38 posts tagged "Helmut Lang"
Hedi Slimane’s latest brick in the rebuilt house of Saint Laurent is now in place: As of this afternoon, the label’s first downtown store is open on Soho’s Greene Street. Saint Laurent (né Yves) has long had a presence on East 57th Street, which it maintains, but under Slimane, the direction has gone decidedly, as the marketers say, “downtown.” As one on-message Saint Laurent exec said, shrugging, at a preview this morning: “Some of my friends don’t ever make it as far as 57th Street.”
Soho feels right for the new Saint Laurent, and the 4,000-square-foot space has the look and feel of an open-plan photo studio—all light and space and monitors displaying Slimane’s campaigns—with many original details intact, from the tin ceiling to the structural columns. (The store sits in the Soho-Cast Iron Historic District, and if you believe in retail mojo, was Helmut Lang’s New York outpost in the good old days.) Bags and shoes line the marble shelves on the walls: mostly new standards like the Duffle, the Sac de Jour, and the Betty, but with a few best-selling leftovers from earlier days, too, such as the Cabas Chyc bag and the Tribute and Trib Too heels. Slimane himself picked the high-minded vintage furniture that decks out the space (by Jean Prouvé, Marcel Breuer, et al.), customized the playlist (Richard Hell and Nirvana as of this morning), and designed all the fixtures. I can personally vouch that his new collections hang on them, despite their absence above. They include not only the Spring line but select previews of pre-fall available for pre-order, which tend toward the unstintingly luxurious. For men, there are the sequined jackets worn by Daft Punk in Slimane’s photos; for women, the embellished baby-doll dress worn by Cara Delevingne in the new ad campaign. It will run you a cool $68,000. But as spaces to consider such a life-altering purchase go, the new store is very good.
Saint Laurent Paris is now open at 80 Greene Street, NYC, ysl.com.
FNO may be a thing of the past, but Diane von Furstenberg and Theory’s Andrew Rosen have appropriated the shop-till-you-drop evening fund-raising technique for their own philanthropic purposes. On March 18, the pair will host the first annual Open Market—an event that will bring music (DJ sets from the Misshapes, Nancy, JD Samson), food, cocktails, and fashion (sample sales from Alice + Olivia, Helmut Lang, Honor, Theory, DVF herself, and more) together to benefit the Meatpacking District Improvement Association. Set under one roof at the Highline Stages, the fund-raiser will be a “visual homage” to the vintage MePa days. We hope they don’t take the theme too literally, though.
To purchase tickets, visit meatpackingopenmarket.eventbrite.com. All ticket proceeds will go to the MPIA.
Question: Where do models go during NYFW when they’re not stomping the catwalk? Answer: Modellounge x Microsoft. When the shows come to town, fashion’s leading ladies have to zip around from one runway, casting, or fitting to the next. But for those odd momenta of downtime, Modellounge x Microsoft offers girls from the top ten agencies a place to relax and regroup. This season, more than 400 models—ranging from newcomers like Natasha Remarchuk and Leona “Binx” Walton to established girls like Arizona Muse, Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, and Liu Wen—stopped by Modellounge each day. In addition to offering snacks and free Wi-Fi (plus access to Surface tablets), the Union Square-based lounge hosted a bevy of events, like a panel discussion with casting director Jennifer Starr, a runway-walking class, and a talk with Coco Rocha about the importance of social media and self-branding. The veritable model haven even provided catwalkers with backup wardrobes; founder Bernard Smith (who also happens to be Joan Smalls’s long-term boyfriend) partnered up with Helmut Lang to create a Model Closet from which girls could borrow clothes for go-sees, street-style looks, and events. He described one afternoon when Ms. Rocha made a pit stop with actress Isabelle Fuhrman: “They were running late for a show, and Isabelle needed something chic to wear last-minute, so we let Coco style her with the clothes—the perks of having model friends.”
Considering model Ava Smith is a Chicago native, one might assume that she’s experienced her fair share of the Windy City’s blistering snowstorms. Thus, the girl knows how to bundle. During a cold Paris day last fashion week, Smith piled on the layers without sacrificing her off-duty style. Photographer Vanessa Jackman snapped a picture of her after the Kenzo show wearing an oversized knit sweater coat with a colorful scarf and a red bag. Here in New York, winter is just getting started (sigh), so take a cue from Ava and recreate her look with the essentials below.
From top left, below:
1. Etoile Isabel Marant cardigan, $605, available at www.matchesfashion.com
2. Burberry Prorsum scarf, $557, available at www.mytheresa.com
3. Helmut Lang sweater, $370, available at www.bergdorfgoodman.com
4. Marc Jacobs ‘Lola’ satchel, $1,495, available at www.shop.nordstrom.com
On a much-buzzed-about corridor of Melrose Avenue, where labels like Marc by Marc Jacobs, Diane von Furstenberg and Helmut Lang have all opened boutiques, a retail resurgence has begun. This Tuesday, Joie’s L.A. flagship joins the fray. The label is undertaking a major rollout—in addition to L.A., a Soho shop has just opened in New York, with a Meatpacking District branch and a San Francisco outpost on the way. Still, says creative director Serge Azria, “each store embodies the true feel of the brand: effortlessly chic yet casual.” Who do you call for that? Ryan Korban, the designer whose credits include Alexander Wang’s store and showroom and New York’s Edon Manor. Korban’s vision translated into a Parisian apartment that’s been sun-kissed by SoCal—an apartment, that is, that’s 1,640 square feet large, with herringbone floors and washed gray moldings. “L.A. has always been a big part of the Joie environment—even before we opened on the West Coast,” Korban explained. “Because it is such a large part of the brand, it has always come through in the design, even when we were doing New York stores.” Although New Yorkers are famously wary of all things L.A, we haven’t heard any complaints.
Joie is now open at 8414 Melrose Ave., L.A., (323) 330-1255.