a runway-walking class, and a talk with Coco Rocha about the importance of social media and self-branding. The veritable model haven even provided catwalkers with backup wardrobes; founder Bernard Smith (who also happens to be Joan Smalls’s long-term boyfriend) partnered up with Helmut Lang to create a Model Closet from which girls could borrow clothes for go-sees, street-style looks, and events. He described one afternoon when Ms. Rocha made a pit stop with actress Isabelle Fuhrman: “They were running late for a show, and Isabelle needed something chic to wear last-minute, so we let Coco style her with the clothes—the perks of having model friends.”