35 posts tagged "Helmut Lang"
Alessandro Dell’Acqua may have been happy with the designs for his men’s and women’s Spring 2010 lines, but he is not pleased with the final product. The designer has issued a letter distancing himself from his distribution company, noting that the quality of the collections is not up to his standards. When we called for comment, Dell’Acqua declined to discuss the matter. Is he the industry’s next Hervé Léger or Helmut Lang—a designer who doesn’t own his name? [FWD]
Just as boys will be boys, fashion designers will be fashion designers. So while Marc Jacobs surprised us all by showing up in actual pants, Swarovski Womenswear Designer winner Alexander Wang mixed things up with a formal shorts look. Piece by piece, Wang’s tidy look actually consisted of black cotton-sateen Comme des Garçons shorts, a white Band of Outsiders oxford and a black vintage Helmut Lang tux jacket. (Wasn’t he in high school when Helmut was still helming his eponymous house? ) “It’s for me to feel comfortable,” explained Wang backstage. “I always feel awkward in a full get-up. You’ve got to break it up a little.” Of course, when his name was announced, Wang realized that his gentlemanly gesture of lending his jacket to his date might get him in trouble, but he wriggled it back on just in time to accept his award on stage.
Joseph Altuzarra’s résumé may be short, but it packs a solid one-two-three punch: six-month internship at Marc Jacobs, freelance design assistant for Proenza Schouler, and former assistant to New York’s premier modéliste Nicolas Caito. That’s the CV in a nutshell, which all leads up to part four: designer for his eponymous line launched for Spring 2009. Given his pedigree, it should come as no surprise that Altuzarra’s name has emerged as fashion’s new one to know. Yet the designer himself is still nonplussed by the attention. “I never planned to work in fashion,” explains Altuzarra, who was born and raised in France and moved to the U.S. to study at Swarthmore. “I was an art history major who sent his résumé to Marc Jacobs on a whim. I feel like I’ve spent the past few years playing catch-up, learning what goes into making a dress.” Continue Reading “Joseph Altuzarra: A Reason To Look Forward To Fashion Week” »
I can’t remember exactly how or when I first heard the phrase “shop your closet” (it was relatively recently), but it’s becoming an increasingly common part of my fashion writerly patois. The expression refers to the practice of diving deep into your closet, storage space, or perhaps parents’ basement to uncover your own fabulous clothing from seasons past—so long past, in fact, that they somehow feel new. It was the subject of Bill Cunningham’s “On the Street” audio slideshow yesterday titled “The Keepers.” (If you haven’t experienced one of these, I suggest doing so soon. You’ll fall into deeper love with the O.S.—Original Sartorialist, natch.) Cunningham tracked one woman who dug into her expansive armoire and revived a series of fabulous coats. She was clearly once a world-class shopper—which seems to be a necessity in making this a successful phenomenon. But we all probably have something hidden away that deserves to see the light of day. I, for one, have a black Helmut Lang coat from 2002 with a knit hood (pictured here on a fresh-faced young girl named Erin Wasson) that’s both superwarm and chic and makes me wonder why I ever put it away. Actually, those old Helmut goodies really stand the test of time. My closet “purchases” so far also include a fantastic slouchy pair of Helmut Lang pants that I tweaked slightly, having my tailor cuff them to an slightly more au courant above the ankle length. And a taupe wool double-breasted Louis Vuitton coat from 2000 that was an assistant-era splurge may well show up in 2009, too. What are you going to “buy” from your closet? Tell us what you think is worthy of revival—and what no one should bother dusting off.
For his legion of fans, the day that Helmut Lang hung up his designer’s hat was one of fashion’s saddest. If you get to Berlin by October 11, however, you can take a trip down memory lane, with the first-ever exhibition of Lang’s digitized archive in 032c’s Museum Store. Three thousand of the 10,000 items that have been photographed were spliced into a video, documenting how his design aesthetic evolved over a nearly 20-year career. The effort is just one aspect of what Lang has been up to since stepping down in 2005—last month saw the opening of his first institutional solo art exhibition, Alles Gleich Schwer, at Hannover’s Kestnergesellschaft, another reason to make a pilgrimage to Germany this fall to bear witness to one of the world’s most moving minimalists.